Michael Pilgrim

I'm buying a ek hatchback with a b18c with low compression eagle piston rods & rings. It's not sleeved I don't plan on doing it either. He had turbonetics t3t4 kit on it he blew the turbo. So I want it to be dd and make around300whp maybe more. The head is stock it has 1000cc fuel injectors as well as a fuel rail and pump. Stock ecu I'm planning on putting a t3t4 57 trim. Plus build the head with cams springs valves retainers. Plus a stage 2 clutch. Realistically what else do I need to make the hp I want and reliable the compression ratio is 8 to 1. What amount of boost is safe for a mild tune.

king06

iTrader: (1)

People are going to tell you NOT to buy it, "never buy somebodies project". Although most of the time it's cheaper than to build it yourself, we're all adults and make our own decisions.

With that being said, before you buy it do a compression test and leak down test. It will show you how the engine is doing and if it will withstand being turbo. 8:1 is extremely low by today's standards. Putting spring and retainers is definitely a good idea, I would still use OEM valves if possible. You're also going to need something to tune it with and a GOOD tuner. Find a tuner you like/trust/reputable and ask what they like to use and go with that.

jayswizz

start reading, all these questions have already been asked. buying someones hack job ek WILL save you money in parts but sometimes can cost you more time and money in the long run, especially if this is your first rodeo, which it sounds like it is. if 300hp is your goal then you dont have to do much. its not boost that you have to worry about, its your pwr level.a bone stock gsr will do 300 no problem. also a stock map sensor is only good to like 10 or 11 psi so keep that in mind when going to get tuned

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

"Amount of boost" means nothing. PSI means nothing. It's a means to an end. Forget about it as a metric - it doesn't apply to you. 8:1 for a DD is going to suck. Your gas mileage is going to suck. Your power outside of boost is going to suck. "Stage 2 clutch" means nothing. One company's stage 2 is another's stage 6 is another's stock replacement. Look at torque capacities. If the clutch isn't rated by a torque capacity, it's a shitty clutch. Your stock ECU isn't going to get you anywhere, at all.

king06

iTrader: (1)

Forgot about the clutch part lol. Stay away from ebay brands, some people have had luck, but I didn't. Look into comp clutch, it's cheap and gets the job done. Also, like notaracist said, forget about boost levels.

blackeg

i like my comp clutch a LOT more than the act clutches I used to run.

give the motor a compression and leakdown test as mentioned. with 8:1 you may only see 150-170 psi just make sure its even. look for oil on the piston tops, silver "clean" specs among the carbon on the piston top, and silver or black flakes on the porcelain part of the spark plug. the deeper into the plug you find them the more load the motor was detonating at if it was at all...


and yea, 8:1 is low, but it can be slightly compensated for by additional ignition timing. that should be done on a dyno and/or by an experienced tuner. you also want that aftermarket map sensor, so you can set the boost cut and not be on the edge of the sensors capability.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I ran a Competition Clutch, their 6 puck sprung on my boosted D. Loved that little ******. Felt great for daily driving, even in traffic, but didn't hesitate to hold the power when I went foot down, even through third and fourth gears.

Michael Pilgrim

Well it's my 2nd rodeo but my first time going turbo. The car I'm buying is from my good friend. I know the mechanics that built the motor from import auto pros. He cut no corners when building the motor it's ****. The only reason I want it because I know how well the motor was built. The compression ratio is actually 9 to 1. I'm actually aiming for more 350 to 400 HP. What turbo would you recommend. Also what other parts would you recommend to help me reach the goal. Only reason I mentioned the clutch is because the stock one needs to be replaced. I also would like some insight on traction. The motor is a b18c and b16 tranny. It has been treated like a baby he is only selling it due to money issues and he can't put the money he needs to make it a street beast. I actually found out it has a fuel pump, injecters,fuel rail. It also has a intake manifold, as well as a throttle body. I'm planning on putting the turbo on and maybe a better wastegate maybe ram horns as well as bigger down pipe. It already has a mugen exhaust all the way back. I don't want a turbo timer or boost controller. No gauges down here in oc ca the cops will ref you in a sec. But then again the front mount intercooler isn't very sleeper. So I might change my mind. I'm going to have the same mechanics that built it finish it and dyno it. I was thinking of 10 to 12 psi. So if anyone has anymore insight on a good turbo and any other parts they would recommend I would appreciate they're recommendations.

Michael Pilgrim

If it was a hack job I wouldn't even be interested. My boy that built it has a eg running 8.98s at the track. So he knows what's up. He is going to do the work and tune. He owns a shop and is going to give me parts for cost pretty much.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

ARK STB. Look it up, check it out, buy it. Turbo timers are a good thing, and the STB is easily hidden where any OEM switch would go. I can also say, from personal experience, that ARK makes great stuff - I had their turbo timer and boost controller in my old turbo D (the two fit perfectly inside a 6G's cluster bezel). I'm not sure what makes you think a boost controller requires a gauge - it doesn't, and you'll need one to get to your power goals. And wait, you live in CA? How exactly do you plan on getting the car BAR/CARB legal in the first place? You can't tune an OBD2 ECU, and an OBD1 or standalone would be an instant fail.

Michael Pilgrim

I know a boost controller doesn't require a gauge. I just would like to see my boost levels my oil pressure.

Michael Pilgrim

My mechanic has a guy who smogs cars illegally for 250 cash.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Everyone around here slips the smog ref some extra dough to pass their cars. The CA struggle...