G-Phi

Well, first off let me explain my current set up. I just got my motor built:

-- GSR Motor, stock GSR cams and stock cam gears, 83mm bore with Arias 9-5-1 compression
forged pistons, sleeved, titanium springs, valves and retainers.
-- Rev Hard turbo kit with t3/t04E Precision turbo
-- 550 Injectors
-- MSD Sport Compact Ignition and SS Blaster Coil
-- Eddlebrock Victor X intake manifold
-- Hondata s200 tuned

Before my current set up, I made 260hp with 191 torque on 11-12lbs of boost on the dyno when my motor was tuned **bone stock**. Then it had only the 550 injectors and the hondata s200 .

Now, I just got it tuned last week Friday and I made 250hp with 181 torque on 11-12lbs of boost.

That's 10hp less and also less in torque.

I was expecting to make at least around 300hp at 12lbs of boost but that's not the case.



What could be wrong? Why am I not making the power I should be making??

I am open to your opinions and suggestions.

Thanks!

92cxturbo

Going from 10.2:1 compression to 9.5:1 on the same boost level and turbo is gonna make less power. if you put some itr/ctr cams you would probally make more then 260 at that boost level, and then CRANK the boost up!

urbansi

Whats the differnce in timing if any.
Are the AFR's the same
Same redline? you can rev higher with that valvetrain
Same tuner? Same dyno?
get a 3-bar and raise the boost.
Has anything changed. Example-exhaust, plugs, are you burning oil, does the turbo have any shaft play.
Try getting some cam gears also

G-Phi

Would itr cams be the best way to go over skunk or others??

mec. pedri

iTrader: (1)

WITH A VERY SIMILAR SETUP I MADE 332HP @ 11 PSI AT DRT IN NY. A/F RATIO WAS SET TO 12.0:1 UPON MY REQUEST.


81.5 MM BORE LS\VTEC WITH GSR HEAD T3/T04E MOTOR EVENTUALLY MADE 457 HP WITH DRT TUNING @ 22 PSI WITH A T3/T4 60-1. MOTOR LASTED FOREVER UNDER SERIOUS ABUSE

G-Phi

The timing is the same to my knowledge.

I got it re-tuned with the same tuner on same dyno
My AFR is fine.
My redline is 8200
Exhaust downpipe is the same 2.5in but now I have 3inch piping from the resonator back and 3inch turbo exhaust
NGK spark plugs, which I had before
Not burning oil
and no shaft play to my knowledge.

Oh, and I do have a 3 bar map sensor. It won't get installed until I get a couple other things, like cams and then re-tuned.




Modified by G-Phi at 11:55 AM 2/20/2006

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Were there any cam gear adjustments made?

Also was the MSD ignition on there with the stock setup?

G-Phi

No, no cam gear adjustments made so far.

And the MSD ignition was not on my car with my stock setup.

92cxturbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G-Phi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would itr cams be the best way to go over skunk or others??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Skunk stage1 or something simalar work work just as well if not better depending on the setup. I was set on getting type r's but I didnt trust buying them from someone over the internet, and brand new one's were to expensive IMO. Then I found a set of blox stage a for 375 new. Also that MSD unit might be part of the cause.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G-Phi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, no cam gear adjustments made so far.

And the MSD ignition was not on my car with my stock setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try stock ignition, and check cam timing.

G-Phi

Yeah, the MSD I have is the smaller one SCI (Sport Compact Ignition). I got it because I know I will need a better ignition so that the turbo doesn't blow out the spark when I'm at high boost....like when I get it re-tuned and turn up the boost to 20-25lbs. on race fuel.

urbansi

Not many Honda people like MSD's products. while Domestic people swear buy it

JDM00SI

post a pic of hte graph....

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G-Phi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, the MSD I have is the smaller one SCI (Sport Compact Ignition). I got it because I know I will need a better ignition so that the turbo doesn't blow out the spark when I'm at high boost....like when I get it re-tuned and turn up the boost to 20-25lbs. on race fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly I bet the stock ignition can handle it without a problem. And if it can't just throw on an external coil.

G-Phi

Yeah, I already have an external coil too. SS Blaster Coil.

nsxmatt

I think the question was already answered above. You are running the same boost on a lower compression motor. Just because it's built doesn't mean instant power, it just means you have the ability to crank the boost up now. No need to go changing all the other parts around just yet, just work with what you have now.

willyboyK20

what he said ^^^^^
The timing on the first tune was for stock gsr compression. How are you going to retune and use the same numbers as before

Your tuner should have known the motor is built and take advantage of that fact.

Thrown on the 3 bar map and turn up the boost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

fjt

You have lower CR so you can now run more timing.
Also as other said..By lowering the CR the car is going to make less power at the same PSI level on the same turbo.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

I completely misread that first post. I thought your stocker made that on 8 psi and the built motor made less on 12 psi.

I wouldn't suspect anything wrong, once I read the right things. Damn brain wasn't working yesterday.

Take it back for some more boost.

G-Phi

LOL! That's cool bro.

Well, I need to install a better radiator first, like a PWR or Coil or something to that effect. Then the 3 bar map sensor which I already have.

G-Phi

I initially thought that because I now have a bigger bore (83mm) that I would get more power. My car still pulls very hard. It's just that I want to be able to get up to or around 300whp on 91 octane gas without detonating.

TurboGSR96

When you do crank up the boost, make sure your AFR is in the 11.8 ish range. You can creep to the 12.0 area but I personally having gone through 2 sleeved full built short blocks its just not worth it. When you dropped your CR even as little ast a half point you will make less power. I was running a full stock head 10/1 CR at 8psi and my car was faster than it was at 9/1 at 13lb. I would upgrade the ignition to a coil on plug if I was you. Im running a 6A,Blaster Cap and coil and I really wish I never bought it. The COP has a much stronger spark that the MSD that I am running and prob close to the Digital 7 if not more.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGSR96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The COP has a much stronger spark that the MSD that I am running and prob close to the Digital 7 if not more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock ECU can't control COP last time I checked.

TurboGSR96

He is running a hondata....or is that considered a stock ecu?

G-Phi

Yeah, I'm running Hondata with an OBD 1 ECU. Not stock ECU.