customs-25

Im working on a built 97 gsr integra, it puts out a good amount of white smoke, has a turbonetics turbo with no shaft play, motor was fully rebuilt, first problem is the wideband is reading 10.3 shouldnt it be 14.7 +- .4? How would i lean it? It has a hondata s300 and is running rc700cc injectors i also have a set of rc310ccs should I just try to put the 300 injectors in or is that a bad idea without a tune? Fuel pressure guage shows 39psi also there is a vacuum line on the back of the head that goes to a guage in the car but it has oil in it, is it supposed to? Also it has a cel on and im not familiar with the s300 or integras do i have to hook my laptop and cable up to the hondata s300 or is there a easier way?

2kdrift

If its tuned on the 700s it wont even run on 300's.

have you done a leakdown or compression test?

customs-25

Compression is at 163 even except 1 cylinder is around 155 that may be because there was gas in the cylinders, im not sure if the car was tuned with the 700s, also there was no oil in the intake piping going to the intake manifold so that means it cant be the turbo leaking oil and based on the compression numbers its most likely the valve seals right?

2kdrift

My point is you cant just swap injectors especially with that much difference without doing a retune. Valve seals sounds about right. Do you have any type of modified PCV/ catch can system?

customs-25

It doesnt have a catch can just a breather filter on the valve cover.

drmix

Has this motor ever ran in this car? What all was changed to the car since it ran last? After reading your post it sounds like you picked up somebody elses unfinished project and dont really know what all is done to the car.

I know this motor was freshly rebuilt but how long has this motor been running for? Is this just after the very first startup?

For the smoke is this on startup? While driving?

When the AFR is at 10.3 is this right after starting it up? While driving? At idle warmed up? On cold startups is normal for a motor to idle slightly rich but as the motor warms up it should even out.

There is alot of missing info in your post.

customs-25

I did pick it up as a unfinished project, so it reads 10.3-10.5 at cold idle I havnt ran it long enough to reach its full running temp, ive only ran it for literally 1-2 mins, the guy I got it from said it had only 40 miles on it after it was rebuilt and he didnt get on it because it wasnt tuned yet, he said the full valve train was replaced as well as new piston rings, I believe him because I got a really good deal on it and there would be no reason to lie, it has a tune on it but with a diff turbo manifold, down pipe, intercooler piping, so it should be somewhat of a useable tune I think, how do I check the cel on the hondata s300? plug it in to a laptop? or is there a simpler way? also is it possible the smoking is coming from the exhaust side of the turbo? the turbo doesnt have any shaft play

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Time the **** out. Stop, right there. Is the car not even tuned yet?

customs-25

Yes its tuned, but the turbo manifold, intercooler piping, down pipe have been changed and the motor has been rebuilt since it was tuned.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Well, if it's smoking, then some part of the engine rebuild was done poorly. You broke rule #1: Never buy another man's project. For a brand new rebuild, your compression test should also be well above 160, unless you have stupidly low CR pistons in there.

Do a block test, see if that white smoke is coolant. If it is...well, you're fucked. Time to tear down and rebuild. If it isn't, then add a teaspoon of oil to each cylinder and repeat the compression test. If there's a noticeable increase in compression, your rings are fucked. Time to tear down and rebuild. If the block test and wet compression tests all pass, then pull the downpipe off, and see if there's oil residue inside the downpipe or turbo exhaust side.

drmix

What version of s300 do you have? If its version 3 you can download the app on your phone and read the codes that way. Otherwise you can hookup a laptop and connect to the ecu using Smanager. The old school way also works by jumping the connector on the passenger side and counting the CEL flashes to determine what the code is.

Sounds really sketchy that someone spends all the time rebuilding a motor, putting turbo parts on it then only puts 40 miles on it and doesnt bother to get it tuned.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pressure is a bit low. 42psi at minimum. If the car was tuned at a higher base fuel pressure and then pressure drops it can cause a problem.

Does it have an OEM FPR and a signal line from the intake manifold?

Also stop worrying about everything wrong. You'll never get anything done.
Pick one thing and work the problem till it's resolved and then move on to the next.

customs-25

Thanks for all the help guys, so i got my laptop hooked up to it, took forever to get it to connect because the old smanager disk it came with didnt have the right usb drivers, so it says the cel is for the intake temp sensor cel code 10, I listed all the problems at once because by knowing all the issues it can rule things out. So I was looking at the iat and there are 3 extra plugs

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

A defective IAT sensor could be causing your fueling problems. The ECU uses air temp in conjunction with MAP and TPS readings among other things to look up the proper load cells. If the sensor reads high or low it can cause issues.

With the engine running look at the real time feedback for the IAT sensor.

2kdrift

Iat is not the only sensor that uses that type of plug. I have had cars in the past throwing codes due to previous owners mixing up the plugs. What I do is grab a multimeter and do a continuity test from individual plugs to the ECU pinouts which you can find online. Once you find out what the plug is actually for you will know where it needs to be plugged in

customs-25

Yea i was thinking maybe the plugs were backwards since the 2 grey plugs are the same, what color are the two wires on your iat plug?

2kdrift

Hmmm i Think I have replaced MY IAT plug on my harness so I cant really tell ya sorry.

2kdrift

what is that clear small hose for? boost gauge? Theres oil in it

customs-25

It goes to the back of the head i think its the oil pressure guage thats what i was asking in my first post

2kdrift

I see now, yeah the location its in is an oil reference. Let me know if you need the ecu pinouts or anything Thats the simplest way to identify plugs the way I see it. All you will need is a multimeter and about 5 Ft of some type of wire

customs-25

So im trying to figure out why im getting a cel for the iat, i pulled the sensor and tested it seems good, checked the wiring at the computer its good, I did find a plug that is not connected that has the same wire color as the iat plug and its wired to the same loom, its the evaporative emmission purge solenoid I believe since this is not plugged in would that maybe cause the iat cel since they are the same wire color (red yellow) and appear to be on a circuit?

customs-25

Fixed the CEL for the IAT the IAT sensor was bad, now im just working on the oil burning problem, and getting the car tuned, does anyone know of any bay area tuners? dnr is gone I think

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

DNR is still around, although he (Dave) no longer tunes at the old Hayward location. He now tunes for/with Wicked1 in Fremont.

There's also RedZone in Antioch and HybridWorks in Vallejo, which I've had my 2 Hondas tuned at. You really can't go wrong with any one of these 3 here. I should also mention Tech3 and DynoSpot Racing in San Jose, and BlackTrax in Milpitas.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Told you the IAT sensor was bad lol. The only time it will throw an IAT code is if the ecu sees a sensor value out of range which means the sensor has failed