Frozen E

Hey guys,
Just wondering here. Back when my B16 was stock I would see about 12-16 psi idle and 35 psi at around 3K RPM. Everybody told me that was normal. Great.
Now, that engine blew itself to pieces. When I got the rebuild done, Scott from importbuilders installed a new ITR oil pump. More oil flow, better for the engine, right? Anyway, when driving around town the oil pressure stays a hell of a lot higher than it used to.
And on the highway at about 3K RPM the oil pressure always seems to hover around the 60-65 psi mark. It doesn't even come close to where it used to be at with the stock engine.
Warmed up and at idle it would sit at about 20-24.

I'm using the fast turbo oil line kit on a T3/T04 .48 trim turbo. I believe it comes with a -3AN supply line if I remember correctly. I'm thinking about installing an oil pressure gauge at the turbo's inlet just to make sure I don't blow the seals AGAIN.

So anyway, two part question.

Are the pressures I'm seeing about right for a B16 block/ITR pump setup?
And what kind of pressure should I be seeing at the turbo oil supply inlet with a -3AN line to keep things safe in there?

HiProfile

I don't know if the b16 & gsr/itr pumps are different internally, I do know the only diff between GSR and ITR is the lack of a washer under the bypass bolt. This would lead to higher bypass (max) pressure, not higher pressure at lower RPM's.

Regardless, I always suggest a .060" restrictor before the turbo.

abnaasefmb

i see oil pressure a little higher than that with my old stock b16.

F20Cteg

35psi at 3K, very bad. Honda spec is at least 50psi at that rpm. Minimum 10psi at idle.


Also, a 0.045" restrictor would be better.

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
35psi at 3K, very bad. Honda spec is at least 50psi at that rpm. Minimum 10psi at idle.


Also, a 0.045" restrictor would be better.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really remember what the exact numbers were. All I know is that I asked this question back when I first put the turbo in and everybody was in agreement that whatever I was reading was right for a stock B16.

Thanks for those restrictor sizes. I guess I'll google a place to find them. Unless some of you guys can post up some links for me.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Here is a link to the restrictor size mentioned above but it seems a little expensive at 14 bucks?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=OIL

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a link to the restrictor size mentioned above but it seems a little expensive at 14 bucks?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=OIL</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man. I'm probably going to order one from them along with some silicone drain hose. $14 is a hell of a lot cheaper than a turbo rebuild.

HiProfile

A brand new b16a2 pump is supposed to read 50psi at 3k - at 176F. 200F for oil in a b16-T isn't uncommon if you've been running a while (and boosted any bit), and track cars are known to get past 240F. It would probably read a bit higher right after the needle hit opperating temp (fan on twice, still parked). This is also assuming its fresh 5w or 10w-30.

All I did for my restrictor was take the first fitting between the line and distribution block (NPT to AN), heat it with a torch for a while, then stick a bunch of solder & flux in there. After it solidified, I drilled a .060" hole in it. THe solder is good to ~500F, so no worries about it being dissolved.

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I did for my restrictor was take the first fitting between the line and distribution block (NPT to AN), heat it with a torch for a while, then stick a bunch of solder & flux in there. After it solidified, I drilled a .060" hole in it. THe solder is good to ~500F, so no worries about it being dissolved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of solder did you use? The fitting you filled was brass, right? So I'm assuming you didn't just use regular old 50/50 or 95/5 soft solder on a roll. Must have been the brazing sticks.
Either way, that's a hell of an idea, and a good way to save a few bucks. Hell, I might just do it at work tomorrow.
Thanks for the DIY tip.

abnaasefmb

Lol, Hi is the ultimate DIYer, he would make his own pistons if he could! lol

EF guys are very resourceful

Frozen E

Damnit, forgot to take the fitting to work today. Not like I would have had much chance to get it done anyway. Was busy fixing an AC leak over at the gym all day. Concrete ceilings suck. Especially when I feel like I'm walking around on broken ankles. Damn you Honolulu marathon.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

My recent build, I see 45psi at idle after warmup. Cold start is like 80-100psi.

At 3000rpms, I see over 65psi.

I run 20W-50 oil but its usually hot as hell here in Fla. In wintertime, I run lighter oil.

Oil temps sometimes see 230F on a 95F+ day, daily driving in stop and go traffic. Usually more around 200-210F though normally.