B18Sleeper

Ok of course my car is an obd2 and comes with a b16a2 block. My question is what are the best options for a FI motor? Should I go to obd1 or stay with obd2? Should I get an LS block, gsr block, keep m b16a, or what? I have studied all the bseries motor and but I have never built a bseries for FI. I know many of you have and I just want some people with experience to give me some of the top choices and I can go from there. I just need a starting point cause I am getting lose the more I look myself. So anyone with experience and proof on a build please give me some experience background on a block to go with. My power goals are 350 to start then move up from there and hopefully get to around 600 one day with this same block. Thanks

b16bri

You alredy have the b16 you migh as well stay with it... The b16 head flows amazing and I baught a jdm b16a for my car and it came with a b16 tranny and I like it the gears seem long. Now there might be a set up that works a litle better but. You alredy have the motor and tranny just build that. my b16 makes 454 whp and 300lbs of torque and it's an amazing car. You wont be dissapointed. As for your computer if you plan on running crome, hondada, ectune i believe you have to switch to obd1. just stick with the b16. It all depends on your budget and use of the car but it makes senice considering you have the motor alredy. If you need help on what parts to use PM me
or if you have anyother questions
goodluck

B18Sleeper

see the thing is i cant park this car to build the motor right now. which is why i would like to get another bottom end at least to start on until i got a true dd. i just here so much about ls vtec builds, gsrs, and ctr blocks that i wonder why all the guys with stock b16a's swap. i know the b16a head flows great its almost the same as the b18c1 flow. but the block and 1.6L is what i am wondering about. thanks

alex_s817

a ctr block would do nothing for you. since you are planning on building a block on the side, you might as well go with a larger displacement engine, unless you can get a b16 block for cheaper or something. how much power would you like to make? you may just be happy with boosting the stock engine thats in there now but if not, i would choose to build an ls or gsr block. with pistons and rods, maybe some upgraded valvetrain components, you will have an engine that can handle over 400whp.

B18Sleeper

my power goals as stated before are 350 to start then work my way up to where i am happy with it. love to get around 600 one day though. well if i got a ls block should i use my head? i can put together a motor and figure that out. but the thing i dont know is what block to go with. i know there is no replacement for displacement so should i get a 1.6 1.8 2.0l motor. dont know which block would be the strongest and best for my goals that is stock block without a lot of machine work, just internals

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

for 600whp, either way, you'll need to sleeve the block, so there's no need to worry about which one is "strongest" to use. Your best bet really is to get a beater car first. PERIOD. then work on the options that are available to you about either getting a B18C, or even a K motor. You can always take a B18C, Use an LS crank, and do stronger pistons and rods for the internal components. Then you don' t have to worry about an LS/VTEC conversion kit. You can also use that LS crank and sleeve the block to 84mm, making it a true 2.0 litre. the possibilities are endless.

B18Sleeper

so what your saying is take my b16 bore it to 84mm, sleeve it, and get a ls crank? or do this is a b18c? i got an offer on and ls bare block with crank so i have that as an option. as for the 600 i know it will need to be sleeved eventually but 600 is not my first build, i prefer to move up the hp numbers slowly. i will have a DD in a few months when i actually start the build, but i am just tryin to get everything in line before i get to that point, so if i find a good deal on a block i can get it when i find it instead of pass it up and then regret it later. thanks everyone for the input

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Sleeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what your saying is take my b16 bore it to 84mm, sleeve it, and get a ls crank? or do this is a b18c? i got an offer on and ls bare block with crank so i have that as an option. as for the 600 i know it will need to be sleeved eventually but 600 is not my first build, i prefer to move up the hp numbers slowly. i will have a DD in a few months when i actually start the build, but i am just tryin to get everything in line before i get to that point, so if i find a good deal on a block i can get it when i find it instead of pass it up and then regret it later. thanks everyone for the input</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unfortunately, the B16 block cannot accept the LS crank. Only a B18C can do that. You can get good standard kit, and use it as a base standpoint for your build. Its good that you're starting off slow before trying to make 600whp, because anything over about 480whp is useless on the street. 600whp is more for a drag race only. If you plan on using a B18C block later, don't sleeve the one you have now. Just go with about 250-300whp to start. Sleeve a new block to build for even bigger power later.

B18Sleeper

ok so u say build the b16 i have for my first build and get a b18c block with ls crank sleeve it and use that for my second build with my head? and moving slow on this is the only way to go cause i dont want to build a powerful motor and not be able to handle the car lol. but what makes a b18c block better than the b18b?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yep. you got it right.

m R g S r

Why spend the $$ building two motors? Start with one thats not in the car and go all out on it, then you dont have to buy EVERYTHING twice, including turbo/fuel setups to support more power. But be warned it will not be cheap.....at all.

B18Sleeper

ok but why should i go with a b18c over a b18b?

alex_s817

because a b18c is a vtec block meaning you wont have to worry about running the oil line kit from the back of the black to the head like you would with an ls/vtec set-up. nothing wrong with an ls/vtec but the gsr block would be more straight forward. but yea responding to what you said earlier, you can build either set-up and use the head you have now. if i was you, i would just put a turbo kit on the motor now while it is still in the car, and then build another block on the side. no sense in building a b16 now and then building another in a few months or even a year. imo

B18Sleeper

well what kind of turbo kit should i go with? cause i dont know many i can run without changing fuel pump and fuel injectors, maybe not the fuel pump but i know for sure i wont be able to run my stock injectors. i would love to piece together my own kit but i am still not 100% confident in my ability to put together the right parts for a stock motor. i am still learning more everything but i do have the basic knowledge, understanding, and concept of what to do and want needs to be done, just no experience with it. so if i just turbo my stock block right now would it be safe to just run a boost gauge, hondata, boost controller, and hondata? but i heard that obd1 is the best for tuning so should i swap my b16a over to a obd1? thanks so much guys

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Sleeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well what kind of turbo kit should i go with? cause i dont know many i can run without changing fuel pump and fuel injectors, maybe not the fuel pump but i know for sure i wont be able to run my stock injectors. i would love to piece together my own kit but i am still not 100% confident in my ability to put together the right parts for a stock motor. i am still learning more everything but i do have the basic knowledge, understanding, and concept of what to do and want needs to be done, just no experience with it. so if i just turbo my stock block right now would it be safe to just run a boost gauge, hondata, boost controller, and hondata? but i heard that obd1 is the best for tuning so should i swap my b16a over to a obd1? thanks so much guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

Slow down chief. there's no way you're going to do this 300whp build w/o changing some of the parts like injectors, fuel pump, and management. There's just no way around it. This is where you want to get a kit that you can install yourself, then take to the tuner, and get fully tuned to be reliable. I recommend going with spoolin performance for the kit, (with my turbo) .

B18Sleeper

ok first off if i just turbo my b16a i aint going to shoot for 300. i know if i want that alot has to be changed cause i believe my injectors are only good for about 200 or so. so i know things have to be changed for 300, but just to turbo the block and get use to a turbo motor what kit to run with as bare minium parts having to be changed. i will not shoot for 300 on a stock block, whatever i get will be fine while i build the other block up to about 350 or 400. i am in no hurry for this trust me if i do something its done right the first time. so what do u think about boosting just the stock block what kit to go with? i know i still have to changed injectors and some other odds and ends but i dont want major changes if that makes sense. thanks for ur help

B18Sleeper

oh and should i stay with obd2 or go with obd1 for tuning? it may be a myth but i heard obd1 is better for tuning options.

b16bri

Yes I believe obd1 is better and to do this your gonna need a wire conversion harness and oblviously an obd 1 computer. there are towns of kits, check out turbo kits.com theres drag, revhard, and many more. kits like drag comes with a FMU and an inline fuel pump. The FMU will increase the pressure to your fuel rail and help supply enough fuel for you while useing stock injectors. Now this is kinda a shitty set up and bigger injectors are deff the way to go but for a 200 hp civic and 6 psi it will work fine. let me no if you have anymore questrions

B18Sleeper

running that low of boost what do u think about the gauges....will a boost gauge be enough or should i go with more? thanks

b16bri

Boost is deff needed along with air and fuel ( wideband) and oil pressure are also very important get them. Both boost and oil pressure you can get them for like 50 dollars. The wideband can get a little price but it will help save your motor. Welcome to the world of boost it costs LOTS of $$ and this is only on a stock block maybe running 8 or 9 psi

B18Sleeper

oh man trust me i know all about the money it will cost. its not just the world of boost its the world of cars. and my civic already has well over 10 grand in it, so the motor cost is not a huge deal. i do what it takes for my hobby. and what boost and oil pressure gauge u getting for 50 bucks? all i have ever ran in my cars are autometer and i don't know a single gauge that is that cheap. so i run a turbo timer as well? i think hondata has the option of boost control so i shouldn't need a boost controller. but thanks again

greygoose92

You don't need a turbo timer but I always hated siting in the car for two minutes after I have pulled in a parking spot. But for a street car I would get a turbo timer they are fairly priced.

b16bri

I got my oil pressure guage and boost guage for 50 dollars each form a local shop they are both autometer and the oil was short sweep electric so the oil stay under the hood and not in the piller they were both new not used. Turbo timers are not needed as long as your not lazy and just wait for min or two and idk know hondatda boost cdontrool works i'm not sure if it acts like a boost controller or just works with a boost controller to provide other functions for it eaither way MBC are pretty cheap.

SpoolnG2

I would just put a kit on your b16 right now along with some gauges, clutch, injectors, EMS, fuel pump, and run that on 300whp. I think you'll like that for now. As far as kits go, I reccomend AFI along with a Borg Warner turbo. Ive got a BNIB boost gauge for sale too if your interested..... check my signature.

B18Sleeper

ok well something i should have mentioned before my motor has 116k miles on it and i have had to pull the head off to replace 4 valves. the compression is fine now but what should i check before i try to run this block to 300whp. cause if i try to push this out of this block i only want to replace the fuel pump, injectors, clutch, gauges, turbo timer, and turbo kit. hopefully not have to mess with internals or valvetrain. but thanks so much for the help, when i look for these kits should i look for one that rates right at 300 or more like 400 to 500? thanks