.RTErnie

Background info...

Some of you may remember when my clutch came apart in late July. The clutch also took out my tranny, starter, radiator, downpipe, both DSS axles, and it broke a "dog ear" off of the side of my block. (2.4L Cast iron Dodge JA block) This dog is important because its the real only threaded place for my transmission to attach on teh back side of the block. So it is VERY important that this be intact. The engine has approx 5k miles on it with NO mechanical problems.

Since then I have fixed everything but the block..and I actually got the car back and running just before school started(early Sept.) I made a 1/4" steel support bracket and put a bolt through with a washer and nut to try and hold onto the block as best it could with out being actually "threaded" into it. If you can imagine this... basically it broke down the center of the bolt hole..so Im left with a C shaped hole for my bolt...with a little more than half of the threads missing..(stripped torn etc)

I have another 2.4L block from a PT cruiser that had been overheated, but is still within spec to be honed and for me to put my forged rods and SRT-4 pistons in. Only problem is that it has been overheated(metal was discolored between mains) but the bearings were in decent condition.

^^^Cliffs...and now the Questions

So...I can't fix my old block...and I doubt it will be strong enough to last a FULL out drag pass with me launching on the two-step and 25" slicks....just too much torque.

Or I can swap ALL of my parts over to this new block after its been cleaned up and gone through.

And if I swap all of the parts over will I need to get a new Oil pump/water pump/ piston rings, arp rod bolts(were stock mopar bolts before)?

I know I'll get new bearings, and maybe a stouter oil pump... But I'd like to know what is HIGHLY recommended changing/replaceing when swapping blocks as I'm doing.

thanks for reading through all of my Cluster fucked post.

.RTErnie

bump

.RTErnie

bump again...

CoreyR

for the price of an OEM water pump, oil pump and rings its not worth not spending the cash. rings are $17 per piston for SRT pistons, oil pump is $57 and water pump is $46 straight from dodge.

obviously go with a new OEM timing belt and if you tensioner pulley/idler pulleys are stock might as well replace those now before it seizes up like mine did.

you didnt have head studs before or you did? i would definatley go with ARP headstuds if you dont already have them.

.RTErnie

JA 2.4L block
New SRT-4 crank
New SRT-4 rods, pistons, and rings
New SRT-4 Timing belt, tensioner, idler
New SRT-4 oil pan, pick up, oil pump, filter adapter
New SRT-4 water pump.
ARP Head studs
Cometic HG
removed balance shafts
custom windage tray/baffle system
UR Race udp
Block was given a fresh hone and all journals were polished.
Everythign was "race" balanced, and the pistons were lightened.

Basically everything on the timing belt side and inside the engine is SRT-4...except teh block. And they all have ~ 5k miles on them.

Im thinking... Use the PT block and go with Eagles and Wiseco's...should be strong enough to hold a good 600whp...until I save up enough money...keep driving my current broken block.

CoreyR

probably wouldnt be a bad idea to go with JE's and eagles. SRT pistons and rods are strong, but they arent 600WHP strong.

.RTErnie

but neither is my ClutchMasters 4 puck stage 4.

If anyone has a free twin disc they'd like to donate let me know!