widewhite

ok guys so ive been having issues with manifolds breaking blowing wastegates off and cracking downpipes.
my first manifold was a cheap ebay stainless steel ram style manifold that blew apart at the wastegate, had it welded then it broke further back closer to the collector, so I picked up another manifold from a buddy and swapped it on had to run open downpipe because my other manifold had longer runners and my exhaust didn't match back up.

after running open downpipe my exhaust apparently scraped on a rough road and snapped where the turbo flange is on the manifold,

now I am looking at a BRMS Ramhorn manifold and turbosmart wastegate for my lsvtec set up

I had boost creep issues with my first manifold, my question is has anyone had issues with boost creep using the BRMS manifold and a turbosmart wastegate ?


open to all opinions and theories

Schister66

What size turbo and wastegate? Manifold design plays a role, but if you're running a GT40r at 8psi on a 38mm gate, you're going to have creep issues.

Need more info

I know https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...ports-2963537/ was around for a while, but from what i've found, their website no longer works.

Sheepey Built is another good option, albeit a bit pricey http://sheepeybuilt.com/collections/turbo-manifolds

widewhite

currently im running a m60-1 turbo .70 a/r with a brandnew Tial 38mm with 8.70lb spring wastegate that still creeped with my old manifold to 17lbs

im purchasing a gt35R ball bearing turbo along with a new turbosmart wastegate with 10lb spring mated to the Blueridge manifold

Blueridge shut its doors early this summer in order to take another path, I know this bc they were out of hickory, nc which is only aout half an hr from me.

Schister66

That's a lot of boost creep, no doubt, but with a 60-1 or a GT35r on such low boost using a 38mm gate, creep is almost unavoidable.

What is your power goal?
Engine? Is it built?

Runnerdown

Tuned right a 35r will not easily run 10lbs on a single unless the manifold is specially made to prioritize the gate entry. You can fudge the tune to an extent but I do not endorse that method to alleviate creep, proper boost control uses the wastegates, not the tune.

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

Its hit and miss on a Ramhorn manifold. On my first setup with a BWR Ramhorn Manifold, Tial 44 MVR and 6262 turbo held boost with no problems. I was able to hold 8 psi on on 1st gear like nothing. Never had creep issues at all. Got a new block and smaller turbo and had uncontrollable boost creep. Another guy on here , think his name is LS Joker has AFI ramhorn running a Tial 38 and hes never reported any type of creep issues. No two engines flow alike, so you will just have to find out yourself. As for me, my solution ... gonna hack my manifold gate flange and go with a bigger wastegate. From the numerous threads I've read thats helped other guys and I hope it does for me as well....

widewhite

I am running a mild built ls vtec eagle rods, arp rod bolts, king race bearings, CP pistons, Block guard, arp headstuds, b16 head with springs and retainers on stock b 16 cams.
engine has 12k miles since it was built and put in the car.

Schister66

Manifold design plays a role and some fabricators have taken note of this. Check this LoveFab SST. It uses a teardrop wastegate entry rather than the straight stub used by some companies. Subtle things like this can make all the difference

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

This.. If I would of known all the above before hand, I would of never purchased the manifold I have.

ls joker

i havent had any spike or creep problems on my afi manifold. afi turbo shutdown last summer i believe. when im ready to redo my setup, ill be goin thru go autoworks. i was orginally goin to go thru go autoworks years ago, but for some reasons i went with afi turbo. didnt get my kit til three months later. they shipped it to the wrong address, then back to arizona, thrn finally back to toledo after three months. customer service was lack of caring.

go autoworks is definitely the way to go. great customer service, fitment, product. i have literally never heard of one bad issue from great or go autoworks. gregs answers anytime dude.

ls joker

and yes a fairly sized turbo on low boost, on a smaller gate screams creep. the angle of the wastegate plays a role aswell, as already stated.

met

This was something I have been wondering, I was running in the upper teens before. After a rebuild I was going to go easy on it and it creeps from the springs 9lb to about 11lbs. Full race ram horn with a gt35. Just wanted to say thanks for the info!

ek9_beast

U guys got me thinking now. I have a d16 with the go-autoworks top mount with a .57 trim turbonetics and single 38mm wg with 18lb spring. I know the ramhorns have this issue sometimes but how about the long-runner style top mounts? Creep with them also cuz $800 later I hope not and the cars complete waiting on the tune and don't wanna get to the dyno session and find this issue out.

Schister66

^^ A 57 trim at 18psi is getting to the point where it doesn't want to spool any faster, so i dont suspect you'll have any issues ... the difference is some of the bigger, higher inertia turbochargers just start to get into the "butter zone" when the wastegate tries to bleed off the excess exhaust gas at 8 or 10 psi. Even a 60-1 or 35R at higher boost can be controlled by a smaller (38mm) wastegate. Its the lower boost (<1bar typically) that have creep issues.

ek9_beast

Ok good. I run my 60-1 with a 38mm with no issues so ur correct on that one. I just got worried with the long runners of my go autoworks and the 38mm after reading these ramhorn horror stories.

Silent_Bob69

Im running a BRMS ram horn and a Tial 38mm gate with a 1bar spring, no controller. 57trim creeps to 20psi.

ek9_beast

So 5.5psi creep, not as bad as some others but am glad I went top mount vs. Ramhorn on my street car

ek9_beast

Accidentally double sent haha but this has been fairly informative for me. Didn't realize the ramhorns had such a big issue without a larger than normal wastegate for the application.

Schister66

Certain topmounts may be less susceptible to boost creep, but the long runners pose their own problems - mainly that they take longer to spool, making it less than ideal for a true street car.

Here is one of my dynos from 2007. I was running a stock block GSR on a GT3255b (similar to a 57 trim). I had been using a topmount, but switched to an SLS shorty ramhorn. The picture (below) shows the comparsion in powerbands between the two. To be clear, the only changes between the two dynos was the manifold.

Here's the thread for reference sake: https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...-dyno-2052996/

Shorty Ramhorn (blue) VS the Topmount (red)


Boost pressure and HP comparison

ek9_beast

I was told that my cam, being a n/a crower 2 would like the long runners of the topmount. U think this is a valid theory?(schister66)

Schister66

I was just reading that and honestly whatever DDTECH tells you is better than any cam advice I could give. I've been tinkering with a Z6 setup in my garage and its running a Comp 59100 with an adjustable cam gear. Its a built Wiseco/Eagle bottom end, but its only at 8.2:1 (aka ****) compression so i got a smaller cam. I didnt want lumpy idle and crap power out of boost - i can forsake a little top end for more streetworthiness

ek9_beast

Appreciate the honesty on that topic. I certainly will take a hp cut for a nice, smooth powerband. I and seems like u aren't looking for a dyno queen, but aiming for that hp goal that makes my FWD civic "streetable."