TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I say option A. then he never has to do it again, then understand the proper heat ranges for his plugs, be able to monitor if any ignition upgrades he makes later are working in conjunction with the plugs, see if the exhaust manifold is running too hot (Possibly off timing) etc. It's not just the plugs, it helps with other things in coordination w/ the plugs.

As for the Tip-in enrichment issue, we may have to simply have to agree to disagree. ok?

H22Honda98

Been super busy at work. I checked the plugs, they appeared to be running a bit lean. I didnt have my phone with me at the time and couldnt get a picture of them. I went ahead and put in a new set of plugs, I also filled up with 93 and added some quality octane booster. same deal. stays steady at 12.7-13.0 under full boost and it creeps up a bit higher at 6.5k+ RPM. I went out last weekend and ragged on it for a while and eventually saw somewhat heavy white smoke after a pull for about 7 or 8 seconds and decided to call it quits. Still runs the same and doesnt appear to be any problems, havent seen any smoke since. Im just going to get my hands on Neptune RTP and get a retune here in the coming weeks.

the car is a blast though. i already want more power and feel myself slipping down the rabbit hole.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ok. Last question. Where's the sensor itself located in the exhaust system?

H22Honda98

its right after the flex pipe, downstream of the downpipe. I dont have a sensor installed in the pic, but you can see the bung in the 4th or 5th pic i posted that has the lower part of my dumptube in it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Roger that.. I see it ...

H22Honda98

Welp......figured out the problem. even though i feel retarded ill post this up in case anyone else finds themselves in the same position.

So, like i posted up earlier, it started laying out tons of smoke after a few pulls one night, after it happening a few times i realized it was actually blue smoke (oil) and not white. It started doing this every single time i would put heavy load through it for more than a few seconds, especially in 4th gear. I started thinking it was either the rings or valve seals or something of that nature and was kind of just writing it all off, waiting for the boom. Well a couple nights ago after it was doing this non stop i started thinking about it and realized that there was a rubber cap on the port on my valve cover that used to go to the intake pipe when it was oem. I think it was obviously building up massive amounts of crankcase pressure and couldnt bleed off, so it was literally sending oil out the pcv valve directly into the intake manifold and oil was burning up in the combustion chamber. This was causing HEAVY blue smoke, and surely diluting the fuel mixture and causing it run lean. I took the cap off, threw one of those breather filters on the port, and bam, no more smoke, and the afr holds steady at 12.3-12.5 which is where it was tuned at. Incredibly simple/stupid mistake.

I have a catch can on the way right now .

Im glad its fixed though, and now i wont have to waste money and retune, only to find out that it didnt fix the problem. live and learn, i suppose.

H22Honda98

Alright fellas, looking for some direction here.

I'm having an issue where the car will not start when its hot. Here's the thing though, the car has always started right up on the first crank.... right up until the very moment it was tuned. Ever since it's been tuned and had the turbo setup installed, when the car is cold, it takes 2 tries every single time to start it. Even now, when cold, same deal 2 tries. After it was warmed up, it would take anywhere from 3 - 5 tries, but it always started eventually over the 12,000 or so miles I've put on it so far, and it was never a big enough hassle for me to figure out why it was doing this. Well recently i was stranded after turning it off at a gas station and its continuing to not start when hot, so i need this solved.

Here soon ill run out with a power probe and find out what's getting power and what isn't, but before i even go there, i wanted to ask if anyone knows if this could be related to the tune or the injectors themselves. I ask because this issue never arose before the turbo and it just seems too odd to think i stated having part failures at that very moment and its way too consistent with how it has started ever since the install and tune. If anyone has any insight, lay it on me. Also the main relay is fine.

k20z1ej1

i was gonna say main relay, but you said its good, so im leaning toward ignition coil.

ls joker

I Actually had this happen to me back when i first switched to s300. The fix for me was in the fuel trims parameters. Cranking fuel trims was cut in half.

i would pull in to get gas. Get gas, try to start, and it wouldnt. Untill it cooled off some.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I too would look into ignition coil or distributor before touching areas of the map. I'd leave that alone. You're not a tuner, so don't go delving into those areas

H22Honda98

Ill swap out the distributor tomorrow and see if that has anything to do with it. Due to eCtune having virtually no support and no way (that I've found anyway) to successfully get the software onto a machine and functioning, i couldn't go that route even if i wanted to.

Here's to hoping it's a simple parts failure

PTVDesign

exhoust manifold from h22?

H22Honda98

No, its flanged for the F22B. An H22 mani will not fit an F22B DOHC. Im sure you can still find companies/fabricators who will build manis for the F22B/H23A1 if you look hard enough. I know lovefab will still do it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

LoveFab will no longer do it. They have officially closed their doors as of Dec 25. and moved into an entirely new direction and no longer manufacture exhaust manifolds. I spoke to the man himself.

H22Honda98

That's a bummer, he told me a few months ago when i called that he would still be willing to make the mini me eq. I must've caught him at the tail end.

k20z1ej1

did you ever figure out the hot start issue?

H22Honda98

Kinda sorta. After i made this post it never gave me anymore issues strarting while hot, but i went ahead and swapped to another known - good distributor anyways and havent had any issues either... so its kind of up in the air as to what (if anything) fixed it because i couldn't reproduce the problem and do a back to back test. It's always ran super strong but my AFR's have always kind of been all over the place and I've had starting issues in general ever since the moment its been tuned I think that's where the problems are. The tune was done quickly and the guy tuning it was (unfairly) put in a rush because i had to leave and be back for work and had a 2000+mi drive from Edmonton to Indy.

currently considering whether or not to build the engine over the winter and just hope a retune in the spring solves all the underlying issues. I'm dying to see what this turbo does at 20+psi.

H22Honda98

Does anyone here have insight/direct experience as to what the "breaking point" is of the stock F/H series transmissions? I'm skeptical as to whether or not they can handle 400+wtq and don't want to be unprepared opening up a $5,000+ can of worms having to build a trans if i end up cranking the boost on this setup. I know the user "extralargenog"(sp?) Had tons of problems at 600+wtq and documented them here on HT but he's far beyond where i plan on taking this and I'm having trouble dialing in my expectations/ finding multiple examples of failure on the interwebs.

H22Honda98

alright, well regardless of the answer to this question, i have sourced a built H trans from a good friend of mine at a great price and will be picking that up for peace of mind....i love the H and F setups but just dont trust these transmissions to hold up to big power and heavy cars.

to those of you that have had both boosted non vtec AND vtec setups.....

am i here throwing money at a turd building this engine when the H22 is an option(although a more expensive option at this point) ? Is there really that big of an improvement in the powerband going from non vtec to vtec for me to justify ditching this engine and sleeving an H motor and having to get a new turbo manifold/re route my exhaust? I guess I'm having a hard time seeing what the real life difference would be between 500whp in my F series vs 500whp in an H motor(besides same power at less boost). i just don't want to get ***** deep in this engine and end up feeling like i short changed myself staying non vtec.

unlike the H engine, the F series has iron sleeves that i would leave in there to save some cash and i have considered getting in touch with bisimoto because i know they make "custom cams" for this engine that i could use to get more out of the upper rpm range...any opinions on his cams?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Going VTEC on the cylinder head changes the entire game of your setup. It makes that much of a difference.
An example in the B-series world.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...egacy-3238858/

H22Honda98

Anyone have an idea of how far i could take 1100cc injectors on E85?

k20z1ej1

depends on fuel pressure. around 600 if you bump up to 100psi

boosted94gsr

H22Honda98

Is there a downside to using fuel pressure to help compensate? I'm very curious to see how far you get. I just recently picked up that same e85 450 walbro. I don't see myself really getting over 450whp with a turbo this small, so if the 1100's can support that ill be in good shape.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Like anything else, increasing base fuel pressure has its very quick limits. You can run more, but then you're out of the injectors range of efficiency. That's why that whole sheet detailing the specifics of the injectors are included; so you don't start going through crazy ideas.