TravisBiggie

Hello

Recently I got rod knock in my motor, and decided to rebuilt it. I have a couple questions.

First, the motor was completely stock (block and head) and was tuned to 293whp. The motor was rebuild to oem spec (eagle rods, 5.394 rod length same as stock, and some nippon racing pistons, stock compression, 81mm bore)

Once I have the car put back together, will I need to retune it? I did not have a wideband before the rebuild, but I do have a wideband now.

Also, once the car is up and running, I am going to go easy on it for 500 miles (constantly moving the rpms). How do I go about driving the car easy without creating boost, take the charge pipe off? Will I be safe to run ~500 miles without boosting, but still have the turbo installed?

I will also pre lube the motor before the first start up (remove injector clips, dizzy, spark plugs) I will crank the motor over like this for roughly a minute, and plan to put a tad bit of oil in the spark plug holes to lube the cylinder walls so the rings have some lubrication.

PLEASE! Any tips/help/constructive criticism will be appreciated.

SiRCiviC94

You'll be fine. And of coarse get the tune checked. Even still u have a wide and to monitor it

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't go out n beat on it. Easy break on it shouldn't be to bad. Should still get it retuned after break in.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

Staying out of boost is easier than you think. Just stay off the gas pedal

D-Rob

Take it to your tuner, and have him break it in. Ring seal will happen pretty quickly with high cylinder pressure.

BLU CIVIC

i'm basically in the same boat and just going to have my tuner break it in on the dyno

twkdCD595

Rings will 'seat' into position almost immediately on start-up... it is the wear in and fully seated seal of the rings you need to worry about. You need to wear them in before they lose their 'rough' edge, which requires cyl pressure to push the rings out against the bore. The spring like ring tension alone is not enough to actually wear them in.

With that in mind I am of the Earl Laskey / Motorman school of thought, break-in happens on the dyno while tuning and NOT babying it. Starting out with the normal idle/ low rpm stuff and work right into midrange rpms. Give some cool downs intermittently throughout. Finally by the end of the tuning session I would expect to see pulls in boost @ 100% throttle.

Also the tuner should let the engine decel a little bit before pushing in the clutch and throw on the dyno's brake. The engine vacuum will help clean off the cyl walls.

My 2 cents. This is how I have always done mine and will continue to do any fresh motor.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Break it in how you want it to run. The whol 500-1000 miles break in is just nonsense. The only thing that breaks in is the rings. Once they are seated
Properly the motor is ready for what you built it for. I always break my motors in hard.

Tippyman

Whaaaa?

Constructive criticism? Don't do any of that.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that’s stupid. I’ve never been able to crank a dry oil pump enough to build oil pressure. The 500 revolutions you are cranking the motor over dry is doing more "damage" than if you just start the damn thing it would build oil pressure immediately.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

As long as everything is properly lubed upon assembly you can cranking right up

TravisBiggie

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will have my tuner break it in.

Another question, I read it is recommended to buy an oil filter for my turbo oil feed since I am running a new motor, apparently the **** inside the motor can hurt or damage the turbo bearings? The oil feed line is running from the back of the block where the oil sensor use to be.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I didn't at first, but have come to use them, even in engines that are past the break-in period.

I used this.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...e=Acc-OilLines

As for break-in, well, to each his own. My tuner refuses to "break-in" engines on the dyno, which is fine, since i like the "older" method of doing it.

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

take it to your tuner.