PINKS

This is my first turbo honda, first time ive ever been in a turbo car actually is my own.

The car is an 88 Crx si, d16a6 forged motor with a t3/t4 t04E 57 trim. 3" open downpipe and an RFL BOV

Now I know my car is loud, from the open exhaust, loudest Ive heard on the street anyways. But Ive always noticed that my bov wasnt as loud as I thought it should be, it does a little flutter that is very un-audible if I boost a pound or two, but when I floor it and build 7-12psi its really not loud at all

Like I hear some vid's on hear with dsm bovs and there loud, you can hear them in the vids and they dont have to floor it like i do for some noise, srt-4's are loud as expletive with an aftermarket unit, can hear them far away

Now up until a week ago it wouldnt hold 15psi, it would start squeeling and letting pressure out before redline, so i shimmed it with some washers on both sides of the spring, it now holds.

I also dont really even START seeing any boost until about 3800, 15psi by maybe 5200 I really dont know but its up there. I always thougth that was just because of the bg turbo on the small motor. Then Im reading some people seem to get boost maybe even a fair bit quicker.

How do I test it short of buying another BOV?

RacerXI

Are you running a boost controller? If not, what does your vaccuum line setup look like? Where is the nipple on the BOV tapped from?

PINKS

Running a MBC

I have a direct line off my intake manifold, splits to a t, then to my box and one to my boost controller/ wastegate

turbotime

sounds like you have a bad BOV reference. Switch it to the brake booster- and dont T the line to the BOV to anything else. It needs a clear strong signal.

You will need to floor it to blow off becuase you have a bigger turbo than dsm'ers.

Your boost seems to be building/coming in at the right time for that size turbo/engine. If you think u have a leak build a tester (coupler + pcv endcap + valve stem) and put it where your filter goes. Then use a air compressor to charge the system with air and listen for leaks -this is done with car off. You will be able to hear the air hissing out. Sometimes it helps to spray soapy water on your connectors then you can see the air bubbles.

Hope this helps!

PINKS

I dont think all leaks would be audible if you cant even get your **** to hold pressure though right? How high can I pressurize this system? 30psi?

pic of this valve stem/pvc setup rigup?

PINKS

turbotime

yeah leaks are audible- 50psi leakin thro a small hole whistles pretty bad...pressureisze it using an air compressor

ill get a pic of the rig tonight

PINKS

You pump the **** to 50 psi?

I guess all I really need is the female end to a bicycle pup then right? Do they sell those alone, then just thread it into an end clamp, clamp that onto my first charge pipe and check for leaks

Wont the BOV open?

PINKS

importdude2000

bov opens on by vac
shooting air in comrpessor side wont have vac

PINKS

alrighty i picked up a 2" pcv endcap, a small bicycle pump fitting that im gonna drill n tap into the cap then i can rpessureize the system via bike pump lol

importdude2000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alrighty i picked up a 2" pcv endcap, a small bicycle pump fitting that im gonna drill n tap into the cap then i can rpessureize the system via bike pump lol

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homedepot?
did u see any 2.5 end caps?

use a valvestem from a car

PINKS

Yeah they have 2.5"

The thing with all the home depot couplers/ fittings / pvc, there all labelled smaller than they actually are

Like this end cap is labelled a 1.5" on the back but its 2.050"

My coupler was labelled a 1.5"- 2" but it was really a 2" - 2.5"

Bring a ruler or remember this

I didnt use a valvestem from a car because I dont have an air compressor on me at the house where I wanted to get this done tonight, and the bike pump is just easy and good excresize lol. hope it works