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Installed all the valves and springs, sent it to the machine shop and they checked everything and said it was fine, just cleaned and decked it, made sure and ask the ra and they said their machine did 30 ra or better so shouldnt have any sealing issues. Got the aem fuel rail, aem adjustable fpr and id 1050x injectors bolted up to the skunk2 intake. Found a por15 engine enamel kit and started painting, stock gsr trans (for now) Taped off and painted the engine as well, need to throw another coat on. Think this black looks a lot better than the aluminum color i have in the car currently although i realzie a drawback is gonna be if i do develop leaks its gonna be a lot harder to tell where they come from but all new oem seals should help. And its not my dd so no super rush to fix if i do.
Also been looking a lot at these coolant lines, i have a b20 in there now and b16 was in it when i glt it so i have no idea anything about a b18. The stock b18 intake has 1 coolant tube coming off it but the skunk 2 has 2 coming off the back? Maybe its for if i run a skunk2 throttle body too to bypass the throttle body lines? Also the tube going from water pump to other side of engine has 2 nipples coming off it as opposed to the 1 on the b20 if anyone knows why that is. Id like yo keep it as simple as possible, id like to keep heat so lines running to the heater core and eliminate as much as possible so might just not need to run any coolant to the intake? And maybe just those nipples on the coolant tube connect them together? Feel like blocking them off is just asking for them to leak. Havent done a ton of looking into but any info would be helpful!
The smaller coolant nipples are for the IACV and FITV. You can delete these if you want, but they may be beneficial if you live in a cold climate. I've got a single cam, but next time I have the IM off, I think I'm going to have the nipple welded up on the water pipe and I will probably drill/tap/plug the nipple on the IM.
The smaller coolant nipples are for the IACV and FITV. You can delete these if you want, but they may be beneficial if you live in a cold climate.
I wouldn't just say "cold" climates. I wiuld say those ste essential for retaining good idle characteristics in climates that fluctuate in temperature. From like a 40 degree morning to a 80 degree afternoon. with varying humidity levels.
I've had a number of people in the bay area remove those items only to put them back on after driving around the baydown to city of Carmel later.
Ya i guess i should have noted that this is a summer fun car and not a daily driver. I do live in Akron ohio but i dont drive it during the winter. Id imagine the coldest id drive it is 55-60 degrees. And i get the whole running coolant to throttle body and iac for idle but if im running Hondata and h ab ing it tuned "compensate " if thats the right word for the lack of coolant running there?
Ya i guess i should have noted that this is a summer fun car and not a daily driver. I do live in Akron ohio but i dont drive it during the winter. Id imagine the coldest id drive it is 55-60 degrees. And i get the whole running coolant to throttle body and iac for idle but if im running Hondata and h ab ing it tuned "compensate " if thats the right word for the lack of coolant running there?
never count on the computer completely to run everything as a replacement, seriously, there's no gain in not running these attachments. keep it simple.
Ya i guess i should have noted that this is a summer fun car and not a daily driver. I do live in Akron ohio but i dont drive it during the winter. Id imagine the coldest id drive it is 55-60 degrees. And i get the whole running coolant to throttle body and iac for idle but if im running Hondata and h ab ing it tuned "compensate " if thats the right word for the lack of coolant running there?
Just read the whole thread. Nice work! If you're running the Skunk2 Alpha throttle body, it eliminates the FITV anyways. You won't have a spot for coolant to it. As for the IACV, you can tune for it no problem. I haven't had coolant running to mine either and I set my IACV duty% to compensate. I live down south and the humidity sucks here AT BEST, and we get cold winters, not really much snow but times we do see temps 20 and below. Springtime is ******* no holds barred... It'll be cold in the morning then hot in the evening, or warm and muggy in the morning, then cool evening..
Anyhow, yes, you can adjust for it. Times you have to make corrections, times you can set it and leave it be for a while. It varies..
Thanks man! I appreciate it. And thanks everyone for the input! Ya the throttle body i have on my b20 right now i just made a block off plate for the bottom of the throttle body for no coolant. Got the turbo kit halfway mounted up, seeing some potential fitment issues with the wastegate tube mainly. Granted nothings torqued or anything but still. And deciding on how to run the oil feed line. If anyone has one of these kits or any input/ advice would be helpful.
Wastegate tube to he bottom of the ramhorn mani
wastegate tube to the exhaust. idk might just have yo cut some off the end worst case.
and obviously attach this part to the valve cover
got a golden eagle sandwich plate since they fice you already filter oil supposedly. And then obviously get an actual right angle instead of that.
Also is this a big deal? When the timing guide is in the cam gears it looks like the crank pulley is off a little but when the crank is in the cams look almost 1/2 tooth off. I mean seem to he good on just the timing gear but when you put the pulley on it looks off.
marks with tool in. Looks ok.
but looks a little off when the pulley put on
and looks like this when the pulley is lined up w the marks on the cover
When a cylinder head or a block has been cut... milled for surfacing or straightening a block after sleeving... the crank pulley will be slightly retarded unless you know EXACTLY how much material has been removed and you order a custom head gasket putting back this amount. I think you look OK.
I'm not running a B but, my Mark's dont line up absolutely perfect either after head resurfacing and block decking. They're about 1-2° off, but at 16° base timing, I'm not experiencing any issues at all. My first build was a different story though. I was about a tooth off and 16° timing didn't play well at all. Lol!
Ya thats what i was thinking after i posted was however much they took off the head would cause that, just paranoid and wanted to double check i guess lol. And i got skunk 2 tuner stage 1 cams.
Think the only things left, major things and things i can think of at least, is exhaust, probly skunk 2 megapower rr since my downpipe is 3in. And then get a half size radiator and figure out how to mount it.
Also been debating on getting like a chase bays tucked radiator or just do the civic half size radiator like most people do. I realize its like 500 more to do the tucked radiator but would look sweet. Only thing i keep reading is people are saying theres not enough space between the radiator and intercooler and itll cause your iat's to go up, but at rhe same time i know speedfactory and a few other places make the rad/intercooler tucked combo and cant imagine reputable companies are making a product that doesnt work. Anyone done this or have input?
Also been debating on getting like a chase bays tucked radiator or just do the civic half size radiator like most people do. I realize its like 500 more to do the tucked radiator but would look sweet. Only thing i keep reading is people are saying theres not enough space between the radiator and intercooler and itll cause your iat's to go up, but at rhe same time i know speedfactory and a few other places make the rad/intercooler tucked combo and cant imagine reputable companies are making a product that doesnt work. Anyone done this or have input?
Been working with quite a few of those with those "sweet looking" , and they all seem to regret it. Keep it simple, stay with the tried and true and keep it movin'..
Thanks man! I appreciate it. And thanks everyone for the input! Ya the throttle body i have on my b20 right now i just made a block off plate for the bottom of the throttle body for no coolant. Got the turbo kit halfway mounted up, seeing some potential fitment issues with the wastegate tube mainly. Granted nothings torqued or anything but still. And deciding on how to run the oil feed line. If anyone has one of these kits or any input/ advice would be helpful.
got a golden eagle sandwich plate since they fice you already filter oil supposedly. And then obviously get an actual right angle instead of that.
Rotate the gate outlet slightly downward to where the dump tude sits right above the downpipe. This will lower the tail end of it and swivel it for clearance.
If using the GE plate then you don't need to use the T fitting with it. You can connect the feed line with the 1/8NPT to -3AN fitting straight into it. Just rotate the sandwich plate to get the fitting angle you want to not bind the line.
GE plates do supply filtered oil to the turbo (or whatever else is attached to the outgoing line.
Ya thats what i was thinking after i posted was however much they took off the head would cause that, just paranoid and wanted to double check i guess lol. And i got skunk 2 tuner stage 1 cams.
Think the only things left, major things and things i can think of at least, is exhaust, probly skunk 2 megapower rr since my downpipe is 3in. And then get a half size radiator and figure out how to mount it.
As long as you use a degree wheel to set the cams it don’t matter if the lines match on the gears anymore. You would need to get some adjustable cam gears to reset everything though. Mine was about a 1/2-3/4 to tooth off and nobody could give me a straight answer about what to do. I found out as long as you lock vtec then set the lower assembly to the degrees required by the cams , then you can just spin the cam gear to find max lift. It’s actually a easy process, especially if the motor is out of the car.
Ya thats kinda what im thinking , i really only see those tucked radiators on show cars, not street cars. And it would make sense it would heat soak your intercooler being so close. Ill probly go w a skunk2 or koyorad dual core radistor, seems pretty easy to install too using one of the stock bottom mounts from what i understand. Ya that would make sense rotating it, but i think ill wait till its in the car and everything is tight and fully adjusted to see if it can just be rotated or i do have to cut it.
And i got the sandwich plate rotated to where i cna just screw it in, just waiting on a -8 plug to plug the other port on the sandwich plate.
Its a pte 5431e, rated for 500 hp.
Thinking about runnng an oil pressure gauge so till up my 3rd gauge in the pillar. Want to obviously keep the stock one for the ecu to read. Ive heard about people removing the small allen fitting bekow the distributor and installing it there, jas anyone done this? Tbh only reason im really looking at a 3rd gauge is cuz all the 2 gauge pillar pods seem to come bot painted where as i can get a 3 gauge pillar in grey to match my interior. Unless someone knows of one i haven't seen yet.
I'm running a GE sandwich plate - one port for the oil pressure gauge, and the other port for the turbo feed. Dummy light sensor is still in the original location.
05-11-2019, 10:42 AM
Re: Boostedjd's Prospective GS-R turbocharger build thread
