03EM2guy

well i had a gsr with itr pistons and rods, arp rod bolts, stock hg, arp head studs, stock b16 head and cams. cr ~ 11.0:1
t3/t4 .50 trim turbo, log mani, s300, rc550
got it tuned
made 297whp/220ftlbs @ 10.5psi

right after leaving the dyno, hit the interstate and ran my buddys 300z 17psi... and won! lol
went to run again from a 60 roll and this time i decided to break boost ... right when i let off the brake it bucked like a fuel or boost cut so i let off and went to get back in it... it did the same thing so i pushed in the clutch and saw the oil light come on as i cut it off and coasted to the side of the interstate. big trail of blue smoke oil all over back bumper, trunk and on car behind me, after looking more there was a hole in the back of the block but no coolant everywhere still full...

havnt took it apart yet but i think it was an iffy tune, free tune from an experienced nissan guy who wanted some experience on hondata .... yea yea i know....

if anybody wants to give their input on why they think the motor blew feel free


rebuild
the turbo right now is a godspeed (im looking to get a 5857 down the road)
i want to get cp pistons 9.8:1 and eagle h-beams
i will probably be using a gsr block and crank ...if the gsr crank i have now (not in the blown motor) is bad then i will probably opt for a ls crank

this is my car i drive everyday, i want to do pump gas and maybe a water/meth down the road but not right now
im really looking into sleeving it but im not really sure what are some good brand names for sleeves
so stock gsr sleeves hold till around 450? ..if i wanna make over 350 hopefully closer to 400 on pump i should probably sleeve it right?
and as far as headgaskets go, it will probably be good to go with a cometic hg?

also would i need to step up injector size like 750 or 1000cc?

would it be better with the eagle rods to run acl bearings or honda bearings?

sanman000719

hole in the back of the block but no coolant = broke a rod lol and when it broke i wanted ot see what was on the outside of the engine so it decided to take the block with it

i want to get cp pistons 9.8:1=great idea+ good rods not stock

ive had a gsr block hold=550+ on stock internals.

i think you might have been doomed from the beginning iy sounds like you took used itr parts and threw them in a gsr block, and i personally think this is a nono once you breal used stock stuff loose throw it away dont reuse it lol you dont know if there was a hariline crack that became worse or not man.

eagle rods/cp pistons/gsr crank arp maint and rod bolts and good to go man

quickhondaz

I have to agree with sanman, your build was doomed from the start. even if you had a perfect tune on it, you were just sitting on a grenade with the pin pulled. using a used GSR block (not boring it) and putting used ITR pistons in it was like trying to put a square peg in a rectangular hole and expecting it to work.
don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to flame you,just giving input on where you went wrong. As for the new build, I again agree with sanman, GSR block (fresh bore this time if not sleeved), your choice in pistons, eagle rods with big bolts, and time spent to make sure all the clearances are correct and you will be good to go. maybe even throw in some descent cams to make that stock head breath a little.

Natural Aspirations

I'm going to have to blame the tune mores than the compression and construction although they were not ideal for a boosted engine.

0Golden Eagle

Sorry for your loss. I can hook you up on a LS core if you need. Your head is still good at least.

Sleeve it bro and your good to go.
G.E. sleeves
Eagle rods H beam
CP pistons or Arias pistons 9.5:1
Final hone 84.5mm
Copper ''O'' ring groove
G.E. girdle
Line bore
Balance rotating assembly
A-1 head studs
G.E. CNC cut Honda OEM head gasket.

''Good to go and boost up to 60 psi.''

''PM for a price quote''

Ballin_Ben

it didnt have over 5k on that gsr/itr bottom end

i bored it .020 over with brand new pistons and rods and turned the crank .025
she was new
haha yea i knew a rod broke lol... just tryin to figure out why ...and i guess i wont really know till i tear it apart ..
o ..yea def gonna do arp mainstuds this time

quickhondaz... yea, also down the road, i would like to do cams ...prob something like ctr/itr or s2 pro1s but not at this time

my plan is to get the block back together, tune it, paint, then get new turbo, cams, water/meth, then tune again

as for the 11.0:1 cr i was gonna go all motor ...had a tri-y and intake and was going to do a stock motor build...putting in cams later on but i decided to swap my turbo kit over from my crx at the last second...

golden eagle- i will check out the gsr block and crank that i got for free , one thing i dont like is somebody screwed a bolt that was too long into the hole for the a/c bracket and broke a piece off on the inside of the block .....but originally it threw out a thrust washer.
i guess ill take it to a machine shop and have them check it out.

so GE sleeves and hg? i will pm you within the next couple days
little confused ... copper O ring grove?
also it would be a good idea to upgrade the girdle? stock gsr not good enough?

03EM2guy

oops ^^thats me ...wrong name

..but also what about bearings?
and what injector size should i step up to?

with everything listed stock head on pump gas what boost levels would i expect to run? 12-15psi or more?

sanman000719

oring is a great way to create a tighter seal between the head, and block resulting in less h.g. issues

03EM2guy

ooooh oring hg... how hard is that to do? whould the machinest do it?
dont know a whole lot about how its actually done.... do they make an oring grove in the block and head?

sanman000719

nono lol you still use a h.g. but you also use copper wire as an oring you lay the gasket down put the wire in the correct spot and walla like wearing a double ply condom man twice as safe haha

Ballin_Ben

herd that lol ..is it easy to mess up? like do you have to get it perfect on there?

sanman000719

no clue never done it lol

just read on here how to

03EM2guy

is there like a kit for em?

racebum

where did the rod break? when you pulled them to do the itr pistons the first time i couldn't help but wonder if you switched out the rod bolts. rod bolts are probably the most stressed connector in an engine.

03EM2guy

i havnt pulled the motor apart yet but i put arp rod bolts in and had them resized

03EM2guy

the motor had a rod knock before i put itr stuff in and turned the crank and bored it...

03EM2guy

i will check out the gsr block and crank that i got for free , one thing i dont like is somebody screwed a bolt that was too long into the hole for the a/c bracket and broke a piece off on the inside of the block .....but originally it threw out a thrust washer.

^^after hearing that, anybody think i should just scrap that block and not even consider it?

also..

quickhondaz

the thrust washer getting thrown may be an issue but I would let the maching shop check it first before you condemn it. as for the injector size, it's really up to what compression ratio you will have, how much boost you plan to run but a good guess would be nothing smaller than a 750cc, just to be on the safe side. you can usually pick up a good set of RC 750s for a pretty decent price on here or just look around and see what's out there. ID1000s would assure that you may not need injectors for quite some time unless you plan on ALOT of boost. as for cams, I would personally go with the S2 pro-1s for a street build cause they make pretty damn good power on even a small amount of boost. but that's just my opinion, others may say different, but always research what you want and what your budget will allow and go from there. but remember, you get what you pay for...

SovXietday

Eh, you forgot one small little detail that's rather important.

Golden Eagle machines a groove for the copper to go in, you can't just lay it on top lol.

Note - picture shows the groove only, I don't think these are GE sleeves.

03EM2guy

yea i will get that block checked out by the machine shop...

so with my stock head, eagle h-beam rods, 9.8 cp pistons, and gsr crank
and a power goal of 325-350 on pump gas (will be looking for more of course once i do some headwork/cams then maybe 400)
would it be nessesary to sleeve it? or would i be fine with stock sleeves?

..thanks for clearing that up ..i was curious about the oring groove

03EM2guy

o and as far as compression goes it will be 9.8:1 pistons w/ b16 head ...and just want safe boost, it gonna be my daily

sanman000719

ahh so ots dummy proof lol i like that

quickhondaz

you should be fine with the stock sleeves with the power goal you are looking for as long as your tune is good. I made 330whp with a stock sleeve B16 with springs and retainers and GSR cams, on 14psi with pump gas running it a little rich (about 10.8:1 afr). I did have a block guard in it for a little insurance but that will never replace sleeving.

0Golden Eagle

Here is a link to the O ring install directions.

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/includ...INGINSTALL.pdf

vwbased

have a nice day