SiBuddy00

Well, blew the ring lands on the #3 cylinder on the dyno today. B16A2 bottom end. Was tuned up to 10 pounds and then let go at 12.5 pounds. Was tuned good up to 10 pounds (didn't get enough runs to tune on the 12.5) and the map was saved. I was told that if I switch out the block for another B16A2 bottom end that the map with the 10lb tune will work just fine. Never thought it worked like this but maybe I'm wrong? Everything will be the same except with a swapped out bone stock block for another bone stock block. Please no recommendations for building anything, I am broke and only have another spare B16A2 bottom end in my possession. I trust my tuner and he is very credible, just looking for some extra insurance or an explanation on how this would work? Thanks!

jarvis199

no one is going to tell u youll be perfectly fine, but from my experience, if the block u were on had weak comp or leakdown numbers, then the tune wont be the same...'

what kind of power numbers did it make at 10psi? what was the total timing and target afr? just asking, because u also wanna make sure itw asnt some sort of hardware/software failure that caused the blown motor, because then youll just blow ur spare too!

grndcont

might end up with 2 busted blocks that way. i would always re-tune after a change, even if they are thought to be the same part. what's more expensive? a quick check on the dyno or a third block?

jarvis199

shoot, not even a check on the dyno, at least have ur tuner put the wideband in and check afr's and maybe back timing out a degree or two to keep it safe if u absolutely cant afford dyno time!

Hybrid96EK

Things like this never made sense to me...

"I have no money, but I want to push my stock bottom end PAST 10psi because 10psi just isn't good enough... but I don't have any money"

If you have no money, then why are you rolling the dice? 10psi is fine. I am sure the car was quick on 10psi and it obviously was a little "on the edge" even at that level. Why not be thankfull for what you had and not greedy and in need of more for the time being?

Yes, you should be able to simply swap the blocks and be "good". Good meaning back where you started from.

th3pwn3r

Lol, the OP is broke so he's trying to save a penny to end up spending hundreds. Makes plenty of sense.

SiBuddy00

I'm sure I'm not the only person on a "budget" who is greedy and wants more power. I have been driving boosted on 7lbs for 2 years and wanted some more power. I can't afford to sit on the dyno for another 2 hours is more what I was going for and am going back to school soon and won't have the time or a location to do any big jobs such as swapping motors and whatnot. Its more like savings hundreds and hundreds vs pennies. Another hour or two on the dyno would cost more than another B16 shortblock. 12lbs was going to be my max. Anyways, at 10lbs the AF's were kept at 12.5 give or take ~.1 or .2 and the timing was ran conservative. He as wearing a set of earphones hooked up to the motor listening for pinging and there wasn't any. I don't have the sheet on hand at the moment but off memory the car made roughly 258whp 179lb-tq at 10 pounds. I would really like to check it out with my tuner after the car is done but he lives roughly 130 miles from my house.

Bseriescivic5

there is NOTHING cheap about making power, PERIOD. You have to pay to play, simple as that. Put your spare block in and leave it at 10lbs while you source out a good set of pistons rods, and can start building that busted block.

blaze the chemi

And it might also keep you from buying a third shortblock. If the new shorty is close to what you had before it should take the tuner less than an hour to check everything, keep your tune at 10psi, retard timing a bit to make sure the tune is more conservative, and be on your merry way.

Where are you getting these shortblocks for less than $150-300?

jarvis199

sounds like u need to get those afr's down a little more, thats pretty hgih compression to be running mid 12:1's...

what do u consider conservative timing? shoot, at least have ur tuner do a 1* per psi retard (starting at abotu 26* at total timing at 0), and shoot for an 11.5:1 afr, u would have been able to run 12psi easily (altho without a boost cut on stock map), and plenty safe...

u guys are all looking at it kind of odd, its not about him being cheap and wanting more power, if his tuner had gave him some room for error in the tune it would have been fine, but at 12.5:1 afr's, theres really no room for error on a stock b16! it also depends greatly on what kinda timing he was running...

TorquelessEM1

When I was boosted my #1 rule was ALWAYS have enough cash on hand to cover a motor,tune,or whatever may break.As soon as I couldn't afford to replace a motor,the damn blower came off that weekend.