mikej94civex

i'm sure this is all over here, but i cannot find info via searching,would t'ing into the fpr line work fine? i was told to do that as well as run my boost gauge to the same t..

mikej94civex

so t into the fpr vaccuum line, and run the boost gauge and bov off of that, good idea yes or no...

Slosc2

I T'd into the brake cylinder.

mikej94civex

for both bov and boost gauge? and how is it working so far..

Seraph0

Drill and tap the manifold for a new fitting.

Any of your ideas for the BOV line will work just fine though.

Schister66

You can drill and tap the IM for another vac port, but you'll want to remove it from the head before drilling into it. The last thing you want is a handful of metal shavings to end up in the cylinders. The easier solution to this problem is to buy a vacuum manifold and T it into the brake booster line. Like this \/ below \/

dpetro1

lol, this is now the second time you've showed the OP this pic, apparently he doesnt get it

mikej94civex

umm ya it's hard to understand things u've nvr heard of so get off my back, and for the guys actually
tryin to help me, thanks, and i have seen those on ebay, so t that into a current vaccuum source (brake cylinder/fpr)
then run my bov/boost gauge off of that piece? is it that simple?

jdm inc

iTrader: (11)

yes T that into a vacuum source. hook everything up to that piece. Then its done.

mikej94civex

now on a vaccuum block, for the left over barbs not bein used for an accesory, can i just cap
them off? or what should i do for them..

jdm inc

iTrader: (11)

usually on some of the vacuum block you only drill out the ones you need. thats how it was on my golden eagle one.

slowhitEJ1

i didn't have any left over on mine.. and i mounted in on the firewall.. run your brake booster line to the big port on the side and T that line off to the manifold..
1 will go to your wastegate/boost controller
1 will go to your boost gauge
1 will go to your BOV
1 will go to your PCV if you still have one
1 will go to to your map sensor if it's a GM style..
the FPR i ran off of the manifold because it's just a 6" line, and i capped off the large bung that used to run to the PCV valve.. looks alright and i'd rather have the line on the mani capped than the one on the vacuum log.. good luck!

dpetro1

more info on vacuum lines
https://honda-tech.com/search.php?searchid=6475077
vacuum manifolds
https://honda-tech.com/search.php?searchid=6475100
bov routing
https://honda-tech.com/search.php?searchid=6475113
tips on how to effectively use the search function
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-use-honda-tech-search-engine-2588951/

i think by reading you would understand what vacuum is and why its needed and how it makes things function properly. instead if people just tell you how to hook it up you are just following insructions and not really knowing why you are doing it. then if something goes wrong or isnt working you wont know why. im not trying to "get on your back", i really am trying to help. hell i think i have a vacuum mani laying around my garage somewhere, id be happy to sell it to you.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Alot of BOV's require a dedicated line for proper operation. I run my Trubosmart Raceport bov off the front nipple where the pcv used to go and have no troubles. When i tried to tee it in with other things it didnt work well. Also same trouble with a greddy type rs. they both worked much better with their own vacuum source. I've personally found vacuum blocks not all they are cracked up to be. to much sharing of the vacuum. its always best for everything top have its own source or split as little as possible

Schister66

By the way, the FPR vac line on my setup is a little different than most simply because the intake manifold is a little goofy.

1. Tap the brake booster line on the engine side of the backflow valve
2. Insert T fitting and run line to vac manifold
3. Run your wastegate (tial will hate me for this), bov and boost gauge from this source...you may choose to incorporate more lines into this one spot, but that is all you should need beyond what is accounted for on the stock IM

Now...some vac manifolds are different than others. Mine came with 5 holes already threaded in it. There were barbed fittings and plugs; therefore, i plugged the holes i didnt use. As for the GE manifold, i guess you need to drill out the holes for desired fittings which eliminates plugging extra holes.

You're a little over-cautious about this setup which is good, but dont be afraid to dig into your project...even if it is a little over your head at times. Thats how we all learned. For example, my first clutch swap was a complete winger. I knew where the clutch was obviously and how to remove IT, but no idea how to go about getting to it. In the end, i figured it out and learned a great deal. That's what you need to do with this project...dig in

mikej94civex

thanks all, great information...i'm ordering a vaccuum block from ebay,unlike
the golden eagle one it has barbs already with holes pre-drilled so that's
why i asked about capping them off...anyways so to make this clear for myself
this idea will not work, vaccuum block t'd into fpr line and all other sources
ran from the vac block?
i kno u guys provided other, and probly beeter ideas but this is how i wanna do it
if it will work, thanks!

kyden

golden eagle ones don't have the holes drilled. you have to drill them out.

dpetro1

no this will not work. the fpr line is only like 1/8". way too small to feed all the other sources. the brake booster line is like 3/8" or 1/2" and provides a strong source for the vacuum mani to feed the other accessories.

in the end the vac mani is just a giant tee but it looks cleaner than cutting into lines and using seperate tees to each item.

Schister66

The FPR line is just too small to be used as a source feeding at least 2 other accessories. This is why the larger brake booster line is used as a reference. If you're worried about compromising your braking ability, you won't change anything...even a rupture in the line is manageable. The brake booster has a certain amount of vacuum stored in it in case of line failure. Just be sure to cut on the ENGINE SIDE of the backflow valve and you'll be fine.

Just to clarify: The FPR line WILL NOT work

jdm inc

iTrader: (11)

x2

mikej94civex

umm, ok i am not gettin a golden eagle vac block, anyways can someone post a pic of where
exactly to t into the booster line at plz, thanks!

dpetro1

do we need to whipe your *** too?

mikej94civex

that's funny, but not right it's real easy to make fun of someone that doesn't understand somethin that u do...i undertsnad that the pic on here posted and quoted several times
shows the routing...what i do not get is where that aqua blob is, is that where i t into? i am gettin
mixed messages u guys keep quoting this pic and sayin o he doesn't get it...well obviously
i'm lookin for an explanation not a pic, so can someone that's actually goin to help, explain what i
do where this aqua blotch is...THANKS

dpetro1

you didnt look at the pic i posted, its edited with 4 blue arrows showing where the t goes. the aqua blotch is the brake booster check valve. as Schister66 has said a few times, the tee goes between that and the intake manifold. pop the hood, you will see the check valve that we are referring too.

mikej94civex

ok, thanks i get it now, those blue arrows i missed, the baby gettin fed thru me off, thanks again
appreciate it!