CTR-GSR

I drive a 98 Civic EX SOHC VTEC and am planning to purchase a turbo kit. Would it be better to turbo the D16 or buy a new B16A and turbo that motor. I have a realy good deal on the Si Motor, i think around 1000 for a 40000 mile motor. Which motor is better for turbo?

Quad-Damag

or spend the 1000 bucks on the b16 and turbo your D16 and make more power then just the swap
but then agian with D Series
they have a few problems
upgrade your headstuds
upgrade your raditor and fan
Don't BLOW UP your headgasekt they can run 10 psi on a good tune and make 200whp, witch makes them a very fun daily driver.

Jwbetley

ls motor

JDM_Risa

iTrader: (1)

d-series boost is not that bad...my friend with a sohc vtec cheap turbo setup about 1500 makes about 180-190@8psi 14b spoolinperformance...a/c compartible and spoolin downpipe and spoolin upper and lower i/c which is not bad for d16 plus that motor is already equipped in your car and price to replace one opposed to a b-series engine is alot cheaper....

but LS motor boosted yields great gains too....moderate peak power and torquey at the same time...

darkdayz

I say weigh your options/ and search because there are people out there with 400 and now 500 hp turbocharged d series motors

CTR-GSR

I agree but my friend is a retard. Plus, I dont think u want to go boost with a B16, waste of motor...

1700anddroping

then i guess you havn't seen the rlz 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile video..check that out and get back to me.


harv

Jonny Black

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR-GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think u want to go boost with a B16, waste of motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>


what kinda nonsence is this?

OMG B16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR-GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree but my friend is a retard. Plus, I dont think u want to go boost with a B16, waste of motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your kidding right?

CTR-GSR

If I was going to go turbo, Id rather spend the money on my D16, with the money I save from not doing the swap, I can do much more to the D16.

Phil Koury

Here's a link to very good daily driver D-Series setup.

http://www.epictuning.com/91civicsi.html

Link to the dyno graph is in the description. 258whp/218tq stock everything.

turbosnatch

u guys might not agree with me but ls imho is the better boosted motor. d series are cheap yes but who wants to get eaten up by eg hatches with mildly built type r and gsr swaps.

OMG B16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR-GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was going to go turbo, Id rather spend the money on my D16, with the money I save from not doing the swap, I can do much more to the D16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And make 100whp less. .

SpdFrk

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR-GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree but my friend is a retard. Plus, I dont think u want to go boost with a B16, waste of motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do think a b16 is a waste of a motor? Seems to me like u need to do alot of research.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sick00SiCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And make 100whp less. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

You totally pulled that number out of your ***.

OMG B16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You totally pulled that number out of your ***. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well duh, everybody's set-up is different, but what do you say the safe amount of hp is on a D16 compared to a B16? I'd guess around 100whp.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sick00SiCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well duh, everybody's set-up is different, but what do you say the safe amount of hp is on a D16 compared to a B16? I'd guess around 100whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I were to answer that then I would be pulling a number out of my *** as well, especially since I don't have more specifics. D16's are almost as capable as B Series though. There are a bunch of 500+hp D16's on the street now.

tannerLSt

get an LS motor and boost it!!!!!!!!

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were to answer that then I would be pulling a number out of my *** as well, especially since I don't have more specifics. D16's are almost as capable as B Series though. There are a bunch of 500+hp D16's on the street now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup

oscarmayer

ok lets do some math.
B16A swap = about $1600 for everything done right including new timing belt and such.

Nice good turbo setup for D16 that will make over 200 wheel power, same price.

B16a wheel power maybe 135-140? (lucky)
turbo D 200+ if professionally tuend.

who will win??? SAME $ spend.........

oscarmayer

i'd say "SAFE" numbers for a boosted STOCK b16 is about 265-285 wheel power
D16= 225-250 (milage dependant).

not too far off. given the weight of both setups (drive lines and such), races would be VERY close. it would be all driver pretty much then.

Cons.
B16= higher hp but torque would be lower than it could be
D16= thinner walled block with weaker pistons less boost capable.

pros=
B16 breaths very well and revs higher
D16= longer stroke give it AWESOME torque which help balance it out.

again CLOSE race to me guys....

fastrunner

have t3/t4 b16 turbo, cant complain, would rather have the B than the D, its better to tune with(dohc) and built better. Not to mention the B series fills the engine bay sooo much nicer

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
D16= thinner walled block with weaker pistons less boost capable.

pros=
B16 breaths very well and revs higher
D16= longer stroke give it AWESOME torque which help balance it out.

again CLOSE race to me guys....</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock d series rods cant hold ****, they are way too skinny. its usually the rod that breaks on these, not the piston

my stock D series rods to the left
and on B series, the rods are a little thicker, but the piston usually gives



my ctr piston with too much nitrous (ls vtec)
i say if your gonna turbo get pistons and rods, build the D series, for less money, youll have a lighter, better handling car if you go all the way with the turbo. and still have plenty of power. the only diff left is like the dude says, the B series walls are thicker, but if your gonna push power, you gotta sleve it...

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only diff left is like the dude says, the B series walls are thicker, but if your gonna push power, you gotta sleve it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait a second, I could swear they were the same thickness. Not sure, but I do know they're the same material. The other factor is that they are smaller bore, meaning the sleeves have less surface area, meaning less stress on the walls between teh two (theoreticly). What I do know for sure is that there have been a few 300-400whp d16's using stock sleeves.


Traditional reasoning doesn't take into account that most D16's are picked to save cash, and aren't always tuned perfectly. They are also left stock more often, which also leads to a higher percentage blowing up. Bad tunes on stock parts are what give D16's a rep for grenading.


Back OT, the best stock block to boost IMO is the b18b1. Best performance-to-price factor, stock it can make enough power to overwhelm most peoples' suspentions. For first time boosting, I'd suggest the D16. If you blow it, a quick $400 will get you running in a day. You can also boost it, then swap later & keep the setup w/minor modifications (besides ex. manifold). I'd say boost the D16, buy&build another D16 bottomend, and have a 300hp-capible motor for ~$600 (block/vitaras/eagles/studs) in parts.

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait a second, I could swear they were the same thickness. Not sure, but I do know they're the same material. The other factor is that they are smaller bore, meaning the sleeves have less surface area, meaning less stress on the walls between teh two (theoreticly). What I do know for sure is that there have been a few 300-400whp d16's using stock sleeves[/I]</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah they are smaller bore by far, but the thing is, its still a 1.6, so the rods are longer. longer rods = more torque. i think ive put LS rods in a D16 before to make them stronger. i think the D16 is the same rod length as the B18 non-vtec , maybe thats something to think about when you go turbo, use LS rods?

and ill go home and measure the thicknesses of the walls cause i have both motors sitting there naked

i also agree that the LS motor (with head work) is the best for Turbo cause no Vtec is one less factor. but i still would build a single cam just to say i spanked a twin cam : P