ih8danoles

After installing my greddy kit, we started the car and i had a pretty steady oil drip. After a few seconds it started coming a little more and we shut the car off after about 20 seconds and i had already lost probably a 1/2 quart or more. Stupidly, we did the install with no helms, and basically not using the torque wrench anywhere except the manifold. Also, I needed the car to be running pretty bad the next day, and didnt have a new gasket, so we "made" one out of that silicone gasket maker from wal-mart since all the auto stores were closed. I didnt know how low the torque specs were on the oil pan, and I tightened them with a socket wrench about as tight as i could. I wish I would have just done everything right the first time with a manual or more research. Also, I cleaned the oil pan really good before I made the gasket, but did nothing to clean the surface of the motor where the pan goes. Will a brand new gasket, tightened properly solve this problem?

oscarmayer

take everythgin apart, clean everything, use proper gaskets and sealer and put it back to getehr only AFTER yoou have properly cleaned the surfaces not only removing the oil but also using car cleaner to remove the oil residue.
spray soem on a shop towel and whipe the block off and all the palces where any kind of silicon or gasket is going to go.

leadfoot78

u are supposed to use the oil pan gasket AND liquid gasket maker together.

0xenocron

Use the Oil Pan gasket and put some honda bond in choice areas like the corners and were the seal isnt level to help seal up between the gasket and pan.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

do NOT use any kind of sealer, just use the factory gasket and thats it. Tighten all bolts down to 9 ft lbs like the manual says for a b series and you will not have oil problems.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I agree that NO sealer should be used, but I don't even torque my pan to 9 ft-lbs...I hand tighten them and then go back [in the torque pattern] and add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to each nut/bolt. I found that 9 ft-lbs was too much.

Flamenco-T

Everyone is correct, I would put a tiny dab of honda bond around the turn area, but torque it to about 7-8 lb/ft, and you won't have a leak. If you torque it too much, it will leak...trust me

stan

0xenocron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone is correct, I would put a tiny dab of honda bond around the turn area, but torque it to about 7-8 lb/ft, and you won't have a leak. If you torque it too much, it will leak...trust me

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you!

From the man that knows everything there is to know about oil lines Stan

ih8danoles

Okay, today i bought a new gasket and oil is no longer leaking from there. it was pouring a steady stream from around the timing belt cover area. I can't pinpoint the exact spot because it only leaks when the car is on. But it starts pouring the second the car is cranked. If noone can give any ideas tonight im going to take it to a mechanic tomorrow and let him check it out. It's possible that my T-fitting is the problem since i used one from the hardware store, not BSPT. On top of that, I used a somewhat ghetto adapter for the feed line.

ih8danoles

bump before bed.. hope to wake up to some ideas

turbo*s2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone is correct, I would put a tiny dab of honda bond around the turn area, but torque it to about 7-8 lb/ft, and you won't have a leak. If you torque it too much, it will leak...trust me

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

0xenocron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ih8danoles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...it was pouring a steady stream from around the timing belt cover area. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This sounds like a rear main seal to me...but oil could be leaking from your cam plug or distributor where is meets the head and dripping down into that area I guess.

Rear main seal is not a cheap job at the mechanic...it's only an $18 part...but plenty of labor.

ih8danoles

Well if it's only an $18 part, do you think $200 would cover it? Most importantly, do you think most mechanics will be able to find and fix this?

0xenocron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ih8danoles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if it's only an $18 part, do you think $200 would cover it? Most importantly, do you think most mechanics will be able to find and fix this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, they have to drop the tranny, take of the flywheel...pop out the rear main seal and then put everything back together. I think I have heard of people paying &gt;$500 to do it. Generally people replace the rear main seal when doing the clutch.