datspeed77

My car dyno'd in at 240 whp and 248 ft. lbs. torque at 14lbs. The bad dyno is because of the knock sensor retarding my timing. The knock sensor trips my computer because of my JE pistons. I'm removing my knock sensor from the engine, but leaving the wire connected. That way, the sensor can't retard my timing. Has anyone ever done this before? I should at least be at 280-300whp after doing this. Let me know if you guys think it will work.

Arturbo

So your peak torque was before 5252rpm, or can you post the dyno?

datspeed77

My max torque and hp was around 4500. Once the check engine light turned on, the whp and torque went down dramatically.

B20C5 Turbo

The ECU expects to see a particular waveform from the KS even when there is no sign of knock. You can remove the sensor from the block (leaving it connected to the harness) and the ECU may still throw a code. I DO NOT recommend that you try this: The KS is there for a very good reason.

You are most likely suffering from an overly lean or rich condition. It is also possible that your ignition system is not up to the job. Very rarely will an aftermarket piston cause poor dyno results unless machined or installed improperly. If that were the case, you would be able to hear severe piston slap anytime the engine was cold and at idle when hot.

I wish that you could post a copy of your dyno plot along with a list of your fuel and ignition system components. That would help us help you.

sloaccord

thats some hardcore wonky ****, considering marksaccord95 dynoed his turbo h22 at 260 hp on a stock motor at 8 lbs.

first of all, your knock sensor stops doing anything after 3500 rpms.
the knock sensor looks for knock from idle to 3500 rpms, and does this because it's purpose is to protect the engine from cheap gas. it is not a performance knock sensor.
you could remove your knock sensor. but that's not the problem with your car; it's something else.
what you need is HONDATA.
or some sort of engine management.

VaporTrail

spoken like a true padawan learner I agree completely.

datspeed77

Thanks for your help, seems like you know your ****! My ignition system is stock, but I did get the MSD 6A Ignition Amplifier and the Blaster 2 Ignition Coil. The fuel system I'm running is the MF2 Fuel Injector Controller and the V-AFC. I did remove the KS and left the wire on it and grounded it, but you're right, same problem, engine light turns on. I noticed you said that the fuel system can trigger my knock sensor. When the engine light turns on, the code is KS and Fuel supply system. It's very interesting you said that it might be my fuel system. I'll look into it.

datspeed77

The knock sensor actually turns on at about 5,000 Rpm. I talked to one of the honda mechanics and he told me that the knock can turn on at any moment it see's knocking. You might be right about the knock sensor triggering because of another problem though. I try to find out and get back to you guys. I'm installing the MSD ignition and coil.

dustin

i think you mean it turns off

93H22ACX

so wassup datspeed77....how's everything going for you?

spankaveli

i think he means it (his car) starts sensing knock at 5k rpm.

edit: specification


[Modified by spankaveli, 4:16 PM 6/28/2002]

datspeed77

Pretty bad Have to put in my ignition amp and external coil. I have no time. I'll let you guys no what's up after I put it in.

datspeed77

No turns on, as in senses knock.

VaporTrail

no, it doesn't. the Knock sensor does not turn on, it turns off. What are your plugs gapped to?

datspeed77

So when it senses knock, the sensor turns off? That's wierd, I thought it was the other way around. You probably know more than I would. Can it be my ignition system that is making my knock sensor retard my timing? It is a factory set up as of right now. I will be putting in the MSD 6a with the Blaster Coil. Do you think this would help my problem?

trbob16a

Your honda mechanic is incorrect, which doesn't particularly surprise me. Honda ecu's begin ignoring knock between 4200 and 4800 rpm depending on the ecu. The sensor does not turn off, but the signal that is sent to the ecu is simply ignored. It doesn't factor in to ignition or fuel compensation. If your car is throwing a code as a result of low rpm knock, however, it will obviously affect the rest of your performance.

The MSD 6a will probably do between nothing and zero to help your problems. I am a big fan of factory honda ignitions as they can support 450hp without a flinch. What you need is some sort of stand alone that will allow you to tune everything and allow BTR. I recommend returning the msd 6a if possible, buying a hondata 2b + 550cc injectors, and taking it to have it tuned for a few hours. This should cost you around $800 plus tuning. If you can return the msd that will pay for a lot of your tuning costs.

CovertFI

if you get rid of the fm2 and the vafc and the 6a. that should pay for it all!!.

TurboCivicSi

Go Hondata... You can shut down the knock sensor with no CEL..

Not to mention tune another 20 or so HP out of it..

See ya,
Jason

VaporTrail

its not that it turns off when it sees knock, that would mean it doesnt do its job. Its during WOT conditions above ~4300rpm or so the ecu stops recognizing the knock sensor. You are detonating or blowing the spark out, one of the two. You need Hondata or a similar standalone to make big reliable power.