96ekb20

building my b20b stock sleeves. have cp 9:1 pistons arp stock rods converted to full floating super tech block gaurd arp head studs ported p75 head double springs bc62404s skunk pro series intake out of box. 68mm alpha tb. getting 1000cc injectors for e85 aem 320 fuel pump vms stainless cleanable fuel filter.

needing incite on the turbo kit its self.was thinking of getting a ram horn with 38mm tail waste gate 3" down pipe and exhaust 2.5 inch intercooler piping viberant, misimoto, or cx racing intercooler now as far as turbo goes when pushing 400 it only be at the drag strip.. plan on a pump low boost tune for daily. was thinking borg warner s256sx turbo with .63 ar or a 5431 preision or any other under 800 turbo that wont be laggy. thanks ahead of time. tune will be done by chad barber at barber shop performance in Modesto California so tune wont be a problem.

Aradin

All that work and money, too cheap to drop $350 on a set of eagle rods. Smh.

boosted94gsr

I agree just get a set of eagle rods. Forged Pistons on stock rods doesn't make much sense. The rest of the setup looks pretty solid. I'm running a precision 5431e on a non vtec 1.8 and it's pretty responsive on the street. If you haven't bought injectors yet check out injector nation, they use the new ev14 injectors and are reasonably priced.

96ekb20

tunner said forged rods are not needed. when the block gets sleeved a yr or two from now was plaining on alpha rods.

96ekb20

top half is what i have the bottom half is the plans. how much power are you making with it? whats spool time like. Any other turbo recommendation is welcomed. only planing on reving motor to 8k if that so better spool and less max hp is what im after

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Dang every 2 days another one of these threads pops up. They ask for advice, then argue about how there tuner or builder told them different. Why ask then? Also try browsing the hundreds of threads like this that are hanging around.

boosted94gsr

It's street/track tuned so no dyno numbers, but I'm probably making around 370-380whp. 16psi is around 4200-4500rpm and I'm revving to 8k. Honestly im only running the precision because I good a good deal on it used and it fit my goals. You should pm the shodan on here about a turbo. He has quality turbos and will get you the one that fits your needs the best.

Aradin

Why even bother going through the work twice and spending all that extra money? Sleeve it now. Get rods now. Build it once. Build it right. Otherwise you're going to be doing it over and over and over again. Reliable horsepower isn't cheap. Seems to me you're just looking to cut corners because of what your "tunner" said.

96ekb20

how am i arguing i didnt ask for advice about the long block. if your tunner says hes fine with 400whp on stockrods then thats fine with me. and when he has tuned countless 400whp stock long block b20s ill trust his word. so long block isnt changing inless theres going to be a big issue with something i have. rods isnt a problem yes there the weak point of the motor right now. and thats fine.

96ekb20

ya there 740 new which ant to bad. ya was hoping he'd comment his recommendation and his pricing of one of his turbos.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's like the FAQ sticky doesn't even exist...Oh wait.

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

It's like the search button is gone...Oh wait.

Honda-Tech - Search Forums

96ekb20

not cutting a corner just not over build alot is all. stock ls rods arp have held 450 bunch of times. and like ive said the car will only be at that power level 15 times a yr. only going to do it over once after this. and thats when the car becomes a 11.5 index car. so for the time being the long block will be fine. im not going to push it to make 400 if it only want to make 350 then thats what it makes a combo tell you what it wants to do.

Aradin

Best story I ever heard. Can't wait for your next thread entitled "why did I throw a rod" or possibly "I cracked a sleeve lol".

96ekb20

always a possiblity even with eagle rods

96ekb20

boosted 94gsr if youd like to sell it lmk

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Grammar, spelling, and punctuation.... Reading a run-on paragraph is so annoying lol

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Holy ****, you have absolutely no clue what you're doing, or what you're talking about. Just quit while you're ahead. If you want to keep doing this, though, go read the FAQ sticky I handed you. Then read it again. Go to sleep. Wake up tomorrow, read it while you're in the shower. Get Morgan Freeman to record it to a book on CD, and listen to it on your drive to work. During your lunch break, read it again.

Get the hint?

96ekb20

thanks

boosted94gsr

I do think stock rods are stronger then people give them credit for. I'm still running stock rods with arp bolts and beat the **** out of my car with zero problems. I was just recommending doing the rods now while your block is apart is all, because I wish I would have just put forged rods in when I build my block. It's all good man, it's your car to build the way you want it.

96ekb20

YUP THATS WHAT MR SUPER MAN DOESN'T GET PLUS IM NOT ASKING FOR LONG BLOCK BUILD HELP. JUST LOOKING FOR TURBO SUGGESTIONS AND SEEING IF THE INTERCOOLERS I CHOSE WOULD WORK OR IS THE WASTE GATE WAS BIG ENOUGH OR IF THE INJECTOR OR FUEL PUMP SIZE WAS CORRECT. BUT SEEM ILL JUST STICK WITH MY 5431 AS PLANED.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Literally all of this information that you're begging to have spoon fed to you is available in the FAQ sticky, which I have now pointed you towards three times. Had you searched, you would also know that all of those intercooler options are ****. That's also the second time that I have referred you to the search function. Wastegate sizing? Also in the FAQ sticky. Injector and pump sizing? Also in the FAQ sticky (I know, because I'm the one who made the thread). Also, had you put in just a modicum of effort into searching, you would have realized that Precision turbos are ****.

Aradin

He shouldn't have any questions anyway. His tunner knows everything.

96ekb20

IN YOUR FAQ THING DIDNT SEE ANYTHING ABOUT INTERCOOLERS. HOW ARE MISIMOTO ****? OR VIBRANT? I COULD SEE THE CX BEING CALL **** BUT IDK ABOUT HOW THOSE ARE.

96ekb20

IVE ALREADY CALCULATED THE INJECTORS USING RC INJECTOR CALCULATOR. YES IVE HEARD PRECISION ARENT THE BEST DUE TO THE FACT BY THE TIME THEY NEED REBUILT THERES NO PARTS TO REBUILD THEM. BUT HAVENT HEARD ANYTHING ELSE ABOUT THEM.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Turn off caps lock...

Here's the thing with forged pistons on stock rods...

We all know the weak link with stock internals is the cast piston ringlands. When you replace the OEM with stronger forged pistons but use stock rods then the weak link is the rods. Consider this. When a stock piston cracks a ringland it's a fairly benign failure. Typically a good home or slight overbore and you're on your way. When a stock rod fails it's going to kill everything in its path (sleeves, crank, water jacket) and then depending on where in the stroke it broke the piston could damage the cylinder head beyond use as well and then the remains of the rod will exit the engine via the side of the block, oil pan, or both.

That failure would require finding a new shortblock or possibly an entire engine vs a stock piston ringland failure just needing new pistons. Tell me which one costs more money and time? Now think about how you could avoid all of that **** by spending a relatively small amount of money on a set of forged rods...

There's a reason you never see anyone who's trying to make decent power run forged pistons on stock rods. Don't be an idiot and cut corners. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.