dhautorepair

Hey guys i have a b18c1 with 70k on it. It came out of my 94 gsr all original. I Got it from an old couple Friends of the family. Any way I pulled the motor and started striping the motor bay sanding it and getting ready spaying it. The motor is very clean surprisingly no excessive carbon build up in exhaust vales / pistions and combustion chamber. i tore down the block extremely clean i am plastigauging and checking crank bore and what not this weekend Any way. i am looking for i nice daily driver (short drive to work) 400whp hi boost 300hp low boost. I will start with the motor where i am at now. I plan on going with Stock sleeves Bored .020 over to mach my pistions. deck the block, hot tank and micro polish My crank. Oem matched Crank and rod bearing,s
Egal gsr rods , CP 9.0:1 .020 pistons and prity much a stock top end cometic head gasket and Spring,s and retainers ( any Recommendations on getting new Valves?? is it worth it? )

i no that tuning is essential and goes hand and hand with reliability i am just wondering if i am on the right track for my motor portion of it . Until i get in to my injectors, intake , flue pump , regulator , 3 bar map , boost buy gear solenoid , turbo , Manifold, ext

b20vtech

you seem to be on the right track, what turbo though?
usually I recommend my customers to get new valves because these 15-20 year old valves can be pretty fatigue already. A new set of Oem or Ferrea valves are in my favorite list.

dhautorepair

Well that is a nother delema for me i have been doing a lot of resurch and can seem to find a good way to determin witch one i should use for a quick spool rate (but no to quick still whant a lil time to get traction but i whant it to have full boost at 4500-5500) and a decent psi hold with out surging im not going crazy with 600 hp im onley looking for 3-400 whp but from what i have read im looking at a t3/t4 with a .60ar i am still really fuzzy on the idea of what to base your turbo selection on wether it be the amount of exaust flow or the rpm;s that the motor makes or the psi that i would like it to make maybe some one can clear that up for me to ?

b20vtech

I would suggest a gt3076R if you have the funds. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on that for you, Shodan where you at??

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you got it all down I'm doing the exact same with my motor now. I'm going with a higher compression though 10:1 or higher not sure yet.

DirtyDA9

For the crank, before you plastigauge it and stuff, use a micrometer to make sure all the journals are in spec, especially before buying bearings.. Check for scores on the journals, they are like little cuts, if your fingernail catches in it, it needs to be cut.

And it's highly unlikely that you will need to deck the block, unless you are doing it for compression purposes, which I doubt because you are boosting it.

rich7777

TheShodan's Silver Surfer turbo should work well. I'll drop him a pm with a link to this thread so he can chime in. In the mean while take a look at CaliforniaDad's build thread. There's loads of good info in there that will put you on the right track.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is just the page of Californiadad's dyno run with 91 octane and meth/water since they have lower octane. The OP's results may be different depending upon his location in the US or other countries.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...951496&page=14

His build sheet includes the silver surfer Garrett turbocharger. But you need to know if you want to keep A/C, and Power steering, if you want the 400whp on 91+ octane or another fuel. A GT3076R is nice, but there are other alternatives since this is indeed a "street" car.

Let's know more about what you plan to do with this car, (No E.Ts), chassis, suspension, use of the car, etc.. that way we can get a better idea of what he's truly looking for.

dhautorepair

Wow i love all the support guys. But First off maybe i used the wrong term. i am just going to skim The block a Slight amount to get an extremely nice gasket seat. correct me if I'm wrong? and as far as what i am going to use it for is prity much going to Honda day and small car shows around my daily driver and im most likely going to beat the ***** off of it half of the timme because that's why im building it to have a daily driver to have fun on week ends and wen a cocky VW pulls up. but as far as the rest of the car goes im planing on full tokico coiovers and struts. H brace under front end Up grade my stock Front strut bar ad a rear Strut bar Most likely Lca's and rear sub frame and tie bar the normal adj upper control arms and rear camber kit. and full energy bushing kit. stock Gsr swirls with 205/55/15
some decent good years. oh and i am in the Pocono mt's pa very high elevation. and ya its taken that snap on guy 3 weeks the get me my mic set ridicules i say lol. and I'm a Lil lost i looked around is this a Garret turbo ? or a custom built turbo i cant seem to find any new ones ?
and i will be running 93 thats the best avalible around.

DirtyDA9

Use a soft cookie cutter disc on a die grinder to clean up the deck surface.

As for turbo's, I would look into a new Precision turbo, they are more advanced and "state of the art" with there shafts and wheels, very hightech metals.

I live about an 1 and 1/2 hours south of the pocano's btw!

blackeg

You can also easily achieve your goals with a regular old journal bearing 57 trim w/.63 exhaust housing. Its not as fancy or high tech but will get the job done for cheaper. You can also get that deck surface clean with a grey scotchbrite. Just go easy with whatever abrasive you use. Once cleaned up hit it up woth a straight edge and feeler gauges to ched for warping.

For the plastigauge results, my personal experience says to shoot for. 0015 to. 002 for tolerences. .0015 and under seem to wear very quickly even though its still within factory specs.

You can get new valves but if yours aren't warped or worn just clean them up and reuse them. Oe valves seem to be pretty strong for an oem part. Im using oem valves from a b16 head from the 90s. 500hp, moderate antilag settings at the track and have no issues

DirtyDA9

Yea he will have no problem with any old standard Garret, SCM, PTE etc... Still great turbo's.
I think a Disco Potato (gt28) would be perfect for your build.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You gotta know the BUDGET of the turbocharger first, as you're looking at $1100 as opposed to something a bit more reasonable. The standard Garrett for a first time user will be more than adequate.

DirtyDA9

I was just using that as a size reference. He will probably end up using one of those "hybrids" t3/t4, not a fan...

dhautorepair

well you guys are awsome ill take your advice and run with it ill post some good pix when i get in to the build :-) Thanks guys

dhautorepair

oh and dirtyda9 your close do you no any really good tuners around and if so what they perfer to tune on ?

DirtyDA9

First state motorsports right in deleware, it's 5 minutes from my house. The owners name is Dan, great guy, just call and set it up. He prefers to tune with Hondata.

http://fsmoto.net/

dhautorepair

Hey guys im checking all my main bearings and rod bearings
here's my findings im prity confused on how i am going to select my main and rod bearings im on the evans tunning wright up about it but it dosent make sense to me
the chart they have posted with stock bearing with's witch are measured to .0001" the mic the guy uses in the wright up reads to onley .01 mm or .001"




Cap side crank bearing thickness

1- 2.02
2- 2.01
3- .2.01mm
4- 2.01mm
5 -2.02mm

using thees bearing i plastiguaged
they all fell within .spec except no5 that came out to .002

FYI the motor was a low mi b18c1 motor and had no mechanical issues tic's tap's ext it was strong just rebuilding for boost

so i try and use there method use the bearing thick ness if you like the reading or adjust slightly for desired spec with mine coming in at .2.02 how can i determine whether i should use. Blue 2.013-2.010 or Black 2.010-2.007 but tech nicley speeking both bearing's do not match the bearing i have
any help would be awsom maybe im just stupid and over thinking things or i misread something Thanks guys !!!

Whiterice-gsr

for your application i would go with a 57 trim a gt3076r of course is ideal but pricey pricey and if u decide u love turbo u can always upgrade later, i also wouldnt bother with the valves yet just springs, your bottom end build sounds like exactly what im gonna have to do to get to 450 but dont forget on a stock block u can easily achieve 300 whp, i recently started a thread about making 400 on a stock block and the consesus was with rod bolts and arp head studs i would be able to handle 400 so take that as a bare minimum upgrade. honestly it really depends on how deep your pockets are so if moneys not an issue fully build it and get 3076r you'll have nuthin but smiles on your face lol.