99civ

Hello All,
I am currently(for the winter) taking apart my 94 hatch/b18b1 and going boost for the Spring. I plan on keeping it middle to mild/extreme because it is my weekend car. Here's a part break down...

-Stock Block(HAVE)
-P&P'd head+3 angle(HAVE now w/ stock valves/retainers/springs/cams)
-t3/t4(HAVE cheap godspeed coming now.., will probably upgrade to something cleaner, t3/t04b or a sc50... money dependent)
-cast or ram mani, dp, etc
-fmic, wg, etc
-rc 440's or DSM's
-3 map sensor
-Vacum Box(EAGLE)
-ectune or neptune get my vote
-guages, fuel pump, oil lines, etc.

GOALS:
-300hp

Questions:
(1) Is a block guard worth it? Hear a lot of people bitching about overheating...
(2) When I pull my head, which I will for the new, might as well go ahead and replace the head gasket? Use copper spray/bond or no?
(3) Is it necessary for me to re-surface the block since I'm pulling the head?
(4) Is it "dumb" to run stock valvetrain on a p&p'd head? It will obviously flow more, right?
(5) Better yet, what mild cams can run on stock valvetrain?

ANY help, appreciated. I have googled all of this plenty of times with little prevail. I want to sit down and do a decent budget build for my weekend warrior. I have no big goal aspirations, but real ones. I want to have a good looking honda, almost a classic(in 2 years according to OHIO), that can run a straight line and in a turn. Thanks again.

eaz_e

Sounds similar to me some years ago, but I was starting on a greddy kit. So here's my 2cents. My advice to you is probably getting a little big bigger of an injector because it will allow for improvement later on. I picked up 680cc's for 200$ with 500miles on them. My experience with a 3bar map was no good, so I highly suggest you fork out that extra cash and get a 4bar Hondata. (Don't make the mistake I did) Tune the car with a Hondata as well. The TUNE MAKES OR BREAKS IT! Most CRUCIAL part of TURBO!

(1) I'm not running a block guard, and I feel it's an optional part.

(2) If you pull the head, yes you are going to want to change the head gasket and headstuds to eliminate any chance of head lift. I used Copper Spray with an OEM gasket and ARP Head Studs.

(3) I didn't resurface my block, although I did have the head completely checked out and replaced the valve seals.

(4) I'm running a P&P head with stock valvetrain.

(5) If you're going to invest in cams don't cheap out, get a good set with the proper valvetrain.

Here are my dyno graphs and pix of my set up! Enjoy, and goodluck! If you'd like more info on my build check out my thread!

http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?id=26851&page=1

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

(1) Dont waste your money on a lock guard, there pointless. if you want to spend money on something get the cnc werx cylinder support system or nothing at all. With proper tune stock sleeves can handle more than your planning on throwing at it.
(2) You always replace the headgasket when you remove the head period. Its a multi layer steel crush headgasket and is not re-useable. No need for copper spray it has a viton coating on it which seals any imperfections which is what copper spray would do on a no viton coated HG.
(3) if its not overheating or eating oil or coolant then there is no reason to resurface it unless when torn down you notice something defective.
(4)p&p head really will not see much gains at all without some more aggressive camshafts. It wont hurt it to run the p&p head though. Judging by your turbo size and hp goals its not going to make any difference either way you go and stock cams will get you to 300hp.
(5) There are a couple cams out there that can be run on stock valve train but I wouldnt recomend it and your still limited to stock redline so whats the point. Aggressive cams want to carry the power to higher rpm range and if your stuck at 7k rpm there is no benifit. Valve springs are cheap if you want to go aftermarket cams do it the right way .

99civ

Thanks for the responses. So I'll go no on the block guard, the head gasket was rhetorical question... It was a late partially drunk post. I will run a stock head with the modifications already ran. I have ARP head studs already too. Was going to run a compression test sometime this week on the hatch and then start taking it apart. I have some wiring issues I need to take care of, etc.
Stock axles fine or should I upgrade since I'm basically taking a lot apart already?
How about the stock oil pan? Tap it or get a moroso?

99civ

and eaz, your teg is sick... just went thru your build page.

eaz_e

Thanks!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

use the stock pan. you dont need to have anything welded to it either. Get a drain flange for a turbo and bolt it to the pan. quick easy and cheap way to get it done. I've had mine this way for 8 years. Worked out great and no need for a welder

crvtectim

Neptune ftw!

Log manifold over the ramhorn for your power goals for sure.

You'll be pushing the duty cycle pretty high on either of those injectors to hit 300whp, especially if you're running stock fuel pump.

v8eatrr

block guards are trash and ruin engines from overheating, beleive me mine blew up last week from it overheating cracked a piston, block guard holes were all corroded and not letting coolant pass through to my head.

TKERacer619

Skip the cams until you start trying to squeeze every bit you can. For a weekend car its not needed at all.

Spend your money in other places. 300 on a b18b is easy with stock cams.

Schister66

-No block guard
-Shorty ramhorn manifold
-550+cc injectors because your 440s will cap out before 300whp
-If you want cams, find a set of Crower 404s...or better yet, find a VTEC head and ITR cams

TKERacer619

Oh and use Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors. They are the cats ***.

LSTurbo23

DO NOT USE A BLOCK GUARD....unless you want eggshaped cylinders..do not listen to anyone who chimes in and says "well yeah it worked for my buddy..or i had it with no problems" i guarantee they will will run into problems...google the cylinder support system..id choose that over a blockguard anyday.

i had an lsturbo with a stock head and a semi built block..i honestly think head work on an LS is a waste of money...esepcially when your only looking for 300hp..those heads breathe like a fat man with sleep apnea...i had an sc34 turbo with 560cc and made some pretty good power..everything else was pretty much answered but pleeeeaassseee do not use a blockguard. this is from personal experience.

Schister66

On pump gas, that injector will support 600whp...it could be a little too big for his goals. A set of 550s or 720s would be more than enough. Not to mention, 550-720cc injectors are far more common and less expensive

99civ

Yeah no block guard... I've gathered that now, lol, check. I appreciate all the feedback and will probably run 550's RC's since they seem to be the most popular(especially used in market place).. Log manifold, check.. My dad said he could make a sheet metal "shield" for it too, might be a good look.. I will look into the drain flange for the turbo(anybody have a link or diagram? I'll google it in a min)... and can I run stock axles on 300hp? Being the car will be primarily track car, so average 5 runs a week? 10-20 runs a month? Give and take the time I take to show up and run it? etc? I also believe I have an upgraded fuel pump because its the loudest thing on the car outside of my exhaust.

eaz_e

Stock axles will work, but the after a few burn outs and runs there going to snap.. You'll actually be lucky if they last a few runs..Hopefully you have aftermarket motor mounts too, when I took mine to the track I broke 2, and that wasnt a fun night.. Pull your fuel pump out and you should be able to notice if its stock or not.. In my teg you can constantly hear it pumping.. The little buzz never goes away..

OneBadTurboCRV

Plenty of people here (including myself) run factory axles for 500+ whp... have you ever heard of preloading?

You broke high mileage engine mounts dumping a clutch? Imagine that...

Walbro pumps look pretty close to stock to the point you would have to actually inspect it unless you look at them all the time.

A failing stock fuel pump can be noisy as well.

Tuning is key to ANY build be it N/A, boosted, or nitrous...

You may have a modified car, but you are still clueless.

OP - 300whp can easily be done on a COMPLETELY stock B18. Get all supporting external modifications necessary and call it a day.

eaz_e

Just going off my experience, my bad, I was 15 years old when I started my turbo build.. I'm 20 now.. 5 years of toying around at my own pace with little to no help.. Giving my input as best as I could..

OneBadTurboCRV

That is the biggest problem with forums. Too many mocking birds repeating bad information or trying to make themselves appear to "know something". If it gets left uncorrected then some other stupid kid comes in, reads the bad info, and the process starts all over again in a never ending cycle...

99civ

-I plan to strip my hatch over the winter before I "conclude" all of the boost mods so I will fid out as far as fuel pump goes.

-TUNING, will be roughly 30% of my build honestly, in terms of money. Maybe even a little more, I decided if I shorted anything through this process, it would not be tuning. Most people fail here. There are a few good tuners here in ohio. I have Colletti literally down the street from me(have heard ups and downs, but they have proven cars) and of course all the shops in cinci.

-I will, might, upgrade axels while this is all in pieces. Would make more sense, guess it will come down to $$.

Schister66

I agree...stock axles will hold up just fine, so long as you dont side-step the clutch. My GSR made just shy of 400whp and I was still running AutoZone Lifetime replacement axles at the drag strip launching with either drag radials or slicks...and had no issues. (my OEM motor mounts with inserts held up just fine too)