b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
11-06-2014, 07:36 PM
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b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
I have a b18b1 I'm building for turbo, hoping to push 10-15psi and 280 hp. Planning on purchasing valve Springs, retainers, 8.2:1 wiesco pistons, arp head studs, some machining, the turbo, and hopefully not much else. This is why I'm posting.
Will I need new cam shafts with more lift/duration? Mine are in great shape.
Will I need new rods? Again, the stock ones look good.
Crank shaft main bearing journals are scored and unusable. Should I have mine machined turned and balanced, or get a new one?
Bearings are unusable, and if I have the crank machined I know I'll need different (thicker) ones from stock, how should I go about buying them?
I'm going to have the block machined, .5-1 mm over, for a nice re surfacing and the new pistons. Do I need to have the cylinders sleeved for the amount of boost I plan on running? What type/material should I use for my poison rings?
Head and block are not warped, I'm so glad to say. Crank is scored, bearings are shot.
All feed back is greatly appreciated! I'm doing this build at Butte college in Chico ca. I have access to many great tools.
Will I need new cam shafts with more lift/duration? Mine are in great shape.
Will I need new rods? Again, the stock ones look good.
Crank shaft main bearing journals are scored and unusable. Should I have mine machined turned and balanced, or get a new one?
Bearings are unusable, and if I have the crank machined I know I'll need different (thicker) ones from stock, how should I go about buying them?
I'm going to have the block machined, .5-1 mm over, for a nice re surfacing and the new pistons. Do I need to have the cylinders sleeved for the amount of boost I plan on running? What type/material should I use for my poison rings?
Head and block are not warped, I'm so glad to say. Crank is scored, bearings are shot.
All feed back is greatly appreciated! I'm doing this build at Butte college in Chico ca. I have access to many great tools.
11-07-2014, 01:13 AM
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Re: b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
8.2:1? Are you ******* high? You have some major learning to do. First, read this quote, then go read the FAQ sticky.
PSI means nothing, so get that notion out of your head. Figure out power and delivery goals, and work from there. Valve springs and retainers on stock cams are a waste of money. No, you don't need new cams for 300. Yes, if you run aftermarket pistons, you will need aftermarket rods. Stock pistons and rods use a press-in wrist pin, whereas aftermarket use a floating pin - they aren't compatible without a lot of expensive machine work. You sure as **** don't need sleeves for 300. ****, for 300 from a B18, you don't need to touch the block, at all. A stock rotating assembly will handle it just fine. A stock valvetrain will handle it just fine. If you spun bearings, you need to clean and carefully inspect those rods - the slightest sign of blueish discoloration, throw them the **** away. They're done.
Seriously, you are WAY off track. Too far off track for you to expect one of us to hold your hand through this. Go read the FAQ sticky. Once you're done with that, I'm building the same motor for 400 WHP - if you want to step your game up into forged internals territory, give my build thread a read. If you're going to be happy with 300, then get OEM replacement parts, put the motor back together properly, and don't worry about dropping the coin on forged internals.
Back in the 90s, when the best thing we had access to was stupid VAFCs and FMU hacks, low detonation thresholds were important - there was no fine tuning, so keeping the engine from detonating was very important. That is the ENTIRE purpose of lowing compression.
Today, we live in the age of this great thing called technology. There are plenty of engine management options that offer real-time logging, and fine tuning down to the hair, so you don't need low compression. in fact, you can RAISE compression, slap a turbo on there, and still make amazing power, especially with forged internals. The norm nowadays (at least, for people who aren't stuck in the 90's), is 10.5:1 or more. You still get the same final power, but you get a MUCH better powerband, because you actually have power outside of boost. When you lower your compression ratio, you lose power. Period. If you want a car that isn't a gutless piece of trash, that means you have to run a smaller turbo, so that a quicker spool can make up for the lack of power. A smaller turbo means a lower top-end. With the higher compression ratios allowed by better engine management options (and better fuel, too), you can get more power outside of boost, which means you can run a larger turbo that would kick in a little later, which means you can get more power in boost, too.
You're welcome.
Today, we live in the age of this great thing called technology. There are plenty of engine management options that offer real-time logging, and fine tuning down to the hair, so you don't need low compression. in fact, you can RAISE compression, slap a turbo on there, and still make amazing power, especially with forged internals. The norm nowadays (at least, for people who aren't stuck in the 90's), is 10.5:1 or more. You still get the same final power, but you get a MUCH better powerband, because you actually have power outside of boost. When you lower your compression ratio, you lose power. Period. If you want a car that isn't a gutless piece of trash, that means you have to run a smaller turbo, so that a quicker spool can make up for the lack of power. A smaller turbo means a lower top-end. With the higher compression ratios allowed by better engine management options (and better fuel, too), you can get more power outside of boost, which means you can run a larger turbo that would kick in a little later, which means you can get more power in boost, too.
You're welcome.
Seriously, you are WAY off track. Too far off track for you to expect one of us to hold your hand through this. Go read the FAQ sticky. Once you're done with that, I'm building the same motor for 400 WHP - if you want to step your game up into forged internals territory, give my build thread a read. If you're going to be happy with 300, then get OEM replacement parts, put the motor back together properly, and don't worry about dropping the coin on forged internals.
11-07-2014, 05:46 AM
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Re: b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
NotaRacist gave you some good advise, listen to him.
Take a look at my build thread as well, I built a basicly stock LS pretty cheap and am right around 300whp.
https://honda-tech.com/appearance-bu...build-3208172/
Take a look at my build thread as well, I built a basicly stock LS pretty cheap and am right around 300whp.
https://honda-tech.com/appearance-bu...build-3208172/
11-08-2014, 06:58 PM
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Re: b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
There's no point in using forged internals if you're planning on making less than 350-400whp... Especially with a compression ratio that low...
It would be easier and cheaper for you to find a stock ls shortblock in good shape and go from there.
You can make 280 on a bone stock motor with basic turbo parts and a proper tune.
It would be easier and cheaper for you to find a stock ls shortblock in good shape and go from there.
You can make 280 on a bone stock motor with basic turbo parts and a proper tune.
11-11-2014, 04:15 PM
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Re: b18b1 engine rebuild, turbo set up
There's no point in using forged internals if you're planning on making less than 350-400whp... Especially with a compression ratio that low...
It would be easier and cheaper for you to find a stock ls shortblock in good shape and go from there.
You can make 280 on a bone stock motor with basic turbo parts and a proper tune.
It would be easier and cheaper for you to find a stock ls shortblock in good shape and go from there.
You can make 280 on a bone stock motor with basic turbo parts and a proper tune.
I found a nice b18b1 longblock with decent compression, and the sleeves were in ok shape as well. Replaced ALL gaskets, belts, and some ARP headstuds to reduce lift. Now I'm working on piecing together a turbo kit.
If you're looking for healthy motors, check out hmotorsonline.com, great USDM/JDM motors for a fair price.
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