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Absolutely, especially if you're using a GTX2867R turbocharger. If you don't, consider that turbo a paper weight in no time!!
Those CHRAs use only about 22psi of oil pressure due to the fact that the bearings system is doing most of the work rather than the turbine shaft using oil splay to ride on a layer of oil. You'll blow right through the rear oil sealing ring without the correct one. There is a specific one you must use too. PLUS, you want to make sure that you stop any contaminated oil or debris that may clog the restrictor that's being used, so an inline oil filter is in order, especially for a GT series running a -3AN line
You've got a few more items to pick up.
Wow glad you brought that up then my buddy said I didn't need one too, haha he was sure wrong. Which would you reccomend? I see you posted earlier that the ones that sit in the flange suck?
I ordered a Woodward machine -3an filter from speed trap about a week ago, so that should be covered once it gets here
Absolutely, especially if you're using a GTX2867R turbocharger. If you don't, consider that turbo a paper weight in no time!!
Those CHRAs use only about 22psi of oil pressure due to the fact that the bearings system is doing most of the work rather than the turbine shaft using oil splay to ride on a layer of oil. You'll blow right through the rear oil sealing ring without the correct one. There is a specific one you must use too. PLUS, you want to make sure that you stop any contaminated oil or debris that may clog the restrictor that's being used, so an inline oil filter is in order, especially for a GT series running a -3AN line
You've got a few more items to pick up.
Wow glad you brought that up then my buddy said I didn't need one too, haha he was sure wrong. Which would you reccomend? I see you posted earlier that the ones that sit in the flange suck?
I ordered a Woodward machine -3an filter from speed trapp about a week ago, so that should be covered once it gets here
Wow glad you brought that up then my buddy said I didn't need one too, haha he was sure wrong. Which would you reccomend? I see you posted earlier that the ones that sit in the flange suck?
I ordered a Woodward machine -3an filter from speed trapp about a week ago, so that should be covered once it gets here
Yeah, they do.. something awful. And you need to stop listening to your buddy. He was about to owe you a $1500 piece of burnt metal and iron equipment because of his ignorance of not knowing what you need to get this rolling.
Here's what you need.
For the GTX2867R: -3AN 7/16-24 .030"
Get it HERE. That will work with your Inline Oil Filter, and you won't even need to cut the feed line for this to fit. No teflon tape, paste or silicone sealant (you may make things worse using it. Those are steel with a tapered end, so it should work without the need of sealants. The flanges suck, and the aluminum fittings tend to strip in the oil inlet of these CHRAs..
Yeah, they do.. something awful. And you need to stop listening to your buddy. He was about to owe you a $1500 piece of burnt metal and iron equipment because of his ignorance of not knowing what you need to get this rolling.
Here's what you need.
For the GTX2867R: -3AN 7/16-24 .030"
Get it HERE. That will work with your Inline Oil Filter, and you won't even need to cut the feed line for this to fit. No teflon tape, paste or silicone sealant (you may make things worse using it. Those are steel with a tapered end, so it should work without the need of sealants. The flanges suck, and the aluminum fittings tend to strip in the oil inlet of these CHRAs..
When its all over, it should fit like this.
Thanks I just ordered that, it's 0.35 and you wrote .030, close enough right? Okay so no teflon tape, I should be using teflon for the other stuff right? I put it on the coolant feed and drain, and oil drain and oil pan fittings.
I cut my hoses down so they don't run uphill at all anymore, all downhill straight to the radiator and oil drain.
Thanks I just ordered that, it's 0.35 and you wrote .030, close enough right? Okay so no teflon tape, I should be using teflon for the other stuff right? I put it on the coolant feed and drain, and oil drain and oil pan fittings.
I cut my hoses down so they don't run uphill at all anymore, all downhill straight to the radiator and oil drain.
I don't use teflon on anything going from steel to steel (Steel fitting to steel/iron CHRA) but if using aluminum fittings, then yes.
.030" vs. .035", don't matter, you're good. as long as you got it.
show me what restrictor you're using as well for this Ball-bearing Garrett
Make sure it is not this ****.. Or anything even remotely close.
Im curious whats so bad about having the restrictor hole at the bottom of the flange vs half inch up at the inlet of the fitting, a restritor hole isnt a restrictor hole?
Im curious whats so bad about having the restrictor hole at the bottom of the flange vs half inch up at the inlet of the fitting, a restritor hole isnt a restrictor hole?
No. Unlike what many teenage boys think when it comes to sex in high school, a hole isn't just a hole.
I've done a lot of rebuilds and inspections of Garrett and Turbonetics turbos over the last few years, and many of them are because of the starvation issues that this god-forsaken thing does.
Basically in between the threaded male flange and the oil orifice is of course a small cavity that holds a small portion of the oil used. When oil pressure is high, (such as WOT or at cold start) its not the worst thing in the world and reasonably fills the oil gallies, as the pressure within the cavity forces the oil through the hole at the bottom, so as the turbine shaft rotates, its decently lubricated.
The problem is when oil pressure within the line and the cavity is low. (like about 8-20psi of oil pressure) such as when the car is idling or has a low working oil pump. The turbine shaft is still spinning to where it needs that oil to balance, lubricate, and cool the turbine shaft; even when the car is slowing down or at idle….
This is where the biggest amount of crap comes up , because this “hole” is now only dripping a little oil into the gallies without providing proficient oil “splay” for the CHRA to survive. This repeated act occurs every time a person slows down at a stoplight, sits idle for long periods of time, and still continues to drive the car on a normal basis.
The symptoms usually start off with a “wisp” of blue smoke once in a blue moon.. then it progresses to show signs of starvation anytime the car is idle, and is mistaken for bad valve seals or guides. It then goes further to occur all the time to which then, the damage is done.
The result; overheated front thrust bearing, burned journal bearings, warped turbine shaft, (in many cases, the shaft is compromised beyond repair), and even compressor wheel/compressor cover contact. It will be at a point to where now, a “rebuild” doesn’t even save the turbo anymore, because the turbine shaft is so messed up. In those cases, its cheaper to get another cartridge and cover than it is to repair the CHRA.
*Warning: The images you are about to see may not be suitable for some viewers*
So, here's a turbocharger:
Burned-overheated front thrust collar
Good thrust collar (Left) , Overheated Thrust collar (right).. Notice the "bluing" from overheating and oil starvation.
Scored front piston ring collar connected to the backplate
Damaged rear journal bearing from starvation
Starved turbine shaft by front journal bearing
Notice the bluing on the rear part of the turbine shaft from starvation
Overheated and damaged thrust bearing, even changed color
Compressor housing damage due to lack of oil splay onto turbine shaft
Damaged compressor wheel. It's not much, but not worth keeping.
ALL this damage, for a $10 flange because you want to live by the credo "a hole is a hole?". With that kind of thinking, you might as well keep having random sex with no condom.. Lots of damage to your body, even if everything "feels fine", and yet none of the satisfaction afterwards, as you head down the road performing the walk of shame.
Cant say I really understand how the hole being at the bottom of the flange makes any difference, I once had a gauge on the feed line and seen the same oil pressure on the feed as I did the back of the block (14psi @ warm idle) and have had the feed line with restrictor connected spraying into a bucket and there is a substantial ammount of oil coming out very quickly and constant. I just dont get how the turbo would ever get starved with pressure and flow present.
^^^^^ where did you get that part. need it for my precision t4 turbo 6667 jour
My God, man. Are you not seeing what's being written here?
Tell you what.. I have about 10 here, all from destroyed units. You send me some shipping money, I'll send a couple to you, then you can go to Precision with your repair issue. Wait a few weeks in disgust, then ask us what the problem is.
Okay I tried to route it around the downpipe, will this work? Sorry the picture is at a weird angle, only way I could get it all.
Also: I can only get the coolant feed and drain(on the turbo) hand tight, I can't fit any tools in there, hopefully that will work.
Hard to see but you dont want teflon tape on AN fittings either. They dont seal at the threads like NPT, but at the 37deg end. Also, it looks like the drain makes a slope back upwards too the pan, big nono.
If you have to modify the downpipe to make this all work, then that's what you will have to do. I wouldn't compromise on the feed and return for the sake of the turbo. I luckily had more room on my setup with the turbo facing the other direction, so it wasnt this bad.
Hard to see but you dont want teflon tape on AN fittings either. They dont seal at the threads like NPT, but at the 37deg end. Also, it looks like the drain makes a slope back upwards too the pan, big nono.
If you have to modify the downpipe to make this all work, then that's what you will have to do. I wouldn't compromise on the feed and return for the sake of the turbo. I luckily had more room on my setup with the turbo facing the other direction, so it wasnt this bad.
I noticed it was still slightly uphill in the picture you took too, since then I've cut it shorter so there is no uphills now. Its pretty close to the downpipe(about 1inch) but I bought some header wrap and I'll just wrap the downpipe.
Made some crappy brackets from steel i bought at home depot to mount my intercooler, kinda ghetto but it works great, got the ID1000's in too.
Got my filter from STC today, it's really nice and small enough to fit where it needs to so I'm happy about that.
Trying to figure out this catch can I got, I've been searching for pictures but find something different every single time.
I found this one, it's the same catch can I have but I don't understand the PCV tank picture in the top left, where does the hose go? Also do I really need the one way check valve things?
I
pulled the turbo out cause I couldn't get the restrictor on there with it still in, and I also couldn't get the coolant lines on tight enough, but now I'm confused, which side is drain and which side is feed? Thanks ( the compressor housing is facing down on the TRANS side)
I
pulled the turbo out cause I couldn't get the restrictor on there with it still in, and I also couldn't get the coolant lines on tight enough, but now I'm confused, which side is drain and which side is feed? Thanks ( the compressor housing is facing down on the TRANS side)
It's not a drain vs. Feed type of setup. What I'm having you focus on is that the coolant needs to come from two different sources that are continuous with your coolant system.
The port facing your radiator support can go to the bottom of the radiator with the adapter drain plug. The port that faces towards the engine can go to your little adapter thermostat neck you created.
Don't tighten the water fittings so much that you use a lot of ft/lbs of torque.
Worse case you must convert those to banjo style like most gt-r chras..You spend a little more money, but you save a LOT in time.
07-15-2015, 10:39 AM
Re: B18 Coolant and Oil Drain Lines
