187Chor

I just got my car tuned by Nick from Teknotik and dyno'd at Dynamotorsports.

I have a 92 Civic hatch with a B16b(CTR), GT3082R turbo, tial 44mm wastegate with .4 bar spring, HKS SSQV BOV, SSAC (XSPower) manifold, SSAC 3 inch downpipe, SSAC 3 inch exhaust. No catalytic convertor. RC 550cc injectors. Walboro 255 fuel pump.

The car made 291.8 HP @ 8250 rpm, and 187.7 lbs/tq @ 7732 rpm.

The spring in the wastegate is .4 bar and I had 6lbs of boost by 5000rpm but it creeped up to 7lbs by 7000rpm and 8lbs by 7800 where it held steady until 8250.

I welcome your comments




Modified by 187Chor at 12:24 AM 11/13/2007

Turbo O

Good Numbers

Extra for doing it with SSAC parts, which alot of HT haters will probably soon begin to tell your the usual stupid comments like:

"Lets see how long it last" and "Good luck using XS Power parts".

But all those **** can go suck a fat one.

reboosted

looks good to me

FinalJinx

it looks like it's able to make more power beyond 8250

REDLINEtypeR

Nice #'s. I am runnin some ssac stuff too. Good to see some pos. sides to them. Mine is nice so far also.

dr_latino999

Why the early cutoff point on the graphs?

Garage 808 Hatch

i'll start the hating with an honest quetion, why the hell would you spend all that money to do a B16B and then skimp out and get SSAC ****? and yes, most will hate on it. I do, because every customer car we get in that has SSAC parts on it, break in under 2000 miles. we've seen 3 XS power turbos blow up at 6psi on the 3rd pull, and a/f and timing were fine? idk, just from my observation they are not worth even the little money spent

Schister66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> HT haters will probably soon begin to tell your the usual stupid comments like:"Lets see how long it last" and "Good luck using XS Power parts".
But all those **** can go suck a fat one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's obviously a reason for statements like that. Everyone knows that SSAC parts are not known for their quality. If you want to risk it, go right ahead. Personally, i'll spend the extra money for something that is 100% reliable. I dont like to gamble and i absolutely hate fixing my car. I follow the mentality that you should do things right the first time and be done with it.

highmilehatch

Do it right the first time. Don't use junk parts. I wouldn't risk that cheap manifold ruining a turbo that expensive. If that thig breaks and sends anything through the chra, that would suck. Either way different strokes for different folks.

B20luda

My good friends civic has an ssac maniold....been like that for 5k hard miles now... no issues

And even if it does break its not your car so who gives a ****...regardless nice numbers...

187Chor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FinalJinx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks like it's able to make more power beyond 8250</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why the early cutoff point on the graphs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im pretty sure it would have made power past 8250 i chose the .82A/R just to make power in the higher rpms.... but i have a stock motor with fairly high compression and came to the dyno thinking id be happy with even 250whp.. with the 50mm runners and good flow of the head the boost crept from 6-8 psi after vtec came on and i dint want to push it past that, especially since i was already at 290whp.

now my curiosity is asking me what i would have made if i went to 9k rpm.. 325 possibly?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll start the hating with an honest quetion, why the hell would you spend all that money to do a B16B and then skimp out and get SSAC ****? and yes, most will hate on it. I do, because every customer car we get in that has SSAC parts on it, break in under 2000 miles. we've seen 3 XS power turbos blow up at 6psi on the 3rd pull, and a/f and timing were fine? idk, just from my observation they are not worth even the little money spent</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i dint go with thier BOV's, turbos or wastegates because thats a mechanical part that I wouldnt risk failing.. i heard thier older style manifolds used to crack but I hadn't seen any regative reviews on thier newer 50mm style race manifolds and decided to be a guinea pig... i guess ill let everyone know how it goes.. from what i see so far its pretty solid, and id expect my motor to pop before the welds on the manifold come apart..

bootlegcivic

Here's the link to my B16B turbo setup. No SSAC and more power on a smaller turbo (gt28rs) no need for a .82 ar.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2033368


Modified by bootlegcivic at 1:22 PM 11/21/2007

ForceFed Motorsports

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 187Chor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well i dint go with thier BOV's, turbos or wastegates because thats a mechanical part that I wouldnt risk failing.. i heard thier older style manifolds used to crack but I hadn't seen any regative reviews on thier newer 50mm style race manifolds and decided to be a guinea pig... i guess ill let everyone know how it goes.. from what i see so far its pretty solid, and id expect my motor to pop before the welds on the manifold come apart..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill agree with you there that no SSAC product should be used for the mechanical portion. I have seen there manifolds last IF they were rewelded or had support tabs welded to the bottom of the runners. BUT after comparing the collector on my AFI ramhorn compared to a buddies XS power manifold i could plainly see the lack of quality, wish i took a pic. His didnt even line up right so were gobbed together with a nasty weld compared to mine being perfect

CoreyR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 187Chor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


im pretty sure it would have made power past 8250 i chose the .82A/R just to make power in the higher rpms.... but i have a stock motor with fairly high compression and came to the dyno thinking id be happy with even 250whp.. with the 50mm runners and good flow of the head the boost crept from 6-8 psi after vtec came on and i dint want to push it past that, especially since i was already at 290whp.

now my curiosity is asking me what i would have made if i went to 9k rpm.. 325 possibly?

well i dint go with thier BOV's, turbos or wastegates because thats a mechanical part that I wouldnt risk failing.. i heard thier older style manifolds used to crack but I hadn't seen any regative reviews on thier newer 50mm style race manifolds and decided to be a guinea pig... i guess ill let everyone know how it goes.. from what i see so far its pretty solid, and id expect my motor to pop before the welds on the manifold come apart..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the boost creep has nothing to do with the well flowing head or runner size, its has to do with the shitty *** wastegate placement on that manifold.

torque was dropping off but assuming you made 180TQ at 9K it would have made ~308WHP @ 9K

187Chor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's the link to my B16B turbo setup. No SSAC and more power on a smaller turbo (gt28rs) no need for a .82 ar.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...48969

</TD></TR></TABLE>

the link doesnt work

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ill agree with you there that no SSAC product should be used for the mechanical portion. I have seen there manifolds last IF they were rewelded or had support tabs welded to the bottom of the runners. BUT after comparing the collector on my AFI ramhorn compared to a buddies XS power manifold i could plainly see the lack of quality, wish i took a pic. His didnt even line up right so were gobbed together with a nasty weld compared to mine being perfect </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya the mechanic welded a support tab on the bottom of the runner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the boost creep has nothing to do with the well flowing head or runner size, its has to do with the shitty *** wastegate placement on that manifold.

torque was dropping off but assuming you made 180TQ at 9K it would have made ~308WHP @ 9K</TD></TR></TABLE>

im using a 44mm tial wastegate, i dont think any position of wastegate would have prevented the little bit of boost creep i had.. a single 44mm hole is not enough to reroute the flow of exhaust from 4x50mm runners at the high rev's it was creeping.. but nothing happened that i didnt plan to happen.. i knew id creep 2psi and instead of starting with the .5 bar spring i purposly used the .4bar spring.. if i had used the 38mm wastegate i can only imagine how much worse the creep would have been
once i build up my motor ill drop the .6 bar spring in..

CoreyR

it has nothing to do with runner size, a 44mm wasteagte is more then enough to control boost on a GT30R on a 1.6L motor. its the wastegate placement, i promise. alot of the SSAC manifolds do it.

2SLO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
100% reliable.
I dont like to gamble and i absolutely hate fixing my car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


100% reliable? hate fixing your car? youre in the wrong business, man...

Schister66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2SLO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


100% reliable? hate fixing your car? youre in the wrong business, man... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i suppose 100% reliable is a stretch, but i'll take the most reliability i can get. I would rather spend the extra $$ and get something that i dont have to worry about. Also, i've run my stock internal turbo GSR for 2 seasons without problem; therefore, 100% reliable thus far

Doostur

Looks good, and nice number. I'm in for an in car video.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i suppose 100% reliable is a stretch, but i'll take the most reliability i can get. I would rather spend the extra $$ and get something that i dont have to worry about. Also, i've run my stock internal turbo GSR for 2 seasons without problem; therefore, 100% reliable thus far </TD></TR></TABLE>

100% is a stretch, true. But what I think Schister66 getting at is that because of the use of a quality product, its just ONE LESS THING TO WORRY ABOUT in the pursuit of power, use, and ultimate happiness.

5K on a turbo car is peanuts. Try going SEVERAL YEARS, through street, events, etc, without a single issue, and THEN you've received a quality material.


Modified by TheShodan at 8:23 AM 11/19/2007

ForceFed Motorsports

Agreed, been boosted a little over a year and a half. Raced almost every weekend in the spring + summer and driven everyday with 160K miles on a stock ls-t. Bought good parts, havent had a SINGLE issue since i did it. The extra money spent is worth not having the hassle of tearing apart your car every other month

Schister66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The extra money spent is worth not having the hassle of tearing apart your car every other month </TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree...two years without an issue has been totally worth the money

foca

I'd be interested in seeing how long those pistons hold up, chor.

Have a B16B in my garage. Trying to figure out which way to go. goal is 300whp.

like the driveability torque of the B18 so i was going to swap in a b18 crank and some forged pistons. keep the p72 rods. that's it.

got any opinions? seen any blow-by or oil consumption on your CTR motor yet?

quicksilver1689

nice setup, spool looks awesome very linear looking, that larger exhaust housing should take you to over 400who. Rev it out a little more, very curious to see how the ctr head and cams work with that turbo at high rpms.

187Chor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd be interested in seeing how long those pistons hold up, chor.

Have a B16B in my garage. Trying to figure out which way to go. goal is 300whp.

like the driveability torque of the B18 so i was going to swap in a b18 crank and some forged pistons. keep the p72 rods. that's it.

got any opinions? seen any blow-by or oil consumption on your CTR motor yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont swap out the crank, thats sort of the advantage we have on this motor.. otherwise sell ur motor and use the $ to build up a different b18..
dude im with u on the lack of torque when not in boost, my only solution is that i will go with 84mm pistons when i sleeve it to give me a lil bit more displacement but dont let go of the excellent rod-stroke ratio!
300whp is no problem as u can see i came pretty close.. im sure with cam gears i coulda dialed in the other 10hp..
no blow by yet but its only been a couple weeks.. and 600km.. i dont know about the oil consumption, i put fresh oil in at the time of install so ill check it out and see if the levels have stayed the same and let u know..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice setup, spool looks awesome very linear looking, that larger exhaust housing should take you to over 400who. Rev it out a little more, very curious to see how the ctr head and cams work with that turbo at high rpms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha im interested too but that would require me taking it back to the tuner and dyno because at this point i told him to set the redline at 8k and i dont feel like shelling out another 5 bills to find out what i woulda made in the next 500rpms which i wont push my car into anyways while in stock format