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B16A2 CP/GSR build-up

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Old 02-25-2008, 06:28 PM
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Default B16A2 CP/GSR build-up

<U>Bottom End:</U>
Stock b16a2 w/ 81.00mm honed sleeves.
9.0:1 CP Pistons
H-Beam Eagle Rods
ACL Main bearings
ACL Rod bearings
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
All new Seals, gaskets and orings
OEM oil pump






Top End:
Stock B16a2 Head
Ported and Polished
GSR Cams
AEM Cam Gears
OEM Valvetrain
Valve Re-seat
All new Seals, gaskets and orings







Modified by jixer615 at 7:52 PM 2/25/2008
Old 02-25-2008, 06:31 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (jixer615)

How about some more info ? Power goals ? Turbo setup ?
Old 02-25-2008, 07:02 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (RCautoworks)

Yeah im getting to that, im a beginner at the whole website posting thing.
Im interested in the GT28RS or the GT T3/T4 turbo setup with a strong manifold and well built intercooler.

My horse power goals are between 300-350 hp depending on how much boost i want for this daily driver.

its winter here as you know in ohio and spring is getting real close. All the parts should be here by the end of this week and all i got is time to work on it.

there are some tuners down in columbus that i would like to call and talk to about getting it dyno'ed, broke-in, and a good tune that i can rely on.

I will have questions throughout the build and answers for what i know about for you guys.

The other day, i learned that my main bearings have color markings on the sides of them to tell you what color type to order. everyday i learn something new and im lovin it. I bought all the necessary build tools like piston ring filler, piston ring pliers, port and polish kit from Goodson here in town (nice place to get a port kit, they have everything), calipers, snap guages and all the metric tools i need to get this engine back together.
Old 02-25-2008, 07:03 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (jixer615)

Old 02-25-2008, 07:09 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (RCautoworks)

i really enjoy your fab work on that mainfold it looks like you built. I have a tig welder but havent had the time to look up mainfold tubing manu's.

where did you get the tubing at to make your mainfold?

I'm a full-time tech. for the Army with keys to the shop to get alittle dirty on the weekends to save some money and gain alot of experience with mainfold building
Old 02-25-2008, 07:16 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (jixer615)

http://www.acestainless.com

Glad you enjoy my work
Old 02-25-2008, 07:20 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (RCautoworks)

i dont know if you want to help me out but looking at these bends and what they have to offer, how do i know what to buy, how many elbow, 90's, straights do i need to buy to get a mainfold completed.

i would greatly appreicate all the help you are willing to give me and i would somehow return the favor back with whatever you might need.

Old 02-25-2008, 07:22 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (jixer615)

Depends on what manifold you build, either you want sch10 or sch40 1.5 bends.
Old 02-25-2008, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (RCautoworks)

from your work pics, MG_6515r.gif. this mainfold here is beautiful and its perfect for me. you have the waste gate in the best place i would ever place one.

your work on mainfolds will be the talk tomorrow at the shop, i saved pics if you dont mind as references
Old 02-25-2008, 07:44 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 CP/GSR build-up (jixer615)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jixer615 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from your work pics, MG_6515r.gif. this mainfold here is beautiful and its perfect for me. you have the waste gate in the best place i would ever place one.

your work on mainfolds will be the talk tomorrow at the shop, i saved pics if you dont mind as references</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I don't mind at all
Old 02-25-2008, 08:12 PM
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i dought you will need them main studs.

and if you want to use the main studs then the line bore needs to be done with the studs.

keep it up

Old 02-25-2008, 09:07 PM
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good stuff, but why do the pics say 2003 ?
Old 02-27-2008, 11:57 AM
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Default Re: (zex_cool)

the camera's time and date was off, i changed the batteries and it resets to the year i bought it

why do i have to line bore it?

its in and everything is nice and smooth, no friction or a sound
Old 02-27-2008, 02:35 PM
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is it always good to get the head re-decked? even if your straight edge doesn't lie
Old 02-28-2008, 04:02 PM
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whats the difference between the 96'-01' integra oil pump and the 99'-00' b16a2 oil pump?

Can a type-r oil pump fit on a b16a2 block?
Old 02-28-2008, 04:17 PM
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the integra one has a space for the crank position sensor , but im sure the b16a2 oil pump has the sensor in the distributor so does not have the hole on the oil pump for the sensor, , i think , check it up but im sure thats it .
Old 02-28-2008, 04:28 PM
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Default Re: (flangemastermike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flangemastermike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the integra one has a space for the crank position sensor , but im sure the b16a2 oil pump has the sensor in the distributor so does not have the hole on the oil pump for the sensor, , i think , check it up but im sure thats it . </TD></TR></TABLE>
there is no difference between the 2 oil pumps
Old 02-28-2008, 04:43 PM
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does one have longer gears to pump more oil and at a higher psi?
Old 02-28-2008, 06:09 PM
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Default Re: (jixer615)

they're the same exact pumps. both have the spot for the cfk sensor.
Old 03-01-2008, 10:07 AM
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i went to turn my head in at the machine shop and he the guy there asked me if i wanted the head coated with thermal coating. he said it reduces the temp by at least 30 degrees.

is this necessary for a honda engine?

let me know if you guys know anything about this
Old 03-01-2008, 11:16 AM
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I'm curious to know if you end up getting the thermal coating as well and to find out about this "line boring" deal with the main studs. Keep us posted and best of luck.
Old 03-02-2008, 02:25 PM
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two things scared me after i installed my cp pistons,

first: do you have to resleeve your block if you go with forged pistons?

second: after installing the pistons, little micro scratches i can't feel with any fingernail or feeler gauge are on the cylinder walls, i can only see with a flash light. Is this normal after installing pistons to have tiny vertical scratches from the rings going in?

i heavily soaked the cylinder walls with oil before each piston and they went right in with no problems, couple light taps and they are in.

if your spinning the engine through its resolutions with a torque wrench, how much load is there while spinning it?

please help answer these questions before i go any further on this build.
Old 03-02-2008, 03:03 PM
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do not need to re-sleeve with aftermarket pistons, generally after a hone there should be what looks like as scratches in the walls, this is normal. Usually i like to spray wd-40 on the walls before installation, however i dont see why oil would not work. the rotating assembly should spin very freely with a wrench, especially since you do not have the head on and hence no compression is being built.
Old 03-02-2008, 03:07 PM
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how freely moving is moving. i can spin the whole rotating assembly with a 3/8 ratchet. can there be a slight drag with new pistons, acl bearings and rings
Old 03-02-2008, 03:49 PM
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