Boston_George

Hey guys,

I have a b16a JRSC w/ 10lb pulley upgrade, walbro fuel pump, BKR7E plugs, JR MAP controller, S-AFC II, and all the bolt-ons... Anyway, I dynoed my car (before I added the S_AFC) and only made 183 hp & 143 tq (uncorrected numbers). I run extremley rich once I hit 6000 rpms.. I'm talking the bar graph completely falls below 10.0 on the A/F ratio portion of the dyno sheet. Also I can hear detnation from 5000-6500 rpms. I'm going back to the dyno soon, but was wondering if anyone has some suggestions when it comes to tunning... There's nobody around to help me, and I'm doing this by myself. Also I just added an aquamist water injection setup (I haven't used it yet). My timing is at 10 degrees BTDC. And what gap should my plugs be at... I know this is alot of questions, but any info would be great... Oh ya... even though my car is running like crap I still smoke S2000's..

romeo619romeo

umm gap your plugs closer...im guessing its all heat thats makign your motor detonate.. try to cool the motor down somehow.. or so.. spray a 45 shot in there or something..

Rory Breaker

Adding nitrous to cure detonation? Good advice!

What FMU/Injectors are you running?

Boston_George

I'm running stock injectors, and the stock JRSC FMU. When I originally dynoed the car, I tried messing with the FMU adjustment screw, but the ajustablity wasn't great. Actually the JRSC FMU sucks... I hope the S-AFC helps... I' haven't ajusted any of the points yet... I'm not sure how much (percentage wise) to adjust.... Thanks!

psileepR

spark plug gap should be around .030-.032

im running bkre7's at .032 ... 8psi

Would too large a gap not be able to ignite the air fuel mixture at high rpms... thus causing a rich condition?

Boston_George

What would you recommend for a gap on the NGK BKR7E's. I've heard from 28 to 40?.. I'm running 10lbs... Thanks!

Boston_George

Thanks man... I'm at .038.... That might be part of the problem.

Spunkster

You really need some kind of timing control. I have a BTC I'll sell you, but I would suggest some kind of Engine management system like Hondata. That way you can control both fuel and timing.

gitwidit

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You really need some kind of timing control. I have a BTC I'll sell you, but I would suggest some kind of Engine management system like Hondata. That way you can control both fuel and timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And get some larger injectors.

romeo619romeo

octane booster also..

RacerXI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GITWIDIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And get some larger injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto

mos

Since you already got the aquamist kit, try it and see if it helps. Maybe on half alcohol half water. And if you're so rich, why not try to dial it out with the afc? Not enough adjustment or what? If you're timing is causing detonation, all that fuel isn't going change that. Since you don't have any kind of boost retard setup- did you try manually retarding the timing even more? What kind of difference did that make?

Let us know how it goes.

Spunkster

Timing is the main cause of detonation....PERIOD

You should not have detonation. the water injection will just cool the air temps a little. You can only tune fuel with the AFC.

By just retarding the base timing, the car will just have rally poor response and feel very weak.

When I said get Hondata, that mean to also get the larger injectors (440's will work great)

I used to have all the gizmos to fool the ECU into doing something that it shouldn't be doing....in the AZ heat and being a daily driverit's a wonder i didn't blow the thing up

KingDsi

Depending on what gas you are running (octane) 10 BTDC is to retarded. When I had a similar set up (with the MAP controller and FMU) I ran 14 BTDC without detonation. You need to adjust your JR FMU without the vac line attatched to 52psi. (reattatch the line after adj.) Also, the walboro pump will richen you up along the rpm band (if you have the stock fpr)

Boston_George

Hey guys, Thanks for all the suggestions! I installed the water injection but I'm having issues with it. I've created another post for it.... Thanks again... good advise is hard to come by!

Boston_George

Here's the water injection post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=568986

Timmay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by romeo619romeo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">octane booster also..</TD></TR></TABLE>

your just full of good ideas LOL

octane booster isnt going to do crap, and nitrous is just going to make it even hotter

i would say get some larger injectors and hondata with a few hours of dyno time you will be very happy

Muad'Dib

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GITWIDIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And get some larger injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
W3RD. I'll be willing to put money that you're maxing those stock injectors out with that setup.

keebler65

get larger injectors, and also control the timing with a jackson racing BTC. there are a lot of used ones for sale that you could get a deal on, and its definately worth it - i love mine.