B16 turbo burnt valves!
02-16-2014, 07:54 AM
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B16 turbo burnt valves!
So I have a 96 hx coupe with a 99 b16 swap in it, last week I went to get it tuned and at about half throttle pull it just shut down.. Come to find out that there is 0 compression across all cylinders. There was so much carbon build up that it ignited and burnt the valves. So before I go back to get the rest tuned I am going to have to replace the valves and since thats happening i'm just going to do pistons/rods also. Wondering what valves,pistons and rods you guys would suggest and any other insight would be great. thank you
02-16-2014, 08:12 AM
#3
Re: B16 turbo burnt valves!
Moved the thread to forced induction so that you might get better response for the best hardware for your turbo'd motor.
02-16-2014, 08:15 AM
#4
Re: B16 turbo burnt valves!
If you're doing rods and pistons, you also need to do bearings and rings, and you need to hone your motor. While you have the motor out, you should also do the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump, as well as your front and rear main seals. You'll also need a complete gasket kit. "Just do the pistons and rods" can get expensive REAL quick.
If money is no issue, go ahead and completely rebuild the motor. If you want to stay affordable, you can't go wrong with Eagle rods and CP pistons. They're affordable without being "cheap", and can handle more than the sleeves can, so they're a solid upgrade. OEM belts, pump, and tensioner. OEM or Cometic gaskets. ARP head studs. Stock valvetrain, stick to stock valves. If you want aftermarket, any proper name brand will be fine. Supertech, Crower, Brian Crower, they all make good parts - personally, I'm a Supertech guy.
If you're trying to stay low-cost, just freshen up your head. A complete top-end gasket kit (once again, OEM or Cometic) and some valves, and you'll be fine. At a minimum, definitely replace your timing belt, but ideally you would still do the tensioner and water pump. While you're doing the valves, DEFINITELY replace your valve stem seals. They're cheap (and included with the Cometic kit).
If you need a how-to or DIY, check my build thread. I go through, in detail, how to rebuild a motor from the ground up.
If money is no issue, go ahead and completely rebuild the motor. If you want to stay affordable, you can't go wrong with Eagle rods and CP pistons. They're affordable without being "cheap", and can handle more than the sleeves can, so they're a solid upgrade. OEM belts, pump, and tensioner. OEM or Cometic gaskets. ARP head studs. Stock valvetrain, stick to stock valves. If you want aftermarket, any proper name brand will be fine. Supertech, Crower, Brian Crower, they all make good parts - personally, I'm a Supertech guy.
If you're trying to stay low-cost, just freshen up your head. A complete top-end gasket kit (once again, OEM or Cometic) and some valves, and you'll be fine. At a minimum, definitely replace your timing belt, but ideally you would still do the tensioner and water pump. While you're doing the valves, DEFINITELY replace your valve stem seals. They're cheap (and included with the Cometic kit).
If you need a how-to or DIY, check my build thread. I go through, in detail, how to rebuild a motor from the ground up.
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