lxrd_vtec

Hey guys:

I have a few questions. I'm really looking for an eg because I plan to swap a motor into it. I don't know whether to do a b series swap or a k series swap as I've heard that for a turbo, the b18c1 and b20 motors would be my best bet and for N/A the b18c5 is the way to go. Is this true? And would it be better to turbo a b series motor rather than a K, despite the K having a higher displacement (besides the K20a's and K20z's)? Now the reason I'm asking is because I want to take it to the strip, if I was going to take it to a road course I'd keep it N/A. I don't know if I asked this right, but thanks for any input/advice.

Dark_Teg

If you have the cash K's are awesome. If your on a budget then a B-swap is your obvious choice. A B18C5 swap is a good 13 second motor in stock form.

You need to establish a HP goal and a budget and go from there. If 300whp and high 11's is your goal the cheap route would be to do an LS swap with a decent turbo kit.

If 350+ is your goal it would be easiest/cheapest to achieve with a B-series VTEC engine with forged internals.

Find your goal:
* Build a motor that will handle it.
* Get a turbo that is efficient at your goal
* Get a fuel system with some headroom
* Get a good tune

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Budget 10, 000 alone for a stock k swap....

As stated you haven't given a budget, power goal, or intended purpose of the car which means we can't even help you in the slightest

lxrd_vtec

Okay do let me be specific. I'm will be laying down some times at the drag strip and want to get into the thirteen or twelve second range (eleven if possible). I also only want to spend no more than I'd say about ten thousand as I don't want a full out race car. As for my hp goal, I plan to keep to car street driven, but if I can make twelves with 500 hp I will allow that. I hope this is more specified.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If E.T.s are your priority, you can do that time with either engine N/A you wouldn't even need a turbocharged application

nealnanoHX

Yeah you can run 13-12's with an all motor setup. If you have the money then the K swap is the best way to go for sure. If not then a B16 or B18B1 with a mild turbo setup will be really fast and fun.

Schister66

You can hit 12's with a ~300whp stock block car...no need for 500hp to accomplish that. In the right chassis with good suspension and driver, 500whp will get you into the 10s; futhermore, that's not really a "streetable" amount of power. Keep your goals a bit more conservative for the first build...buy parts with some headroom so that you have room to expand in the future.

lxrd_vtec

So if I want to go N/A should I go b18c5 or K series?

speedjunkie_g35

That is a no brainer. NA, K is the way.

nealnanoHX

If you want to stay NA K is the way to go for sure but a lot more pricey. B18C5 ITR, B18C1 GSR, LS Vtec or B20 Vtec are all great motors for NA or boost. Personally I say go B series and save a ton of money on the motor and swap, do a B series and with the saved money get a Go Autoworks turbo kit.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

It can be done for way less then 10k......... maybe paying a shoo to install and them source everything for and make money off that too...... maybe.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Even without a shop, not by much less, by the time harness, adapters , radiators, management, and chassis modifications are taken into account. The engine itself is the cheapest part.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yup not to mention having the stock ecu modified to remove the key imobiliser system and all of that fun stuff

Then welding the new mount in, doing all of the work to fit the shifter box.... the average person dies not have the skillset to do the majority of the work, hence the cost

VtecCarHauler

Go b only unless you are trying to go strictly all motor.

A good process would be getting a clean swap. A rebuild will be probably needed unless it was rebuilt from the bottom up by someone you trust. Lets just say any swap you get needs a rebuild.

The best way to go is get a b18c1, c5, or LS vtec. Rebuild it to type r specs example type r pistons, type r cams if possible, and the only aftermarket parts should be valve springs, retainers, valves, Arp head studs, and Arp rod bolts. Rods stock, pistons oem cast, crank oem. Get the car running 13's all motor first with some dr's or slicks.

After you get use to it put together a decent quality turbo kit capable of your power goals. 350-400whp on tight engine with stock internals will get you low 11's to high tens with decent to good 60ft / 330 times. That being said if your goal is strictly drag strip e.t.'s the focus should be on chassis and suspension setup. If your car can launch good and hit 1.58-1.65 60ft times you will need a lot less power to break into 11's or 10's. example: all motor street eg with 250-270whp running 11's is not uncommon. Of course you can also just focus on power and run low times by chasing down the back half of the track with whp.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

So I guess your saying most of it is labor. I'm not gonna habe near that much in my turbo k swap when I'm done lol. But I'm not payi ng anyone to do anything except the tune.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

So you're doing all the welding and wiring, from motor mount to exhaust to radiator brackets. Etc?

It's a lot more work and doing your own harness will make you have a borderline personality disordered with suicidal tendencies and hatred towards all things copper and soldering iron related

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Conversion harness is only $300 I already have it. I don't have a problem with welding. Making brqckets tos mijnt a radiator is cakewalk. I've already had this turbo setup in a rsx with koyo half size and backdoor coldside to an afi center entry intake manifold. I basically got the whole car as a steal. Sold all the rsx and jdm fanboy pieces. I ended up with everything I needed except for the swap parts to put it all in my eg. Its also not the the first time I've worked on a turbo kswap.

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

d-rob's civic makes dang near 700 whp with a stock longblock. i had 560 for about 6 months before i blew my second 4th gear set. K motors are STOUT

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Yea they are. Ive been going back and forth on weather to oem rebuild the k20 or do pistons and rods with my k24 block n crank.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The conversion harness does not fix the immbilizer.. it's built into the ecu and looks for a certain value stored in the key and these two have to match for the car to start

Then you've got fuel management. Kpro or a standalone like an aem ems

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Prc kpro ecu bud ;-)

I already got -8 an feed n return line. Alrwady have fpr. My injectors are small though. So pump and injector needed. I'm gonna have a lil more in everything now cause I'm gonna build the k24. I talked to my buddy who has a stock k24a2 in his eg. Doing everything he has less then $7k in his. That's tuned n going down the road.