Caoboy

Don't listen to an ebay youtuber. They're in it for views. They'll say a wakaba sticker will get you women if it gets them views.

An experienced mechanic is not an experienced tuner/engine builder. Keep that in mind.

kaiem

Yeah, mechanic might have been a wrong choice of word. (English is not my native language). He has built and repaired engines for years, mostly on german cars however tho.

Txdragon

I'm not gonna lie, nor sugar coat it... My experience was frustrating and costly. Frustrating because of all the fitment issues I ran into, costly because I ended up spending an additional 1900 on another turbo, manifold, downpipe, and dumptube. Did I **HAVE** to replace them? Not really. I wanted to because I wanted more from my engine. My goals changed after I got to learn. If you're looking for an inexpensive kit, CXRACING is the place to look into. Was reasonable to learn on. But... Go-Autoworks is a good place to get a starter kit for a few bucks more.. Maybe a couple hundred. I DO NOT care for CXRACING customer service as they were not helpful with anything I had questions about. Greg with Go-Autoworks is a standup fella. If he can handle my questions, I'm sure he can handle anything.

kaiem

Yeah, I'm leaning towards Go-Autoworks as well since many seem to recommend them, the only thing that scares me a bit will be the import customs fee since I'm located in Europe....

NVturbo

Keep that up and you'll end up with useless parts in storage. Do your homework and buy the right stuff the first time. Turbo parts aren't 5 bucks.

2001GSRSC

Your first build you want to make a stupid mistake and cost a bundle. No. Get yer feet wet first with 1 bar. Learn to tune. I did mine on Crome and with Ebay and Amazon parts for about $350. No fuel pump or intercooler. It ran awesome. Absolutely full 1 bar Honda turbo power. Unless you are out of control or not able to pay attention, nothings going to break. If anything the safeties will cut the engine to save it, but your quick hard shifts might break the trans with the increased power.

Spend the money on version 2.0. Hondata,Turbonetics,RCinj,Tial..

You cannot take the numbers you place into Crome and copy them into Hondata. I learned that. The maths are different.

Txdragon

I went into my first build with a similar mindset: cheap to learn. The biggest problem in that was I spent more money in the end than I had to.. I'm not rich by any meaning of the definition, but didn't really sweat it. To me, the learning experience was worth it. Now.. Hindsight being 20/20, I'd have just saved up longer the first time and got it done how I'm doing now.. Eh, to each his own. "Cheap" kit can be done if you're not expecting miracles. The goals aren't extravagant here, it's possible to pull off under 2k for the whole build, and that's with internals, all supporting mods, AND a good tune.
Are there "budget" parts I'd avoid? Yep. Are there "budget" parts I'd only recommend with caution? Yup. Would I offer a bandwagon recommendation of "buy once, cry once" over going the cheap route unless dire reasons forbid it? Absolutely! Then again, if it's going to hurt spending the money on it, maybe another hobby should be considered.

2001GSRSC

A tuner will charge $500-600. Pick one that has a very expensive O2 sensor.

I upgraded my ebay turbo to a Precision Turbo, but not because it stopped working.

2x0

Again, it takes A LOT of luck to not break things when you aren't professionally tuned and throwing cheap parts at it without knowing what you are doing.


Oh did it? How would you quantify awesome. What were your IAT's? Without any track times or dyno numbers to back up your claims, you don't know how it was actually running. It might have felt awesome, but you can throw a turbo on anything completely untuned and when that boost hits, you'll get a kick in the pants and it will feel awesome. That doesn't mean anything for the actual performance or longevity of the setup.

2001GSRSC

Ok, well I been building engines since 1980's. I know my way around a Holley carburetor.

It ran hotter, with the turbo hanging off the front. Was not uncontrollable , but stablized at 205 F in traffic. Stock cooling. At 1 bar as a no intercooler turbo it made 200 whp. Yes, it was awesome. The turbo woke up the 100,000 mile engine, helped seal the rings.

Pic of Version .9. I ran it directly to the throttle body. The Crome tune works well as Hondata for me. Anybody thinking this won't work needs to read a book.

Txdragon

I give props for creativity!! However, knowing your Holley carbs and big block, large displacement gas hogs, doesn't mean you're learning anything by doing this. That's like saying you're a boxer just by putting on a pair of gloves and throwing a punch.. I live very close to a dirt track and quite a few of my neighbors that race there that have noticed my civic project in progress, have looked under my hood with complete and utter confusion. They build all their engines too and have for just as long, if not longer than you. They are not Hondas though, nor are they forced induction. Your setup mentioned above was a ticking time bomb, ESPECIALLY with ECT >200 with no real engine management precautions in place. Default on ECT protection in Neptune is 205 anyways.. This doesn't take into consideration that your IAT either, which with a 205 ECT and no intercooler, I'm very sure were WAAYY higher than safe levels in traffic, let alone while driving. May as well load a backpack full of nitroglycerin and go jump on a trampoline.

2001GSRSC

Stock is 196 F. You are suggesting that 205F s a problem? Oh, ya the steel buildings will melt from the fire.

There is more than 9 degrees separation from engine death. Look at international market cold climate spec thermostats. 210-220-230 degrees F.

Seriously I had no problems. The 550cc ebay injectors had no lag data. That was a pain. It was cataloged at 12 V static for a base. Nobody every explained the lag times or how it effects the tune before.

If I did not succeed at this level I would not have conceived version 2.0. Version 1.0 was the inspiration and lessons learned needed for satisfactory results in the future.

I am not going to say I have the recipe for a ebay turbo 350 WHP D. I never even tried it on one. Only B and F's. It works marvelously. I can get you to 200-220whp with those models doing what I did, and spent less than a header and CAI intake doing it. Keeping daily reliability and AC with full laptop tuning access.

Txdragon

Ok.. I tried the nice guy route. Now for adult-level.. Your build was **** and should never, EVER, EVER be referred to as a start. It shouldn't even be referenced when discussing turbo setups. It was an abomination, at best, that was nothing more than somebody playing mad scientist with a Honda and a turbo..

To the OP.. DO NOT take ANY advice or recommendations from any of the posts by this fella here. It will end up an absolute disaster, IF you're that lucky..

2001GSRSC

Who are you obtaining your information from? I use every safety in the software. Boost cuts. timing retards.Aggressive fanning.etc.

At least I know how you feel about it. Are you pissed cause of how well it works or little I spent to do it?

A 4% increase in operating temp should be an except-able trade for almost double the power.

Txdragon

Mmkay.. Daily drive that for the average 80 miles a day, 6 to 7 days a week minimum. Drive it spirited and have fun with it as well.. Report back on how long it lasted.. Just because it works(ed), doesn't make it safe or reliable.

Nail in the coffin... You are dealing with a totally different engine and doesn't pertain in ANY way to this thread as it was requested assistance for D16Z6..

KKTHXBYE

2001GSRSC

Cool. The project was a complete success. Built in 2014?(must have been earlier) was version 1 of the Accord project. After my JRSC GSR that I had previously turbocharged. Both cars are still in my possession, and run well.

Caoboy , mentioned the transmission. Honda is really great. You are able to swap gear sets from different models to come up with your ultimate box. I highly recommend doing this. 1st thru 5th are individually sold as mainshaft and countershaft set.

Both my Accord and GSR boxes were done or parts provided by Synchrotech. I say recommend them.

Lower 1st-4th adjust as needed till happy.
Raise 5th to .700-.650 overdrive, get RPM at 60MPH down around 3,000RPM. Get some driveability back.
The LX or LS or econo gear set is the one for fifth. The stock sets around .850-.900 are too short for advanced final drives.

Synchrotech has final drives once your 5th is altered. You can go further 4.6-4.8:1x torque multplication. Otherwise its too buzzy for me. Im old. In case youre wondering a 5.13:1 final just rips. You would be amazed how much can be done with gearing.

2x0

Sheesh, that escalated quickly! Simmer down now.

2001, I have no doubts that your setup “worked”. It's not much different from my first one, less the lacking FMIC, but I too did mine for dirt cheap, street tuned myself on Crome free, ran DSM injectors, etc.

All I am saying is that 9/10 people attempting to go this route will blow their sh*t, so it's not the best idea to put these ideas into peoples heads. Let's set them up for success.

This route also does not come close to maximizing efficiency, performance or longevity of the build. Idc how much you claim otherwise, it just can’t.

Caoboy

It's more the torque blowing up the transmission, rather than the gearing not being ideal in a D series. You may have missed that part.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

So is it the case or the internals that are specifically weaker than B-series?

Caoboy

Internals? The research I've done it seems like the diff or gears will let go once you're in the 350-400hp range.

Probably moreso due to driveline shock with drag racing though.

Txdragon

This would have to be due more to hard launches. I had NO transmission issues to mention on my D. Adding to that, I'm still using my B7 transmission. I also never "launched" either.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

By "internals" I meant everything besides the case - whether you knew if the gears strip the teeth off or if the case splits at higher torque.

I hope the gears hold up in mine then. I'm not planning on doing launches on slicks or anything, though.

Caoboy

Preload and say a prayer

Txdragon

You've done more with your trans than I have. I never touched mine internally in the history that I've owned my car. You should be fine if you dont plan on drag slicks and track on the regular.

2x0

B series transmissions can let go in the 400whp range also though. Usually due to some sort of shock, intentional (drag launching) or not. I was nearing the top of 3rd on the street when I hit a dip that caused it to spin then catch traction hard, blew the diff apart.

Also @2001, you mentioned you made 200whp. That's awesome, and you're right is much safer power level for the type of low budget build you describe. OP wants 300+ which is a whole nother ball game.