0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

man i just raced my buddies LS1 camaro tonight and lost BAAAAAAD on the line.

driving by myself i kinda figured out how to drive my car . 3K RPM launch. and slowly ride the clutch and roll into the thorttle to 75% and hold it
and slip it into 2nd ride the clutch and roll the throttle to 75%

its hard to do this when you're actually racing someone.

whats your guys's technique on driving. launching.


we all know its been asked many times before. but why ? cuz its a huge problem with FWD and traction.


be sure to share. suspension setup. turbo/power output and tranny/ axle ''

evosol

i pretty much practice the technique that you mentioned. The hard part is making sure that you ride out each gear long enough so that you don't bog in the next gear. its easier said than done when the tires are spinning thats for sure. also with the turbo that i'm running in order to get the best shifts i pretty much have to stay on the gas inbetween shifts.

turbosi03

yeah... I'm playing with around 350whp on stock axles, b16 tranny, 6 puck unsprung cluch... so far my technique is to NOT catch a red light...

everyone has been trying to get me on a roll (evo's, sti's, etc...) little do they know

because of my clutch I can't do the ride clutch thing... so I just feather the **** out of the gas, like barely touch it... and 1+2nd is still useless...

bump for some more info

adseguy

I have my full throttle launch set at 3,600 so everytime I get off the line very well because it's always consistent, but after that it's a different story. It's hard to watch a RWD pass you when you know you are faster, because then you want to give more gas. If I spin out I just let off a little and bounce the rev limiter set at 6950. I also have low boost high boost switch on my shift **** which helps traction in the lower end. Just keep practicing and maybe get some fatter tires, sway bar, traction bar, motor mount inserts. More info though

turbosi03

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's hard to watch a RWD pass you when you know you are faster, because then you want to give more gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think thats a BIG part of the problem right there for me anyway, maybe I havent drivin my car enough yet, but I know nerves make a huge impact.

The number one thing to practice is to relax. that little bit of anxious feeling when you know you have the power to take someone (if you can just put it to the ground) is what makes tires spin more IMO.

of course the only way to relax in that situation is to have confidence... which comes from lots of practice.

I have the Quaife LSD going in soon hopefully that will make some difference... oh wait! I'll be turning the boost up after that so never mind

nfn15037

Go to the dragstrip and practice if straight line times are your thing. You can practice all you want on the street but without quantifiable results, you have no idea if modifying your technique helped or hurt your times.

g2turbo

Racing on the street is stupid. Go to the track where you have consistency and practice your technique.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to the dragstrip and practice if straight line times are your thing. You can practice all you want on the street but without quantifiable results, you have no idea if modifying your technique helped or hurt your times.</TD></TR></TABLE>


heheh thats the thing. drag strip is 2 hrs away and im not much of a drag racer anyways. i prefer autoX or road racing over drag. hence the GT2871R turbo instead of an SC61.

but i will be hitting up the drag strip next week just to see what kinda times i put down.

Finland

get some drag radials, and use those on the street. They won't last long, but you'll have killer traction.

b16sedan

The only way I can hold traction on the street tires is to use AEM's multi stage boost control and cut it right down to 9 psi off the wastegate in first, and even then I get some wheelspin.

DriveSlowHomie

i was wondering around how much power it takes to break traction on when boost kicks in on street tires? for example my cousins car has 375whp and it breaks loost when boost kicks first second @ WOT...mine is going to be stock gsr turbo and i doubt its gonna do the same thing...im talking about no launch, just WOT. that sucks losing knowing that u can win

salt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only way I can hold traction on the street tires is to use AEM's multi stage boost control and cut it right down to 9 psi off the wastegate in first, and even then I get some wheelspin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the AEM and I dont use that. I turn off VTEC under 50mph. that way the tires dont break loose after 5000 rpm, and I get to rev out the gear.

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have the AEM and I dont use that. I turn off VTEC under 50mph. that way the tires dont break loose after 5000 rpm, and I get to rev out the gear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a decent idea, but my turbo spools up so much later without vtec that I would die

Si Shane

in my small amounts of experience i found it best to find a throttle % in which you have traction. I then learned to go from full throttle to pulling my foot to that point in which i have traction. So as soon as the turbo is spooling i'm off the throttle to my special place. I used to try and do all sorts of fetahering and stuff, but this works much better for me. If i'm not trying to add/remove throtte, but more trying to balance the spool at a specifc position i always faired better.

turbosi03

some good ideas guys!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si Shane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in my small amounts of experience i found it best to find a throttle % in which you have traction. I then learned to go from full throttle to pulling my foot to that point in which i have traction. So as soon as the turbo is spooling i'm off the throttle to my special place. I used to try and do all sorts of fetahering and stuff, but this works much better for me. If i'm not trying to add/remove throtte, but more trying to balance the spool at a specifc position i always faired better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you start out at WOT in first gear trying to launch? then to your special spot? how high do you rev before launch? man if you do this in first that must be some quick action

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the AEM and I dont use that. I turn off VTEC under 50mph. that way the tires dont break loose after 5000 rpm, and I get to rev out the gear. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, that’s a HORIBLE idea. The non-vtec cam lobe (on vtec cams) is NOT meant to be revved that high with its profile. You could very well damage your engine this way! Poor motor
I am working on the traction with speed based boost control, LSD, Full Race bars, and sticky tires.
I haven’t even touched the AEM traction control. That will help a bit as well I’m sure.

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Eh, that’s a HORIBLE idea. The non-vtec cam lobe (on vtec cams) is NOT meant to be revved that high with its profile. You could very well damage your engine this way! Poor motor </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you don't mean the vtec lobe isn't meant for lower rpms? I don't see how a smaller profile is going to hurt the valvetrain at higher RPMS? I can see why the vtec lobe in lower rpms can because it's very big. Any references or sites. I'm not callling you out, just want some more info if this is true.

beerbongskickass

205/55/14 Nitto 555r drag radials (tire pressure 12-18psi)
14x5.5 HX wheels (11.75lbs)
Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustables (set to 5 in rear - stiff, 3 on the front - medium)
H&R sport springs
Quiafe LSD
ACT xtss clutch
Jimfab motor mounts (all 3 lower mounts)

I start off by doing a fatty burnout because the tires work much better when hot. I then pre-load the clutch and rev and hold the gas around 4,000rpms (depends on track/street). Basically I want to rev it enough to get my tires spinning a little bit, but not too much.

I then dump the clutch and hold the revs at 4k. Once I am going, I just wait until I am going fast enough to give it full throttle (waiting long enough here is key!), then I give it full throttle. Most of the time I can't power shift (staying on the gas while shifting) from 1st to 2nd, so I shift normal there, and then power shift all the other gears.

I'm only running about 215whp, so it's a little easier for me. If I was running more power I would just setup my car with a button on my steering wheel, so I can have a low and high boost setting. I would launch in low boost and switch to high boost when the car could handle the power without breaking the tires loose.

Oh and practice makes perfect, so find a good country road some night and practice!

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Its not going to hurt anything reving the low profile cam high. It just wont make very good power - which is the intent. Plus the power band will be more linear too.

For me Im going to just use speed/gear based boost control for traction. I hate feathering when Im racing - I just want to floor it lol. Id rather have 6psi in 1st gear, 9psi in 2nd, 15 in 3rd and so on.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

imma keep this up . i know everyone has these problems.

Si Shane

i would launch out of boost, and be into the throttle and i would modulate the boost more than anything. it was about finding a solid point on the throttle where i could keep the car from reaching full boost. Like full throttle for a second and backing off to the holding point at which the turbo would allready be there.

I never dumped my clutch tohugh, i never tried to get crazy quickly out of the hole. I wasw much more concerned with traction, and maintaining contact as i drove and accelerated out of turns. The best method i came up with was moderate but constant throttle position, especiall for straight line acceleration.

When i feather the gas i exceed the power limit of my tires and go under it and above it and under it and oftentimes its just a lot of wheelspin. Other times it would bog (not throw you forward bog, but i'd have to have the turbo spool up again). To combatthis i practiced some gnarly 1st gear pulls in which i did everything i could to keep traction at one position with the throttle.

All in all i'm going to use 3 stages of boost(hopefully). The first would be wastegate (also the hardest to make work well). The second and third would be boost level 1 and 2 on my profec B. Using greddy's switch mounted on the sterring wheel i can easily click from boost 1 to boost 2. I need to find a convenient place to locate a switch to cut power to the unit, so that i can go from no signal to the ebc to the ebc truning on during the 1-2 shift, then i can have a 2nd gear setting, and the easy click to high boost for 3rd gear. I plan on doing a lot of clicking, this isn't just for drag racing

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si Shane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All in all i'm going to use 3 stages of boost(hopefully). The first would be wastegate (also the hardest to make work well). The second and third would be boost level 1 and 2 on my profec B. Using greddy's switch mounted on the sterring wheel i can easily click from boost 1 to boost 2. I need to find a convenient place to locate a switch to cut power to the unit, so that i can go from no signal to the ebc to the ebc truning on during the 1-2 shift, then i can have a 2nd gear setting, and the easy click to high boost for 3rd gear. I plan on doing a lot of clicking, this isn't just for drag racing </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a great idea you thought of to have a switch to turn on the EBC so you can run 3 different PSI settings....hmmmm....gets me thinkin . Only problem I see is start up time takes about 2-3 seconds and that takes a LOOOONNNGGG time when you are racing..haha, maybe I can hit it half way during first gear. Keep us updated if you do this, I'd like to know how it turns out. Right owI have a swtich setup on my shift **** so I go from 12PSI to 16PSI in 3rd gear or when ever I want to hit it, but 1st gear I'd rather have my 7.25 wastegate spring only

Si Shane

the profec b spec 1 is instant on and instant off, change from boost settings is also instant. It even remembers what boost setting you were on if you turn it n then off

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

ttt

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

anyone wnana share tehcnique and results with drag radials ? i got some shitty *** 60's of course i was tryin to make sure the tires spun so i coudl get home. imma try to go again next week and this time imma slip the clutch and try to get it to hook ... * crosses fingers* i hope i dont break an axle