Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
06-05-2017, 03:50 AM
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Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Hi guys, this is my first post on here I've been scouring for years absorbing all of your knowledge.
I'm building/piecing together a kit for my euro civic type r Fn2 with k20z4, I have most of the kit but need some info on a few specifics.
So the parts list:
Gt3076r
I have a sidewinder manifold from an ex civic British touring car
Will be using a tial msv 38mm wastegate
Tial bov
Walbro 255 fuel pump
ID 1000cc injectors
4bar map sensor
Mishimoto oil sandwich plate
Oil lines and fittings
Vaccum lines
Intercooler and piping
Gold sheeting!
My car will also have fd2 cams and fd2 oil pump and baffle delete kit
So questions:
Turbo oil feed from sandwich plate is fine?
OEM fuel pressure regulator is fine for 380hp?
Vaccum lines for wastegate and bov, drill into inlet manifold then take a line to a vaccum manifold then take lines from there? If so what size lines and fittings do you recommend? I have the RSP inlet manifold.
My car has a MAP and MAF sensor, I will replace OEM MAP with 4bar sensor. But what do I do with my MAF? Do I swap it for an IAT sensor? If so where is best placement just before the TB in the intake coupling?
my car is dbw and I will be using Hondata flashpro. Do I need a boost solenoid or boost controller? Boost by gear will be used on this car using flashpro
Any more advice or items missed let me know!
Cheers in advance!
I'm building/piecing together a kit for my euro civic type r Fn2 with k20z4, I have most of the kit but need some info on a few specifics.
So the parts list:
Gt3076r
I have a sidewinder manifold from an ex civic British touring car
Will be using a tial msv 38mm wastegate
Tial bov
Walbro 255 fuel pump
ID 1000cc injectors
4bar map sensor
Mishimoto oil sandwich plate
Oil lines and fittings
Vaccum lines
Intercooler and piping
Gold sheeting!
My car will also have fd2 cams and fd2 oil pump and baffle delete kit
So questions:
Turbo oil feed from sandwich plate is fine?
OEM fuel pressure regulator is fine for 380hp?
Vaccum lines for wastegate and bov, drill into inlet manifold then take a line to a vaccum manifold then take lines from there? If so what size lines and fittings do you recommend? I have the RSP inlet manifold.
My car has a MAP and MAF sensor, I will replace OEM MAP with 4bar sensor. But what do I do with my MAF? Do I swap it for an IAT sensor? If so where is best placement just before the TB in the intake coupling?
my car is dbw and I will be using Hondata flashpro. Do I need a boost solenoid or boost controller? Boost by gear will be used on this car using flashpro
Any more advice or items missed let me know!
Cheers in advance!
06-05-2017, 11:06 AM
#2
re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Ah, you must be from the U.K. You lucky bastards got a very nice FN2 body that we didn't get here. Luckily in the states we know all-to-well what a capable k-series turbo Honda can do. You've got a few of the main points down already, but myself and a few good people here will help you get the most out of it.
I'll get a few things out of the way first, then I'll put my particular comments in blue within your original message, so it'll be easier to disseminate. Sound good?
1. The term "track", to most here refers to drag racing, and not circuit racing or "road racing" like in the U.K. So, try to to remember that when you state what the purpose of the car is, which is something you need to do right off the bat when it comes describing what you're attempting with this build here. It's not always as obvious as one my think, but considering you're looking at an oil cooler and other amenities in which more endurance-styled racing requires, I can guess that this is for a circuit race purpose
2. Power level. Here we really look at power level at the wheels, (true mechanical horsepower accounting for driveline loss in the transmission) and not Brake Horsepower (bhp) or metric hp (Kw/Nm) So, when we ask for what power level you're trying to achieve, it's best to state your power requirements accounting for the driveline loss of about 15%. So, for example, if you're trying to make 350bhp with this turbo setup, we see this as about 300whp, which is what we would help you calculate. (350bhp - 15% = 297.50 measured to the actual wheels). Many people with overseas builds don't think in that way, and therefore, create terrible turbocharger and parts matches for themselves when asking U.S. people what to do, because of this disparity.
Most importantly, you need to state what power level you think you need for this build. If you're not sure, look at similar builds here (you won't find FN2s, but you'll find similar engines with the same efficiencies as the K20Z4, so you can reference that when you search throughout the forum). Without that, it's hard to help your direction.
3. Fuel used. What many people also don't do both in the U.S. and overseas, is state what fuel type for the power that they're looking to make. It becomes confusing because again, turbo match may be a problem. So, please state that, as well as what other fuels are available in your area. E85 here is popular, but many don't realize A)its not for everyone, B) it's not everywhere in the world C) that it's not always necessary.
So, now that this is done,
I'll get a few things out of the way first, then I'll put my particular comments in blue within your original message, so it'll be easier to disseminate. Sound good?
1. The term "track", to most here refers to drag racing, and not circuit racing or "road racing" like in the U.K. So, try to to remember that when you state what the purpose of the car is, which is something you need to do right off the bat when it comes describing what you're attempting with this build here. It's not always as obvious as one my think, but considering you're looking at an oil cooler and other amenities in which more endurance-styled racing requires, I can guess that this is for a circuit race purpose
2. Power level. Here we really look at power level at the wheels, (true mechanical horsepower accounting for driveline loss in the transmission) and not Brake Horsepower (bhp) or metric hp (Kw/Nm) So, when we ask for what power level you're trying to achieve, it's best to state your power requirements accounting for the driveline loss of about 15%. So, for example, if you're trying to make 350bhp with this turbo setup, we see this as about 300whp, which is what we would help you calculate. (350bhp - 15% = 297.50 measured to the actual wheels). Many people with overseas builds don't think in that way, and therefore, create terrible turbocharger and parts matches for themselves when asking U.S. people what to do, because of this disparity.
Most importantly, you need to state what power level you think you need for this build. If you're not sure, look at similar builds here (you won't find FN2s, but you'll find similar engines with the same efficiencies as the K20Z4, so you can reference that when you search throughout the forum). Without that, it's hard to help your direction.
3. Fuel used. What many people also don't do both in the U.S. and overseas, is state what fuel type for the power that they're looking to make. It becomes confusing because again, turbo match may be a problem. So, please state that, as well as what other fuels are available in your area. E85 here is popular, but many don't realize A)its not for everyone, B) it's not everywhere in the world C) that it's not always necessary.
So, now that this is done,
Hi guys, this is my first post on here I've been scouring for years absorbing all of your knowledge.
I'm building/piecing together a kit for my euro civic type r Fn2 with k20z4, I have most of the kit but need some info on a few specifics.
So the parts list:
Gt3076r
I have a sidewinder manifold from an ex civic British touring car - Please post photos of this on another application so we know what you're referring to .
Will be using a tial msv 38mm wastegate
Tial bov -Make sure that if you using this, that you know what the vacuum reading of your engine is. You could easily cause issues if the BOV spring doesn't match the vacuum that the car is reading.
Walbro 255 fuel pump
ID 1000cc injectors -I know that everyone and their grandmother gets these, but unless you're running E85 or high-knock resistant fuel that has low BTUs of energy for combustion, there's no reason to go this big. This is especially true if you're only using a Walboro 255lph G342 Fuel pump.
4bar map sensor - Why? This is unnecessary. You'll make more power than the map sensor can read. There's no advantage to running a larger sensor than needed. Plus, if you need a replacement in an emergency (and with a lot of these lesser expensive one, you will) 3bar map sensors with the same voltage reading exist globally. You have to think reasonably and not just what John Smith ran in his own car.. Rethink this, mate.
Mishimoto oil sandwich plate -
Oil lines and fittings -Don't forget water lines and fittings and PROPER RESTRICTORS too, for this GT3076R turbo.
Vaccum lines
Intercooler and piping
Gold sheeting!
My car will also have fd2 cams and fd2 oil pump and baffle delete kit
So questions:
Turbo oil feed from sandwich plate is fine?
OEM fuel pressure regulator is fine for 380hp?
Vaccum lines for wastegate and bov, drill into inlet manifold then take a line to a vaccum manifold then take lines from there? If so what size lines and fittings do you recommend? I have the RSP inlet manifold.
If you don't want to drill into the intake (not inlet) manifold, you can use an aluminum vacuum block with the largest vacuum source available on the car such as a brake booster or proportioning valve.
My car has a MAP and MAF sensor, I will replace OEM MAP with 4bar sensor. But what do I do with my MAF? Do I swap it for an IAT sensor? If so where is best placement just before the TB in the intake coupling?
Leave the MAF alone, as that's for idle and open loop functions on the car. Again, 3 bar MAP is a better option.
my car is dbw and I will be using Hondata flashpro. Do I need a boost solenoid or boost controller? Boost by gear will be used on this car using flashpro
You need to know the basics of how boost controllers work, so yes, you need a boost solenoid and Hondata as the controller if you plan to use Boost by gear. However, I find that BBG is not needed on circuit or track racing, if that is your intent. Even a manual controller can work for the time being until you understand how BBG works.
Any more advice or items missed let me know!
Cheers in advance!
I'm building/piecing together a kit for my euro civic type r Fn2 with k20z4, I have most of the kit but need some info on a few specifics.
So the parts list:
Gt3076r
I have a sidewinder manifold from an ex civic British touring car - Please post photos of this on another application so we know what you're referring to .
Will be using a tial msv 38mm wastegate
Tial bov -Make sure that if you using this, that you know what the vacuum reading of your engine is. You could easily cause issues if the BOV spring doesn't match the vacuum that the car is reading.
Walbro 255 fuel pump
ID 1000cc injectors -I know that everyone and their grandmother gets these, but unless you're running E85 or high-knock resistant fuel that has low BTUs of energy for combustion, there's no reason to go this big. This is especially true if you're only using a Walboro 255lph G342 Fuel pump.
4bar map sensor - Why? This is unnecessary. You'll make more power than the map sensor can read. There's no advantage to running a larger sensor than needed. Plus, if you need a replacement in an emergency (and with a lot of these lesser expensive one, you will) 3bar map sensors with the same voltage reading exist globally. You have to think reasonably and not just what John Smith ran in his own car.. Rethink this, mate.
Mishimoto oil sandwich plate -
Oil lines and fittings -Don't forget water lines and fittings and PROPER RESTRICTORS too, for this GT3076R turbo.
Vaccum lines
Intercooler and piping
Gold sheeting!
My car will also have fd2 cams and fd2 oil pump and baffle delete kit
So questions:
Turbo oil feed from sandwich plate is fine?
OEM fuel pressure regulator is fine for 380hp?
Vaccum lines for wastegate and bov, drill into inlet manifold then take a line to a vaccum manifold then take lines from there? If so what size lines and fittings do you recommend? I have the RSP inlet manifold.
If you don't want to drill into the intake (not inlet) manifold, you can use an aluminum vacuum block with the largest vacuum source available on the car such as a brake booster or proportioning valve.
My car has a MAP and MAF sensor, I will replace OEM MAP with 4bar sensor. But what do I do with my MAF? Do I swap it for an IAT sensor? If so where is best placement just before the TB in the intake coupling?
Leave the MAF alone, as that's for idle and open loop functions on the car. Again, 3 bar MAP is a better option.
my car is dbw and I will be using Hondata flashpro. Do I need a boost solenoid or boost controller? Boost by gear will be used on this car using flashpro
You need to know the basics of how boost controllers work, so yes, you need a boost solenoid and Hondata as the controller if you plan to use Boost by gear. However, I find that BBG is not needed on circuit or track racing, if that is your intent. Even a manual controller can work for the time being until you understand how BBG works.
Any more advice or items missed let me know!
Cheers in advance!
06-07-2017, 01:18 AM
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Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Hi shodan! Thanks for the welcome, yes the FN2 is great but nothing like the JDM fd2 which was my previous car!Hi shodan! Thanks for the welcome, yes the FN2 is great but nothing like the JDM fd2 which was my previous car!
I'll answer your first pointers.
The car will be a road car mainly with a few circuit days in the year.
i am hoping to achieve 300whp
The fuel I use is the same as your 93 super I believe.
i have attached an image of my manifold for you guys to see.
I haven't bought my bov yet so the total one is not set in stone, any idea where I'd find out the vaccum reading of my engine?
I chose the ID1000 because the cost between them and the 750cc is negligible and seems to be the trend to use 1000cc. If you believe that it is unnecessary then that is fine, but what if in the future I plan to forge the engine and push the power?
Again the reason for me choosing 4bar map sensors is because it seems to be what most people with boosted Honda's go for and what most kits supply. In the UK we have one supplier of turbo kits (TDI north, if you know them) their kit uses 4bar map sensors and 1000cc injectors, as they have had lots of success with their kit I am attempting to mimic it somewhat.
My turbo is water or oil cooled so I'm assuming I would only need oil fittings as I'm choosing oil?
I am happy to drill into the intake manifold, plan would be to run it to a vaccum manifold block so that I can run my bov, wastegate and boost solenoid off of it.
Will leave my MAF alone, however I need to mount it somewhere, do I mount it into the boost pipe going into the TB?
Best position for bov mounting? The UK fn2 kit seems to have the bov fitted into the intake pipe just before the TB.
My tuner will be mapping the car and setting up the boost by gear, I just wanted to check if I needed a solenoid which I do, I'll use the Hondata solenoid unless you have any other suggestions.
I have one more question, I've also attached a pic of my engine bay currently after removing the intake I am left with two hose pipes, where do I connect these?
Cheers in advance
I'll answer your first pointers.
The car will be a road car mainly with a few circuit days in the year.
i am hoping to achieve 300whp
The fuel I use is the same as your 93 super I believe.
i have attached an image of my manifold for you guys to see.
I haven't bought my bov yet so the total one is not set in stone, any idea where I'd find out the vaccum reading of my engine?
I chose the ID1000 because the cost between them and the 750cc is negligible and seems to be the trend to use 1000cc. If you believe that it is unnecessary then that is fine, but what if in the future I plan to forge the engine and push the power?
Again the reason for me choosing 4bar map sensors is because it seems to be what most people with boosted Honda's go for and what most kits supply. In the UK we have one supplier of turbo kits (TDI north, if you know them) their kit uses 4bar map sensors and 1000cc injectors, as they have had lots of success with their kit I am attempting to mimic it somewhat.
My turbo is water or oil cooled so I'm assuming I would only need oil fittings as I'm choosing oil?
I am happy to drill into the intake manifold, plan would be to run it to a vaccum manifold block so that I can run my bov, wastegate and boost solenoid off of it.
Will leave my MAF alone, however I need to mount it somewhere, do I mount it into the boost pipe going into the TB?
Best position for bov mounting? The UK fn2 kit seems to have the bov fitted into the intake pipe just before the TB.
My tuner will be mapping the car and setting up the boost by gear, I just wanted to check if I needed a solenoid which I do, I'll use the Hondata solenoid unless you have any other suggestions.
I have one more question, I've also attached a pic of my engine bay currently after removing the intake I am left with two hose pipes, where do I connect these?
Cheers in advance
06-07-2017, 01:35 AM
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Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Actually yes I do need water lines I just checked, I will get some of them aswell. What about oil restrictor to the turbo, what size do I need? It's a journal bearing turbo
06-07-2017, 06:50 AM
#5
Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
If this is what you have, then yeah. you've got a lot to learn about this thing because you can easily ruin it if you don't get the correct equipment.
06-07-2017, 07:14 AM
#6
Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Making more suggestions in Blue
Hi shodan! Thanks for the welcome, yes the FN2 is great but nothing like the JDM fd2 which was my previous car!
I'll answer your first pointers.
The car will be a road car mainly with a few circuit days in the year.
i am hoping to achieve 300whp - Nice turbo for circuit days, and would work well, even though its a bit on the large side
The fuel I use is the same as your 93 super I believe.
i have attached an image of my manifold for you guys to see.
I haven't bought my bov yet so the total one is not set in stone, any idea where I'd find out the vaccum reading of my engine?
A few ways you could. You can physically attach a boost pressure gauge to a vacuum source like part of the intake manifold, (Not sure if the car uses a booster).
You could have your Hondata hooked up first, and read that from the computer and sensors. Turbosmart is best to get because it has a much wider vacuum spring range already in the BOV vs. the TiAL, in which you can change the springs, but you don't know what you have in there first. I suggest the Turbosmart first.
I chose the ID1000 because the cost between them and the 750cc is negligible and seems to be the trend to use 1000cc. If you believe that it is unnecessary then that is fine, but what if in the future I plan to forge the engine and push the power?
You're on 93 Octane. Unless you plan to change fuels to something like E85, again, it's not necessary. I'm running over 530whp (609bhp) with only 880cc injectors. But that's because 1. I've sleeved and used forged pistons/rods in the engine 2. I use a high-knock resistant fuel that uses higher BTUs. (VP C16), and 3. pushing the power to the stock engine can easily be done without going 1000cc BOSCH-STYLE injectors. There is a BIG difference between Bosch-style 1000cc and RC/Precision/Delphi injectors. You can't use these other companies without pooling the fuel.
Again the reason for me choosing 4bar map sensors is because it seems to be what most people with boosted Honda's go for and what most kits supply. In the UK we have one supplier of turbo kits (TDI north, if you know them) their kit uses 4bar map sensors and 1000cc injectors, as they have had lots of success with their kit I am attempting to mimic it somewhat.
that's because many people don't educate themselves on what parts are necessary for their use. They just blindly follow what others do because they can, plus those individuals go into a lot of drag racing. You can't follow what they do just because they use a turbocharged Honda too. You have to think of your purpose more than what others are doing. Get a 3bar and be reasonable. I've noticed these Hondata versions of the 4 bar tend to fail on a regular basis. Many here think a MAP sensor failure is normal. IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR ONE TO FAIL.
My turbo is water or oil cooled so I'm assuming I would only need oil fittings as I'm choosing oil?
You need to know what "water cooling" means. In the Garrett GT-R series, it's ball-bearing with no other option. Even if it was oil cooled only. Water cooling is best to use with turbochargers. Look at any of your factory-turbocharged applications.. Do you see them without water lines? No. Using water lines is an investment to save your turbocharger, not a cost.
I'll put it another way. If I told you to drive your car on a session at Silverstone without water/coolant in your radiator, you tell me that I was straight MAD. But then you think its ok to rotate something 20x the speed of your engine without water to help cool things down? Does that makes sense to you?
I am happy to drill into the intake manifold, plan would be to run it to a vaccum manifold block so that I can run my bov, wastegate and boost solenoid off of it.
Umm. Don't drill the intake manifold to USE the Vaccum Block.. that's separate. hehe. If you're going to use the vacuum block, don't drill into the intake manifold. If you're NOT going to use the vacuum block, then just go into the intake manifold.
Will leave my MAF alone, however I need to mount it somewhere, do I mount it into the boost pipe going into the TB?
Moving it will cause idle problems. Gotta leave it where it is.
Best position for bov mounting? The UK fn2 kit seems to have the bov fitted into the intake pipe just before the TB.
Yep. that's the right spot. Has to be between the intercooler and TB
My tuner will be mapping the car and setting up the boost by gear, I just wanted to check if I needed a solenoid which I do, I'll use the Hondata solenoid unless you have any other suggestions.
They like to use the MAC solenoid which is a common one. I don't use them but they will work for your street purpose. Although I don't recommend trying to use it on the circuit..
For 300whp, there's no reason to use it much except on the rainer days, but that's when a better tyre would work more effectively on a BBG. That's just from my experience with that software.
I have one more question, I've also attached a pic of my engine bay currently after removing the intake I am left with two hose pipes, where do I connect these?
I need to see the entire engine bay with them attached first. The FN2 layout is just WAY different than other K-series platforms.
Cheers in advance
I'll answer your first pointers.
The car will be a road car mainly with a few circuit days in the year.
i am hoping to achieve 300whp - Nice turbo for circuit days, and would work well, even though its a bit on the large side
The fuel I use is the same as your 93 super I believe.
i have attached an image of my manifold for you guys to see.
I haven't bought my bov yet so the total one is not set in stone, any idea where I'd find out the vaccum reading of my engine?
A few ways you could. You can physically attach a boost pressure gauge to a vacuum source like part of the intake manifold, (Not sure if the car uses a booster).
You could have your Hondata hooked up first, and read that from the computer and sensors. Turbosmart is best to get because it has a much wider vacuum spring range already in the BOV vs. the TiAL, in which you can change the springs, but you don't know what you have in there first. I suggest the Turbosmart first.
I chose the ID1000 because the cost between them and the 750cc is negligible and seems to be the trend to use 1000cc. If you believe that it is unnecessary then that is fine, but what if in the future I plan to forge the engine and push the power?
You're on 93 Octane. Unless you plan to change fuels to something like E85, again, it's not necessary. I'm running over 530whp (609bhp) with only 880cc injectors. But that's because 1. I've sleeved and used forged pistons/rods in the engine 2. I use a high-knock resistant fuel that uses higher BTUs. (VP C16), and 3. pushing the power to the stock engine can easily be done without going 1000cc BOSCH-STYLE injectors. There is a BIG difference between Bosch-style 1000cc and RC/Precision/Delphi injectors. You can't use these other companies without pooling the fuel.
Again the reason for me choosing 4bar map sensors is because it seems to be what most people with boosted Honda's go for and what most kits supply. In the UK we have one supplier of turbo kits (TDI north, if you know them) their kit uses 4bar map sensors and 1000cc injectors, as they have had lots of success with their kit I am attempting to mimic it somewhat.
that's because many people don't educate themselves on what parts are necessary for their use. They just blindly follow what others do because they can, plus those individuals go into a lot of drag racing. You can't follow what they do just because they use a turbocharged Honda too. You have to think of your purpose more than what others are doing. Get a 3bar and be reasonable. I've noticed these Hondata versions of the 4 bar tend to fail on a regular basis. Many here think a MAP sensor failure is normal. IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR ONE TO FAIL.
My turbo is water or oil cooled so I'm assuming I would only need oil fittings as I'm choosing oil?
You need to know what "water cooling" means. In the Garrett GT-R series, it's ball-bearing with no other option. Even if it was oil cooled only. Water cooling is best to use with turbochargers. Look at any of your factory-turbocharged applications.. Do you see them without water lines? No. Using water lines is an investment to save your turbocharger, not a cost.
I'll put it another way. If I told you to drive your car on a session at Silverstone without water/coolant in your radiator, you tell me that I was straight MAD. But then you think its ok to rotate something 20x the speed of your engine without water to help cool things down? Does that makes sense to you?
I am happy to drill into the intake manifold, plan would be to run it to a vaccum manifold block so that I can run my bov, wastegate and boost solenoid off of it.
Umm. Don't drill the intake manifold to USE the Vaccum Block.. that's separate. hehe. If you're going to use the vacuum block, don't drill into the intake manifold. If you're NOT going to use the vacuum block, then just go into the intake manifold.
Will leave my MAF alone, however I need to mount it somewhere, do I mount it into the boost pipe going into the TB?
Moving it will cause idle problems. Gotta leave it where it is.
Best position for bov mounting? The UK fn2 kit seems to have the bov fitted into the intake pipe just before the TB.
Yep. that's the right spot. Has to be between the intercooler and TB
My tuner will be mapping the car and setting up the boost by gear, I just wanted to check if I needed a solenoid which I do, I'll use the Hondata solenoid unless you have any other suggestions.
They like to use the MAC solenoid which is a common one. I don't use them but they will work for your street purpose. Although I don't recommend trying to use it on the circuit..
For 300whp, there's no reason to use it much except on the rainer days, but that's when a better tyre would work more effectively on a BBG. That's just from my experience with that software.
I have one more question, I've also attached a pic of my engine bay currently after removing the intake I am left with two hose pipes, where do I connect these?
I need to see the entire engine bay with them attached first. The FN2 layout is just WAY different than other K-series platforms.
Cheers in advance
06-07-2017, 07:59 AM
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Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
I'll start with your post regarding the turbo, I should have said that it isn't a garret but rather a replica of the 3076r. It's not a cheap chin we rep and has been used in many ep3R over here with great effect. It is journal bearing and I will be water cooling it now I have done some reading!
So, knowing my power goals etc you'd say 750cc isore than enough? Why is it people go overkill on the injectors if they're not needed or is it a case of they think bigger is naturally better?
Thats why I'm here to educate myself on this topic more, I have some knowledge but want to have all the knowledge I need so I can do this right! I've also heard of map sensor failures from Hondata. Not ideal.. so a 3 bar sensor do you have any recommendations?
Right, now you have confused me with the vac lines :p. I've read of various methods of taking the vac lines from on here and k20a.org. some have said to tap into the intake manifold and take a line to a vacuum block and run, bov, wastegate etc from the outlets on the vacuum block?
So leave my MAF flapping around in the engine bay not hooked into any piping? Because that's how it is now after I removed my skunk2 CAI.
have attached a picture of my engine bay with the hoses connected. You should recognise the intake it's a us civic one
.
So, knowing my power goals etc you'd say 750cc isore than enough? Why is it people go overkill on the injectors if they're not needed or is it a case of they think bigger is naturally better?
Thats why I'm here to educate myself on this topic more, I have some knowledge but want to have all the knowledge I need so I can do this right! I've also heard of map sensor failures from Hondata. Not ideal.. so a 3 bar sensor do you have any recommendations?
Right, now you have confused me with the vac lines :p. I've read of various methods of taking the vac lines from on here and k20a.org. some have said to tap into the intake manifold and take a line to a vacuum block and run, bov, wastegate etc from the outlets on the vacuum block?
So leave my MAF flapping around in the engine bay not hooked into any piping? Because that's how it is now after I removed my skunk2 CAI.
have attached a picture of my engine bay with the hoses connected. You should recognise the intake it's a us civic one
.
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06-07-2017, 01:34 PM
#8
Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
I'll start with your post regarding the turbo, I should have said that it isn't a garret but rather a replica of the 3076r. It's not a cheap chin we rep and has been used in many ep3R over here with great effect. It is journal bearing and I will be water cooling it now I have done some reading!
Sure, ok, I suppose.
When you say GT3076R. We expect GT3076R. A "Replica" of it isn't a GT3076R..
With that said, that means you'll need to find out what size fittings, restrictors and the like are used. Since it's not a Garrett, and a replica, we can't answer that for you, without more information.
So, knowing my power goals etc you'd say 750cc isore than enough? Why is it people go overkill on the injectors if they're not needed or is it a case of they think bigger is naturally better?
Because you're looking at us Americans. The land of "Bigger is always better, even if it makes no sense to do so.". . Yes. 750cc is fine for that fuel. Your mapper will appreciate it. I know they're a bit more skiddish & conservative there than those that work in the U.S.
Thats why I'm here to educate myself on this topic more, I have some knowledge but want to have all the knowledge I need so I can do this right! I've also heard of map sensor failures from Hondata. Not ideal.. so a 3 bar sensor do you have any recommendations?
My recommendation has always been the GM/Opel 3Bar map sensor that's used on older V8 cars and Turbo Solstice. You may have to cross reference with OPEL or Vauxhall. I can show you what they look like from the U.S perspective, but you may have to do some cross referencing for part numbers for where you are locally.
Right, now you have confused me with the vac lines :p. I've read of various methods of taking the vac lines from on here and k20a.org. some have said to tap into the intake manifold and take a line to a vacuum block and run, bov, wastegate etc from the outlets on the vacuum block?
As I've pointed out, there's more than one way to do this. What you're seeing are the methods on how to do it both ways. Vacuum blocks are cleaner to install and easier to have when it comes to diagnosis for vacuum leaks and accurate readings. I personally use option B more.
So leave my MAF flapping around in the engine bay not hooked into any piping? Because that's how it is now after I removed my skunk2 CAI.
You may want to contact Hondata themselves to find out if that MAF can be safely relocated so that it gives an accurate reading, or if it may have to be integrated into the intake itself off of the turbocharger. The MAF is for good startup and idle in open loop ready by the main ECU. We don't have both on our K-series here. That's why I say you may need to call Hondata directly for that particular nuance.
have attached a picture of my engine bay with the hoses connected. You should recognise the intake it's a us civic one.
The one on the valve cover acts as a psudo PCV system. That can go back into the intake manifold using a one-way check valve. OR it can simply be blocked off.
The other one looks also like a vacuum for the fuel rail/regulator. That may be able to be blocked off too. You won't use half of the hose kits you had originally when going turbo, anyway.
Sure, ok, I suppose.
When you say GT3076R. We expect GT3076R. A "Replica" of it isn't a GT3076R.. With that said, that means you'll need to find out what size fittings, restrictors and the like are used. Since it's not a Garrett, and a replica, we can't answer that for you, without more information.
So, knowing my power goals etc you'd say 750cc isore than enough? Why is it people go overkill on the injectors if they're not needed or is it a case of they think bigger is naturally better?
Because you're looking at us Americans. The land of "Bigger is always better, even if it makes no sense to do so.". . Yes. 750cc is fine for that fuel. Your mapper will appreciate it. I know they're a bit more skiddish & conservative there than those that work in the U.S.
Thats why I'm here to educate myself on this topic more, I have some knowledge but want to have all the knowledge I need so I can do this right! I've also heard of map sensor failures from Hondata. Not ideal.. so a 3 bar sensor do you have any recommendations?
My recommendation has always been the GM/Opel 3Bar map sensor that's used on older V8 cars and Turbo Solstice. You may have to cross reference with OPEL or Vauxhall. I can show you what they look like from the U.S perspective, but you may have to do some cross referencing for part numbers for where you are locally.
Right, now you have confused me with the vac lines :p. I've read of various methods of taking the vac lines from on here and k20a.org. some have said to tap into the intake manifold and take a line to a vacuum block and run, bov, wastegate etc from the outlets on the vacuum block?
As I've pointed out, there's more than one way to do this. What you're seeing are the methods on how to do it both ways. Vacuum blocks are cleaner to install and easier to have when it comes to diagnosis for vacuum leaks and accurate readings. I personally use option B more.
So leave my MAF flapping around in the engine bay not hooked into any piping? Because that's how it is now after I removed my skunk2 CAI.
You may want to contact Hondata themselves to find out if that MAF can be safely relocated so that it gives an accurate reading, or if it may have to be integrated into the intake itself off of the turbocharger. The MAF is for good startup and idle in open loop ready by the main ECU. We don't have both on our K-series here. That's why I say you may need to call Hondata directly for that particular nuance.
have attached a picture of my engine bay with the hoses connected. You should recognise the intake it's a us civic one
.The one on the valve cover acts as a psudo PCV system. That can go back into the intake manifold using a one-way check valve. OR it can simply be blocked off.
The other one looks also like a vacuum for the fuel rail/regulator. That may be able to be blocked off too. You won't use half of the hose kits you had originally when going turbo, anyway.
06-08-2017, 10:01 AM
#9
GDD Lonely Krew
Re: Ashmex's UK FN2 K20Z4 First turbo progress build
Actually the 8th gen Si has both MAP and MAF sensors. I would know cause I have one
BTW your turbo manifold is facking **** mate, got to love real motorsport equipment. Wish we had stuff like that available here... Was it a pretty penny or did you get a deal on it?
BTW your turbo manifold is facking **** mate, got to love real motorsport equipment. Wish we had stuff like that available here... Was it a pretty penny or did you get a deal on it?
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