Arthas

Alright so my brother and I both got generic turbo kits from the local shop for $700/piece.
I have a D16Y8 and he has a B18B

I now have:
-Generic .50 trim
-2.5" piping
-Johnny Racecar intercooler
-Silicone couplers
-T-clamps
-Oil catch can (wtf?)
-Turbo timer
-Log manifold
-Waste-gate
-Boost controller
-SSQ BOV
-Rywire OBD2B-OBD1
-P28 (awaiting)
-DSM 450CC's w/ resistor box


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So all in all, my brother wants to get his done at a shop, im doing mine with my craftsman tool box. He doesn't want me to do it because the last the shop screwed him over with his install so he wants to get it installed a different shop for $600 w/ tune. Im going to prove him wrong and im going to do it myself. I dont know ****, I can do a header install, oil change lulz, intake install yadda yadda.

I pieced the kit together, and read through a DIY and it looks like its a super easy install. This thread is just to ask a few questions in case I hit a small speed bump on the road. Im going to install it 02/14/10 (one day before my 1 year anniversary of being jobless). Im trying to piece together **** before I install it. Is there anything you guys recommend I upgrade before I throw it on? The oil feed line is rubber with a steel braided wrap and the return line is a steel braided line. Ive heard bad things about oil lines so if theres anything let me know please. The car will be driven 20 miles on a basemap to the tuner, then it will have a full tune.

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I just need an
-Extra cut off wheel to chop off block incase turbo hits the ridges
-Drill bit for oil feed line on oil pan
-Correct couplers for FMIC to charge pipe etc.

Anything else you guys recommend I pick up before the install?
Any tips on installing the boost controller?
Any tips on installing the wastegate? It has 2 spacer plates and I dont see how the would work.

Arthas

Please allow me to keep my AC log manifold.

AbitAvenger

I wouldnt use that filter, looks pretty restrictive

jacob4lester

looks like the only thing that can get through that filter is hopes and dreams

Arthas

Oh im not using that filter, not a chance. Im using my AEM dry flow filter from my current intake, Dominic Torreto would approve.

I sold that filter for $5 to a friend with a Geo Prizm.

jacob4lester

hahaha toretto, good choice with the filter where you gonna mount the turbo??

Silva Bullit DC4

1) I recommend you pick up a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump & an aftermarket MAP sensor depending on your power goal. IF your power goal will demand your setup to go past 11 psi to make that goal, you're gonna need one.

2) Post pics of your boost controller, as different models have their inlet & outlet fittings in different locations.

3) Post pics of your wastegate. The two "spacer plates" you speak of are the inlet & outlet flanges. Exhaust pressure from the manifold pass thru the inlet (bottom flange), the spring in the wastegate regulates how much boost pressure passes thru the outlet (side flange). You will have to have a dumptube fabbed for the outlet to keep searing hot exhaust gases out of the engine bay and away from the inlet of the turbo.

Arthas

Yeah thats the DIY ive been reading, its pretty good.



It also came with yellow hosing for this. Where do those lines go?


Im guessing thats the T fitting for the oil line behind the block. Anybody know what that little bracket is for? It


What line connects to that fitting?




Self explanatory lol.
How do I get the rubber hosing over the red "bolts"? The line gets a snug fit on it, but the red "bolt" doesnt slide over the line. Am I supposed to squeeze it in or something?




This is to be taken to the muffler shop to get a custom dump tube fabbed up?






Does that end require a donut gasket of some sort? It came with a regular gasket similar to the ones that the turbo, manifold etc use.

Arthas

1. Ill keep an eye out for the Walbro fuel pump. Im not planning on going any higher than 7psi since my motor is stock from top to bottom. Will I still need the higher bar MAP sensor?

2. Pics posted.

3. So I give the plate to my local muffler shop and they can weld up a custom dump tube?

93grayeg

iTrader: (1)

your stock map sensor will be fine

P.S.I Garage

Unscrew the red part of the fitting and slide it over the line. Then use the blue fitting an screw it into the red end. Use lube if necessary.

Arthas

Another question. Will I need to install a new flange on the exhaust itself since it might be too small for the down pipe?? And does the down pipe use donut gaskets?

BLOX has the 2.25" ones, not sure if I need it though.

reactiondc2

the silver fitting is to be welded to the oilpan for the return...the red nut goes on the end of the hose,then you screw it on to the blue fitting ...that will force the end of the fitting into the braided line...look for a diy on how to assemble an fittings if you need further assistance

lyncoors

not a fan of the dryflow air filters

Arthas

Thanks man, Yeah it looks like itll go on but it looks like a bitch.

Ive been using it for about a year and not a problem with it. Im sure it will last longer than the foam filter it came with ahah.




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My powder coat guy sent me this pic. Pipes, FMIC and VC are done and my brothers will be done tomorrow. Hopefully the NXS boost controller arrives tomorrow along with the header wrap I ordered for the down pipe. *prays*

Arthas

Alright started test fitting the parts right now and everything seems to line up alright.

I have a few questions though:
1. I couldnt get the oil return line inside of the red fittings so I slid it into the feed port and put some clamps over it. Its nice and tight and doesnt come off with all of my brute strength. Is it okay to leave it like that??

2. I was reading about "rotating turbos" and it seems to me like I need to do that. If you see in the pic, the oil feed line is at the bottom and the return is at the top. That doesnt look too good. So I basically unbolt the oil "sandwich" from both ends of the turbo, twist it 180 degrees then bolt it back up??

3. On the top of the wastegate, theres a fitting for a rubber line, where does that line go?

4. Does the waste gate set up look alright??

lyncoors

yes you'll need to clock the turbo so the drain is facing down. my thing on dryflo filters i don't like them on a turbo car they are restrictive

Silvertc

iTrader: (1)

Yes, he will. I don't know why the guy up there posted saying you need to get a new map sensor. I highly doubt you will be running many lbs(10-15+) of boost with this kit before you need to actually change the map sensor.

Also if you plan running 7-10psi at most, you'll be fine on stock fuel pump. People shouldn't post if they don't know what there talking about or had experience about this.

LightningTeg

Do yourself a favor and get a felpro exhaust gasket from autozone, or reuse the stock one. The one that came with the kit will fall apart in a few months and start leaking like a bitch.

tofast4uh22

^^^ you sir need to stop talking if you dont have correct information. the stock map sensor can only read to 11psi. after that it will need a upgrade to be able to read higher boost and to map for it.

Seraph0

Ah I remember when I installed my first turbo kit. I bugged ol' Ben @ Importparts about it for 6 months until it was ready. I had no idea what I was doing. But here we are over ten years later and the car is still running with the same engine and same turbo kit lol. You can do it!

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

G/L to yeah just ask questions and read. check everything 3times.

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

Love the thread title! Good luck with the build.

dpetro1

i just skimmed through but something major i noticed...you say you want to keep A/C but you have a non-AC downpipe. you currently have the turbo mounted with the compressor on the drivers side, this will not work with AC and if you flip it then your DP wont fit.

0611den

seems to me ,that u have a lot of reading to do.

no effence but if you have questions like that,looks like me u have a long way to go.

read a lot and it will all be fine.good luck with the build