falcongsr

just curious if anyone is using the narrowband output to their ECU to emulate the stock o2 sensor.

i am about to build a circuit that does this (based on how its done in the techedge 1.5).

my techedge 1.0 doesnt have this and i would rather do this than take my downpipe to tony1 and have a 2nd o2 bung welded. i have all the parts here to make the circuit its about 10 parts on a little radio shack circuit board.

so anyone use it yet?

thanks,
Joe

falcongsr

well then i guess not.

i'll be the guinea pig.

going to build the circuit tomorrow evening. testing this weekend hopefully.

Prelude91siT

i know somebody who uses it. i also will be using it once i get my 2.0 version. the guy i know uses a douple pole switch and has the ecu connected in the middle so all he has to do is flip a switch when hes done tuning

Ricey McRicerton

Sorry I missed this thread before. I am using the narrowband output on my 1.5 and it works like a charm. I still have the 02 hooked up under the hood thogh (need another bung for it) because everytime I take it out I get a 02 sensor heater code. I tried running a 30 resistor in there (about what I measured the 02 at when it was hot and they got SUPER HOT (like start a fire hot) so I took them out.

falcongsr

good to hear about the 1.5 working, as thats basically the same circuit i am using.

hrm. forgot about the o2 sensor heater circuit. i'll have to come up with something for that...need to use multiple resistors in parallel to dissipate heat better.

at some point i'll look at the heater driver circuit in my ECU. there might be a simple way to bypass the circuit that senses the heater "failure". even more svelte would be disabling it in the ECU code but i dont know if that would be easier / harder for me.

raene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hrm. forgot about the o2 sensor heater circuit. i'll have to come up with something for that...need to use multiple resistors in parallel to dissipate heat better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

FWIW klatinn suggested using an 18W brake light bulb as an O2 sensor resistor simulator thingie... that's what I was going to try when I *finally* go OBDI

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=663414

Flamenco-T

Joe, if you don't know, how am I supposed to know lol

stan

guido-kp

hey Falcon hows about hooking it up with the circuit schematic? i also have a 1.0 and would like this functionality of a narrowband output, as well. thanks

falcongsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guido-kp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey Falcon hows about hooking it up with the circuit schematic? i also have a 1.0 and would like this functionality of a narrowband output, as well. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

there might be a little black box available soon to do this...


http://www.techedge.com.au/veh...m.htm look for the narrowband output schematic. need wideband input and 2.5V reference, op amp acts as comparator swinging voltage around stoich, then a voltage divider takes it down to 0-1V like stock sensor (56k,10k) then last element is 4066b which is an analog switch to emulate the Hi impedance of the stock o2 while warming up

falcongsr

you ran a 30 ohm resistor? How big was the resistor. was it a 1-2Watt size?

Ricey McRicerton

They were some spare resistors I had lying around...ran a couple in parallel to get down to 30 ohms. I think I ran 3 100 ohm resistors in parallel and they got so hot I thought it would start a fire. But the narrowband output works well.

falcongsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They were some spare resistors I had lying around...ran a couple in parallel to get down to 30 ohms. I think I ran 3 100 ohm resistors in parallel and they got so hot I thought it would start a fire. But the narrowband output works well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how big physically were they? i bet they were small 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt will be too small.

you need something like these monsters . in real life they are like 2" long



10 watts of heat dissipation. these should only get warm.

radioshack.

falcongsr

narrowband circuit plus power monitor to control wideband.

power monitor will turn on the wideband when the battery voltage jumps up to 13volts. that way the wideband turns on when the car is on (alternator charging)

hopefully the battery voltage doesnt drop below 13 when the car is on otherwise the wideband will turn off. hmm i wonder if my car will turn off the alternator and screw this up.... crap.