vtec.dc2

Do you daily drive - lots of hwy? or just for track?

Rod.

that is a thick *** weight

RedStarGsr

whats the purpose?

11psiTurboSI

5w-30 for me!

jonnybravo

Do you burn any oil?

JDMorgan

my friend(builds motors for local machine shop) said next time my motor starts knocking put gear oil in it right away. it can over tripple the life of the motor. i think he said only use a quart tho. more and u wont be abled to go over 10mph. lol

TurboBumblBee

im gonna switch over to 10w-30 this oil change and see how it does


i think ITR206 just put in some 20w50 oil into his car...

fjt

I USE 10w-40

JDMorgan

y would you need such a thick oil? wouldnt it hurt performance?

lgcubana

I use 20W50 myself. My premise is the additional heat that the turbo creates in the engine would raise the oil temp. As the oil heats up it would thin out. That's my reasoning for being able to drive a SOHC 1.6 on such a heavy weight. The whole reasoning for using 20W50 is that it would hold up better to the abuse than a lighter weight.
But on my next change I'm going to try a 3:1 ratio of 10W30 to Marvel Mystery Oil. Just to compare.

Nick7

I use 10w60....

showtymers619

hey for all you that are running 20-50 .. your car isnt a nas car or a f1 or a diesel truck or a 4x4 truck... if your using full synthetic thats basicly all you need...real up on what actual oil really is suppose to do..heres a few things
get inbetween the bearings and disipate head from the piston/cylinderwallsand keep the cylinderwalls slick

PM-Performance

i just switched from 10w30 to 20w50. the 10w30 was burning up like crazy in my motor. as soon as i switched out my oil prssure went uptoo. that **** is wayy too thin for my cars likings. also the heat takes alot into play. i think the biggest prob is becuase my oil gets sooo hot it burns up the thinner stuff. i drained the oil the other day from a 5 min drive babying it and the oil was smoking hot . and i seriously mean smoking.

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShowTymers619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey for all you that are running 20-50 .. your car isnt a nas car or a f1 or a diesel truck or a 4x4 truck... if your using full synthetic thats basicly all you need...real up on what actual oil really is suppose to do..heres a few things
get inbetween the bearings and disipate head from the piston/cylinderwallsand keep the cylinderwalls slick</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you aware that at certain temps Xw50 oil will be same weight as Xw30, while you'll be safe with Xw50, you won't have same results with Xw30. its all about the temps you reach, and having the right oil weight for that temp range. turbo heat things up a whole lot so does outside temp.

and i run conventional, do they make anything higher than 20w50 conventional?

showtymers619

you might have a cooling issue... LOL are you using full synthetic.. cuz ive have 2 boosted cars on 5-30 full synthetic and done long drive hard driving and never burned any oil.. maybe becasue i had a low temp fan switch and thermostat
oh ya also i was boosting 11 psi on one car daily.. and 1 bar on the other daily

after spending all that money in your car your gonna run cheap oil wow

also with such a high grade thickness of oil you prolly are putting wear on your bearing since it cannot lubricate it properly.. unlesss the tolerance of your bearings are set to that spec of oil thickness

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShowTymers619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might have a cooling issue... LOL are you using full synthetic.. cuz ive have 2 boosted cars on 5-30 full synthetic and done long drive hard driving and never burned any oil.. maybe becasue i had a low temp fan switch and thermostat
oh ya also i was boosting 11 psi on one car daily.. and 1 bar on the other daily</TD></TR></TABLE>

you 5w30 must have properties of a higher weight oil, what type of oil do you use?

showtymers619

mobil 1, the reason alot of you people are having burned oil is because of the flash point of your oil just lettign you know

showtymers619

if you guys are intrested read on oil

http://www.walnutcreekhonda.com/glossary_terms.htm

http://www.bestchoice-car-care....html

http://www.motoroilbible.com/ebook.html

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

read on those and you all shall be enlightend LOL ehhehe and your welcome too

vtec.dc2

hmm.. that one is just what it is 5w30. are you not pushing as much hp then? how much whp does your setup make?

showtymers619

290 on 11 psi and 368 on 1 bar

and im on my next project also
b16 block built gsr head t3t4 60-1
at 1 bar i should break 400 this time

im pretty sure my hp isnt the factor either

how much whp do you have?

JonGP4

i ran 20w-50 for about 1000 miles, and the wrist pin came flying out the front of the block.. machine shop and a bunch of people around here say its because i didn't have enough splash to lubracate the wrist pins, cuz the oil was to thick.. only reason i switched to that was because it was burning it like a mother,
and yes there was enough oil the motor when it went, about 2 quarts on the road, and 2 1/2 in the pan when i pulled it

showtymers619

jsut try to use fullsythetic if your arent i mean it might be 20 bucks for 5 quarts but imaging going cheap on your blood transfusion LOL

PM-Performance

why is it that you consider reg oil cheap? i dont like synth oil . i run conventional and it works for me fine. its just that the oil temps get too high on my motor. the 10w30 was way too thin. its aparent when my oil pressures went up when i switched.


as far as the wrist pin breaking on 20w50, thats wierd.

vtec.dc2

i'm at 260whp. for me, its not about oil consumption once i switched to higher weight, i'm more concerned about proper lubrication for summer temps, i do lots of hwy driving + boost in/out.

and i always used conventional, i end up changing it every 2K.. why waiste money on something that doesn't improve.

showtymers619

your saying theres no improvement in regular oil vs fullsythetic?

you need to do some homeowrk


wait let me do it for you real quick

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html


The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available

Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc

<U>20W-50</U>
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 &lt;.5 ---
Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
Red Line 150 503 -49 --- ---
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 &lt;1.5 .12

<U>20W-40</U>
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---

<U>15W-50</U>
Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- ---
Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 152 503 -49 --- ---

<U>5W-50</U>
Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10.095 % Phosphor
Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- ---
Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- ---

<U>5W-40</U>
Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 ---

<U>15W-40</U>
AMSOIL 135 460 -38 &lt;.5 ---
Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 149 495 -40 --- ---
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13

<U>10W-30</U>
AMSOIL 142 480 -70 &lt;.5 ---
Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
Red Line 139 475 -40 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 &lt;1.5 .12

<U>5W-30 </U>
AMSOIL 168 480 -76 &lt;.5 ---
Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
Chevron '' '' Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- ---
Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
Red Line 151 455 -49 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13
Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 &lt;1.5 .12

If you have problems with your oil suck as proctection worries and oil consumption, and people that has high reving and turbo charged vihecle please look at <U>%ZINC</U> specificly

<U>Viscosity </U>Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown


<U>Flash point</U> is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.


<U>% zinc</U> is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content.<U> More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. </U>High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.


and i quote

"The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application. "