LiLOtaku

I've known about Amsoil for a little while now and I was wonderng if anyone on this board uses the Heavy duty filter and Race oil. I still haven't gotten a clear answer on how well this sytem works, I just know that people claim that they can go 7k miles until having to do the oil change, and the filter are supposed to last for about 6 months.

Just needed some more input.

DSF

I don't care if you have holy oil sent straight from God himself, I wouldn't wait for 7000 miles for even my worst enemies next oil/filter change.

But, yes, Amsoil produces some fine products. I have used Amsoil, mobil 1, Redline, etc. products in the past, but I think they are more of a waste of money. Don't get me wrong, they all good products. I just prefer buying cheaper regular oil and changing it and the filter (I use OEM) every 2000 miles. But that's me.

LiLOtaku

mos

Isn't 'race oil' the stuff that is detergent free? Thats stuffs not for the street. Its also single grade from what I've seen. And not many races last thousands of miles so...ya.

89dxhunchback

Amsoil is the mack. Most 1000hp buick guys use it. Cal hartline runs 8.40s in his buick GN, guess what he has 5 cases of in his garage ? BTW its a DAILY driven car, hows that for a sleeper ?...

Amsoil is like $.50 more expesisive per quart vs mobil 1 sysn., and mobil one gets DOGGED by amsoil.

Civic gets model 1 b/c its a beater/simi-daily driver
Stealth gets amsoil b/c the replacemnt short block is $3000.00

Xscream

Set aside the claims about the 7000 or 25,000 mile drain intervals..

The real amsoil (not the consumer, run in your every day car stuff) is the **** Hastings filters are a high quality filter. I don't think they are by any means the best but they are almost the same as the donaldson and are much cheaper.

1FSTMAX

That is just an ignorant comment. I tell ya what, why don't we both put our pink slips up and I'll drive 7k on Amsoil and an Amsoil filter and we will get any oil analysis company of your choice to analyse the oil and if it comes back good, I get your title, if it comes back bad, you can take mine. Sound good?

Amsoil has had long drain intervals for over 30 years and has never once been sued and the oil found at fault for any failures. I've used Amsoil with extended drain intervals of up to 25k for over 10 years no and I have yet to receive a bad oil analysis from Blackstone labs. Mobil 1 is good for 10k with a filter change.

The Amsoil oil filters are very good, but they aren't quite as good as the K&N and Mobil 1 filters. The K&N and Mobil 1 are both made by Champion Labs. They both filter to a smaller micron level than the Amsoil and still maintain proper oil flow. Your not going to see any hp difference or mileage difference between Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, any "Fully synthetic oil". I use Amsoil strictly because it's the best in every category. While Amsoil used to be far superior than all the others, oils like Mobil 1's SuperSyn have narrowed that lead considerably. Go to http://www.maxima.org and check out the fluids and lubricants section. They have tons of credible info based on facts and not ignorant statements like I've seen here. They also have an oil analysis spreadsheet with tons of top oils, transmission fluids, etc. http://www.svtperformance.com and do a search on Amsoil and you will find tons of great info. Do the same search on http://www.dodgetrucks.org. That's just a few sites and I can provide more if you would like.

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml


http://www.shoclub.com/lubrica...5.htm

http://neptune.spacebears.com/....html

DSF

You may notice I never said Amsoil was a bad product or their claims were lies. Quite the contrary. I still scoff at extended oil change intervals, however. Not because of oil breakdown, but because of the amount of contaminents an engine produces in it's everyday life, be it carbon or just plain old metal shavings. <U>I prefer</U> frequent oil changes to infrequent ones. Because of that I use less expensive oil. If I could afford changing Amsoil every 2k believe me, I would. It's good stuff.

And no thanks, I think I'll keep my car. Thanks for the offer though.

1FSTMAX

There's nothing wrong with that. If it makes you feel better to do it more often then I wouldn't hesitate to do it. I like most could not shake the 3k oil change out of my head. I did 5k, then 7k, then 10k and so on until oil analysis showed some bad reports. Another comment you made was also spot on. Contaminants! While the Amsoil filters state 12,500 miles, I've talked to many Amsoil reps and they all agree that's ludicrous. I have never seen any oil analysis with filter changes that long so it's just my opinion when I say that 5-7k on any filter should be the max. I've torn apart, Fram, Fram tough guard (both are identical inside by the way. They only changed the housing to feel more solid and take us all for extra money), Mobil 1, K&N and Amsoil oil filters. I've seen many reviews and from tearing them apart myself, I have to say that the Mobil 1 and K&N are the best made filters I've seen and they are cheaper than the Amsoil. Generally, the OEM filters are very high quality and above average for paper media oil filters. STP and PureOne filters are also good paper media filters. Like I mentioned before, Mobil 1 SuperSyn is a great oil. They lost alot of credibility with the TriSyn. Mobil 1 TriSyn used petroleum base stock and was labelled a class III synthetic rather than a class IV like Amsoil and Redline. The SuperSyn is indeed a class IV and looking at the oil analysis of real world driving on http://www.maxima.org, it's a damn good one at that.

dattegbol

my shop has been around for 30 years and we have used amsoil in all of our race cars and our street driven cars . in our thundercar racecars the oil gets changed once a season and we teardown the engines every year and every thing is always fine. we also have many club racers using amsoil 3000 series oils who only get full oil changes every 20k and just get a filter and top it off every 7k. we have yet tyo have any car using amsoil products to have any malfunctions due to oil. these are all our race cars , circle track/ club racers/drag/ buggys all of them never had a prob. we've even drained oil out of a race car and put it in another b/c it had only half a season on it. i'm sold

JeremyL

well my gf's 97 teg has amsoil in it and my WRX has royal purple, ill see if they stand the test of time, after almost 3k very hard hi boosted miles the RP is still nice and golden and isnt even starting to get dark

lazerus

amsoil & filters in all hard driven vehicles here.

1FSTMAX

Royal Purple samples definately don't do well at all on extended drain intervals, so make sure you change it every 4k or so. Royal Purple is a Class III oil and not a class IV oil I believe or at least it was that way a year ago. Don't ever go by the color of your oil. All motor oil turns black do to carbon unless you have a bypass filter. With a bypass filter and Amsoil you can go 100k or more on an oil change, but the cost of the filters wouldn't save you any money. Every car model is different and some may have more problems with carbon that others. Even though your oil is pitch black, it's more than likely fine. Only oil analysis can tell you if it's in good shape or bad, unless of course it feels gritty or too thick

JeremyL

now if youre engine never overheated why you would ever have to fully drain the oil? wouldnt just pulling the filter and topping it off be more than adequate?

the only thing as far as i know that can cause oil to lose its ability to lubricate is if it gets too hot ie engine overheating

as we all know you have to change the filter because it traps the dirt and small metal particles that would get back into the engine if you didnt

so if that is true then you really never have to drain the entire contents of the oil?

now about this bypass filter system...whats that stuff all about? 100k one on oil change?

Lei Siew Long

great information. what class of oil would castrol syntec be categorized as? would you also know any retail stores that carry Amsoil, in California that is?

PsiOnara

Is there some sort of list that states what oil is what class?

how do u know what class a specific oil is. is it supposed to be listed on the container?

romeo619romeo

actually for turbo gasoline cars they said only 6 months..and 6 k miles average...which ever 1 comes first..

Lei Siew Long

six months or 6,000 miles seems too extreme for a turbocharged car.

JeremyL

the whole 3m/3k oil change is a farce to begin with, almost every mfgr recommends a 6m/7.5k interval

i wouldnt feel worried going 6m/6k with Royal Purple in my scooby

dattegbol

jeremy i'm pretty sure the only thing in conventional oil that breaks down is the additives thats why it can be recycled.

1FSTMAX

I had a link, but unfortunately my wife and the kids moved into the inlaws for the next 3 months while our new house is being built.

Castrol Syntec is a class III oil and it is without a doubt the worst synthetic oil on the market. Oil analysis on Maxima.org shows numerous samples and Castrol GTX consistantly does MUCH better. Castrol GTX is probably the best dino oil available. Syntec loses it's viscosity before 3k miles.

JeremyL

which is why adding a fresh quart and changing the filter every 5k should be adequate right?

if you get a fresh qt in it should provide enough additives and detergents

1FSTMAX

Yes, adding the extra oil during the filter change is what revitalizes the additive package, but over time it will break down. For turbocharged or supercharged cars, 5-6k is absolutely correct, even with Amsoil. Again on Maxima.org oil analysis shows on supercharged Maximas that oils break down much quicker.

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeremyL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my gf's 97 teg has amsoil in it and my WRX has royal purple, ill see if they stand the test of time, after almost 3k very hard hi boosted miles the RP is still nice and golden and isnt even starting to get dark</TD></TR></TABLE>

i remember a professional saying the oil SHOULD become dark... its a good sign of normal engine wear, with it reacting with the detergants in the oil itself