Vtec92Civic

I have had this setup on my car for a while, and I can't seem to figure out how to go about the coolant pipe issue.

D16z6 Coolant Pipe has 2 nipples and the D16y8 has only 1 nipple. The D16z6 pipe leaks badly, but the y8 doesn't so I used that. Now comes the drama . . . . . there is a line that comes off the head that is to go to the only nipple there is, and there is another coolant line that is suppose to connect to the water pipe, but there is no other nipple so I used a T fitting, but now that I am boosted I noticed that my cars temp likes to rise a lot as if the collant is doing it's job, or as if there isn't enough coolant getting into the block to keep it cool.

Temp. rises about 3/4 of the way up only if you are on the throttle boosting a lot and in that case I usually let off the gas and it drops down some, and I pop my hood and it goes back down all the way to 1/4 of the way where it usually is at.

Headgasket is brand new
Thermostat is brand new

I filled up the radiator with new coolant, and filled up the resivoir as well and the resivoir is empty now. I have not seen a drop of coolant leak out so I know I don't have any leaks, but what could cause my car to heat up like that or eat up coolant so bad?

Vtec92Civic

ttt

Pengo

are you sure your cooling system is completely filled and that you have no air pockets in there?

Vtec92Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pengo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure your cooling system is completely filled and that you have no air pockets in there? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not positive that I don't have air pockets. is there a way to check for that, or to check to make sure the cooling system is completely full?

People keep telling me thermostat, or headgasket, but they are both brand spanking new.

I ran the car all motor before I put the turbo on and it was good, I ran the car with no downpipe on after I got the turbo on and it ran fine, I even ran the car a little while after I got the exhaust put on and it ran good, but now it seems to be heating real fast.

Picture a boost gauge spiking and dropping back down, that's what my temp. needle looks like, It will shoot up real quick from 1/4 of the way to 1/2 or even a little more then that, and then as soon as I let off the gas it drops, and if I pop the hood it drops more. Can coolant heat up and cool down like that within seconds?

I was also told that my mixture could be off, so I was going to drain my cooling system and fill it up with 50/50 pre mixed coolant. Someone said that's what happens when you got a FMIC but that's bull because I had this FMIC on my last turbo setup and never had a cooling or heating issue. Could it be that my radiator is kicking the bucket?

SOHC Gord

small crack in head or head gasket man thats what iam saying and when your going under boost its pushing it out the leaks and causes the temp. to rise and thats probably were your coolant is going. thats just what i think could be wrong try and take your coolent hose from your radiator to your reserve tank the small vaccum like one and put it in a glass of water and rev it a little and see if it blows out any air into the glass of water makeing it bubble. but yet it could still just do it under boost but anyway good luck and if i think of anything else to help u out i will post on it

pip9

i got a y8head on a z6 block...

My automotive teacher bought a brand new themostat for his wifes car and it kept overheating. Turned out the themostat was bad. You can test it by putting it in a pan of water on the stove with a temp gauge and see if it opens at the correct temp.

Vtec92Civic

thanks guys Thermostat is brand new it's days old. I did however try something that cody had me do . . ."burp" the cooling system. I started the car with the rad cap off, and let it idle to normal temp. to release any and all air trapped in the system, and man it really did help. The previous night I was barely able to make it home it heated up so fast and bad, and that was without boosting, and without a load on the motor. I was just cruising at about 40 in 5th gear with barely any throttle according to the vafc maybe 6%

After trying what cody told me to I test drove it. I hit the highway and pulled out infront of this cement truck and punched it. I racked through the gears boosting and watching the needle and it didn't budge. A few miles later when I slowed down it went up, but I think it's because my coolant mixture right now is a little to thin.

We were unable to get the coolant bolt on the back of the block off the other night I guess because the car was warm, and heat expands metal. I want to really drain out the cooling system fully so I can eliminate that off the list of things it could be.

The only things I can think of is:

Radiator (might be the original 12 years old)
Radiator Cap (not sure)
Thermostat (brand new)
Headgasket (fairly new)
Water Pump (not sure how old)

before all if this happened when we were installing the motor in my car the top left corner head bolt took out the threads from the block, so we had to use "Heli Coil" to put new threads in that hole and we were a little afraid to torque it down overly good and snapping the threads again.

This problem began the day that my car spiked to 10psi and moments after that I looked at the temp. needle and that's when it was up, so maybe the headgasket or maybe I should re-check the headbolts again to make sure they are all torqued down?

Is there anyway to check if a headgasket is bad, since I was told if you remove the head you gota replace the headgasket?

Vtec92Civic

Vtec92Civic

up for the nich KrEw

oscarmayer

please tell us you did nto reuse the headgasket. you should not have any issues. you could actually jsut plug off the extra water connection and be fine. There is no difference really with runnign a y8 head on a z6 block. FYI your z6 head flowqs better than the Y8 head for FI. You should have just swapped cams and kept your Z6 head. But you should use the Y8 intake.

Vtec92Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please tell us you did nto reuse the headgasket. you should not have any issues. you could actually jsut plug off the extra water connection and be fine. There is no difference really with runnign a y8 head on a z6 block. FYI your z6 head flowqs better than the Y8 head for FI. You should have just swapped cams and kept your Z6 head. But you should use the Y8 intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have my z6 head :-p

I have urrently in my car right now:

D16y8 Block
D16z6 Head
D16y8 water pipe

that's what I am using. As far as the headgasket goes ofcourse I didn't use the old one. I baught brand new one, slapped it on and ran the car all motor for a while, and then boosted it, and ran into this over heating problem about 2-3 weeks into boost.

pip9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There is no difference really with runnign a y8 head on a z6 block. FYI your z6 head flowqs better than the Y8 head for FI. You should have just swapped cams and kept your Z6 head. But you should use the Y8 intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are u talking to me? b/c he's got the z6 head on a y8 block. I have the y8 head on the z6 block. The reason i did that was b/c my z6 head was fucked up and i had a p&p y8 head laying around. I don't think u can swap the cam ( not cams ) from the z6 to the y8. Even if u could i doubt it would be worth it.

Vtec92Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pip9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are u talking to me? b/c he's got the z6 head on a y8 block. I have the y8 head on the z6 block. The reason i did that was b/c my z6 head was fucked up and i had a p&p y8 head laying around. I don't think u can swap the cam ( not cams ) from the z6 to the y8. Even if u could i doubt it would be worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

:-p

oscarmayer

hehe guys using a z6 or a y8 stuff as far as blocks go is no difference. oil, water pumps are the same. now if you want more oil pressure, use the later 2001+ civic oil filter. it will bump you up about 15psi in pressure. it is also a larger filter so it filters better.

Well the heating issue could be this. Do you have a problem with loosing coolant? are you having to put more fluid into your tank every week? i had a issue with my stock radiator where i was overheating due to flow issues. the stocker coudl not keep up with the surging created by the faster responce under boosting and it would over the overflow this pissing fluid all over my engine. now the worst thing was it was right next to my intake pipe so the turbo was sucking some of that in and causing a heating issue. once i replaced the radiator, no mroe issuses. Also if you got a generic thermostat, that coudl be your issue. they don;t work as well as the stock honda units. i always recommend using only stock honda parts for those kinds of things.

Hopefully one of these things will help. let us know.

GPNY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe guys using a z6 or a y8 stuff as far as blocks go is no difference. oil, water pumps are the same. now if you want more oil pressure, use the later 2001+ civic oil filter. it will bump you up about 15psi in pressure. it is also a larger filter so it filters better.

Well the heating issue could be this. Do you have a problem with loosing coolant? are you having to put more fluid into your tank every week? i had a issue with my stock radiator where i was overheating due to flow issues. the stocker coudl not keep up with the surging created by the faster responce under boosting and it would over the overflow this pissing fluid all over my engine. now the worst thing was it was right next to my intake pipe so the turbo was sucking some of that in and causing a heating issue. once i replaced the radiator, no mroe issuses. Also if you got a generic thermostat, that coudl be your issue. they don;t work as well as the stock honda units. i always recommend using only stock honda parts for those kinds of things.

Hopefully one of these things will help. let us know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually Oscar, oil and water pumps are NOT the same. Oil pump has different bolt pattern, and water pump has a different gear. I have 2 Z6 blocks and a Y8 block that I just rebuilt using OEM water and oil pumps so I am absolutely certain of what I am saying. Please stop spreading misinformation!

With regards to the water pipe, I had the same issue where 1 Z6 block had 2 nipples and the other had 1 nipple. I used the one with one nipple and will also be teeing it if necessary.

Vtec92Civic

update . . . . we tested the temp. sending probe and it tested to be abd, we even checked my wiring harness and that checked out perfect! Replaced the probe, and the thermostat, and it still does the same ****, but could I now have air in my system? Should I try to re-bleed the system with the new probe in and see if it still over heats? I just popped in the probe, and drove and the needle was flying off the handle still.

SOHC Gord

yes re-bleed your system and your gauge mit be bad itself ? possibly i guess anyway if not then your head is warped or bad since u didnt re serfice it when u put it on and/or your headgasket is blown .