Need advice before going to the dyno
05-05-2016, 11:01 AM
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Need advice before going to the dyno
Hi guys,
i need advice on a few things before i go to the dyno and tune my car. Well my car is a 99 civic hatch with a fully built b18c head/block with a gt35r and i have a dogbox on the car too. will run c16. now im running R888 tires with 15x7 enkei wheels and i dont want to run those on the dyno as i know dyno manufacturers dont recommend running semi-slicks on the dyno where they slip, make no squeaking wheel spin noise (causing false hp readings) and they get ruined easily on the knurled roller of the dyno. im thinking of buying some steelies and run some street performance tires and would like recommendations on the wheel and tire size? im currently running 225/50/15 Toyo R888. i think i saw some 15" honda steelies in the salvage yard, but would like to hear some tips before i go ahead and do some wheel/tire shopping. another point i was told by dyno dynamics to run the tire pressure at 50 psi when on the dyno. let me summarize a few questions here:
1- which wheel/street tire size recommended to run on the dyno?
2- when do you expect i will lower the gap on the spark plugs? thinking of going up to 35psi of boost and currently running stock new OEM dist/spark plug wires (running ngk iridium 2668 stock gap 0.031")
3- i'll be monitoring knock sound using headphones and couldnt find a place on the block other than an empty threaded hole at the bottom of the block between cylinder 2 & 3, which is close to the oil pan. block is a JDM block which doesnt come with a knock sensor. i dont want to put the sensor close to the cylinder head as i will hear nothing but valvetrain noise. would you agree the location i used is still good?
4- running a 3" exhaust piping from the turbo to a 3" varex muffler and was wondering if the varex fully open would still be restrictive?
5- running ID1000 and was wondering if i can set my base fpr to 70psi with the vac hose disconnected or thats too much? fuel system consists of a walbro in tank 255HP, 044 inline fuel pump, -6 feed/return, BDL fuel rail, aeromotive fuel filter and aeromotive FPR. i was told i can juice out the those ID's to 100% duty cycle
6- aiming 11.5 afr on 91 pump gas at around 15psi and 12.5 afr on c16 at around 35psi. does those afr's sound good?
7- where do you think my egt's should be at when running full boost? would like to know the range i should consider to be safe egt temp?
more questions to come and thanks for the support in advance everyone
i need advice on a few things before i go to the dyno and tune my car. Well my car is a 99 civic hatch with a fully built b18c head/block with a gt35r and i have a dogbox on the car too. will run c16. now im running R888 tires with 15x7 enkei wheels and i dont want to run those on the dyno as i know dyno manufacturers dont recommend running semi-slicks on the dyno where they slip, make no squeaking wheel spin noise (causing false hp readings) and they get ruined easily on the knurled roller of the dyno. im thinking of buying some steelies and run some street performance tires and would like recommendations on the wheel and tire size? im currently running 225/50/15 Toyo R888. i think i saw some 15" honda steelies in the salvage yard, but would like to hear some tips before i go ahead and do some wheel/tire shopping. another point i was told by dyno dynamics to run the tire pressure at 50 psi when on the dyno. let me summarize a few questions here:
1- which wheel/street tire size recommended to run on the dyno?
2- when do you expect i will lower the gap on the spark plugs? thinking of going up to 35psi of boost and currently running stock new OEM dist/spark plug wires (running ngk iridium 2668 stock gap 0.031")
3- i'll be monitoring knock sound using headphones and couldnt find a place on the block other than an empty threaded hole at the bottom of the block between cylinder 2 & 3, which is close to the oil pan. block is a JDM block which doesnt come with a knock sensor. i dont want to put the sensor close to the cylinder head as i will hear nothing but valvetrain noise. would you agree the location i used is still good?
4- running a 3" exhaust piping from the turbo to a 3" varex muffler and was wondering if the varex fully open would still be restrictive?
5- running ID1000 and was wondering if i can set my base fpr to 70psi with the vac hose disconnected or thats too much? fuel system consists of a walbro in tank 255HP, 044 inline fuel pump, -6 feed/return, BDL fuel rail, aeromotive fuel filter and aeromotive FPR. i was told i can juice out the those ID's to 100% duty cycle
6- aiming 11.5 afr on 91 pump gas at around 15psi and 12.5 afr on c16 at around 35psi. does those afr's sound good?
7- where do you think my egt's should be at when running full boost? would like to know the range i should consider to be safe egt temp?
more questions to come and thanks for the support in advance everyone
05-05-2016, 11:06 AM
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Re: Need advice before going to the dyno
get steelies off a chevy saturn compact, they're 15 and 4x100. I like goodyear eagle RSA on them, but that's my DD tires so i dunno man just trying to add to the conversation.
05-05-2016, 12:28 PM
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Re: Need advice before going to the dyno
Hi guys,
1- which wheel/street tire size recommended to run on the dyno? - Run the tires you have, I used my r888 on the dyno, I know of plenty other people. As long as your car is aligned you will not have an issue with tire wear on the dyno.
2- when do you expect i will lower the gap on the spark plugs? thinking of going up to 35psi of boost and currently running stock new OEM dist/spark plug wires (running ngk iridium 2668 stock gap 0.031") - start at .016-0.018 and if it blows the spark then you can tighten it up.
3- i'll be monitoring knock sound using headphones and couldnt find a place on the block other than an empty threaded hole at the bottom of the block between cylinder 2 & 3, which is close to the oil pan. block is a JDM block which doesnt come with a knock sensor. i dont want to put the sensor close to the cylinder head as i will hear nothing but valvetrain noise. would you agree the location i used is still good? - I would not even worry about checking for knock. If you are using a reputable tuner, you should not have an issue. If you DO hear knock, your tuner is royally F'ing up.. You don't have to hear it knock for it to destroy your motor. I doubt you will be able to listen for it.. Your plugs will tell you everything you need to know that's going on inside your motor
4- running a 3" exhaust piping from the turbo to a 3" varex muffler and was wondering if the varex fully open would still be restrictive? - Should not have any problems at all so long as it flows straight through, not like a flow master muffler.
5- running ID1000 and was wondering if i can set my base fpr to 70psi with the vac hose disconnected or thats too much? fuel system consists of a walbro in tank 255HP, 044 inline fuel pump, -6 feed/return, BDL fuel rail, aeromotive fuel filter and aeromotive FPR. i was told i can juice out the those ID's to 100% duty cycle
6- aiming 11.5 afr on 91 pump gas at around 15psi and 12.5 afr on c16 at around 35psi. does those afr's sound good? - with 91 octane i would target 11.0-11.2
7- where do you think my egt's should be at when running full boost? would like to know the range i should consider to be safe egt temp? - you shouldn't have an issue with hot EGTs if your tuner is running timing in a good area.
more questions to come and thanks for the support in advance everyone
1- which wheel/street tire size recommended to run on the dyno? - Run the tires you have, I used my r888 on the dyno, I know of plenty other people. As long as your car is aligned you will not have an issue with tire wear on the dyno.
2- when do you expect i will lower the gap on the spark plugs? thinking of going up to 35psi of boost and currently running stock new OEM dist/spark plug wires (running ngk iridium 2668 stock gap 0.031") - start at .016-0.018 and if it blows the spark then you can tighten it up.
3- i'll be monitoring knock sound using headphones and couldnt find a place on the block other than an empty threaded hole at the bottom of the block between cylinder 2 & 3, which is close to the oil pan. block is a JDM block which doesnt come with a knock sensor. i dont want to put the sensor close to the cylinder head as i will hear nothing but valvetrain noise. would you agree the location i used is still good? - I would not even worry about checking for knock. If you are using a reputable tuner, you should not have an issue. If you DO hear knock, your tuner is royally F'ing up.. You don't have to hear it knock for it to destroy your motor. I doubt you will be able to listen for it.. Your plugs will tell you everything you need to know that's going on inside your motor
4- running a 3" exhaust piping from the turbo to a 3" varex muffler and was wondering if the varex fully open would still be restrictive? - Should not have any problems at all so long as it flows straight through, not like a flow master muffler.
5- running ID1000 and was wondering if i can set my base fpr to 70psi with the vac hose disconnected or thats too much? fuel system consists of a walbro in tank 255HP, 044 inline fuel pump, -6 feed/return, BDL fuel rail, aeromotive fuel filter and aeromotive FPR. i was told i can juice out the those ID's to 100% duty cycle
6- aiming 11.5 afr on 91 pump gas at around 15psi and 12.5 afr on c16 at around 35psi. does those afr's sound good? - with 91 octane i would target 11.0-11.2
7- where do you think my egt's should be at when running full boost? would like to know the range i should consider to be safe egt temp? - you shouldn't have an issue with hot EGTs if your tuner is running timing in a good area.
more questions to come and thanks for the support in advance everyone
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