sol2nr

ok, i have a jdm b16a w/ I/H/E, no A/C, P/S converted to manual, some other bolt ons, and a Nitrous Express wet system. I have a Golden Eagle fuel rail, Aeromotive FPR, and Walbro 255 pump. I use a 50 wet shot, and just bought a new clutch and flywheel a week ago. I bought the Exedy chromoly flywheel (9.0lbs) and Exedy Organic race clutch. I will also be getting a Quaife LSD. I just got the opportunity to have my engine fully built, block sleeved, pistons, rods, valves, retainers, P&P, etc..., so i will be upping the nitrous to a 100-125shot probably. However, i daily drive like 18,000 miles a year, sometimes in traffic. I will be off the bottle most of the time, especially b/c i autoX and road race mostly, but will be dragging sometimes too. My concern is my brand new UNinstalled Exedy Organic race clutch. Will i burn it up reeealy quickly after repeated N2O usage? Should i keep it OR get a "higher stage" one? What clutch would you guys suggest? as a small step above the Exedy Organic? Will the Exedy Cerametallic be too aggressive for a lot of daily driving?

thanks for any info.



Modified by sol2nr at 3:37 PM 4/1/2004

sol2nr

someone's gotta have an opinion.

XXXRacing

Yes, the exedy organic clutch will not hold that much power. You should get the thick ceremetallic 3 puck clutch. The three puck is very streetable, used to drive our crx 60 miles each way into the city with the clutch with no problems. Brian

sol2nr

thanks for your opinion. how long did it hold up for you? any one else have the thick cerametallic?

whats the difference between the thin and the thick?

Mikey361

honestly why do you want to run that much nitrous? i do mean to rag
on you but that wont hold up long once you get to using it. my younger
brother toasted his 00 si with a 100 shot direct port, he had it tuned at
carboy( i think but im not sure) and still after like 10 -15 runs KABOOM!
now hes got a turbod b20/vtec and hes running low 11's, maybe cut it
back a lil guy especially if you like road racing that much and you drive
it daily. just my opinion guy.

sol2nr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mle_92cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that wont hold up long once you get to using it. my younger
brother toasted his 00 si with a 100 shot direct port, he had it tuned at
carboy( i think but im not sure) and still after like 10 -15 runs KABOOM!
now hes got a turbod b20/vtec and hes running low 11's, maybe cut it
back a lil guy especially if you like road racing that much and you drive
it daily. just my opinion guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off, if i have a FULLY BUILT ENGINE i can run much more than a 125shot. anyone running a 100shot on a stock engine should EXPECT it to blow after a short while, even if you have it tuned.

do you know anything about nitrous or engines? A 125shot direct port wet system tuned by AEM EMS with the fuel system to back it up is nothing for a fully built engine.

back on topic please.

XXXRacing

I was using the thin cermetallic, lasted 20K in the crx. The thick one has alittle more material I believe. It took alot of 7K clutch dumps on slicks at the track. Brian

EG1.8cT68

iTrader: (1)

I was using a thin cerametallic for about 6 months or so with a 75 shot in my 1.8 hatch. It held up great with the exception of the chatter that was a little annoying but after break in it calmed down a good bit. Now I upgraded to Hyper Twin for my turbo setup. EXEDY

sol2nr

did it show a lot of wear after the 6months? i don't want to buy a clutch that's only going to last 6months.

i'm assuming u changed it to upgrade, not b/c it needed to be done, right?

so its daily drivable?

sol2nr

anyone else have an opinion?

Jkan2001

I think you'll definetely want something beefier than an exedy organic race clutch. I honestly doubt even an XTSS will hold up for you.

I'm not sure for a B16 but my 91 SER setup to run a 150 direct port uses a clutch made by a company called clutch specialties. They make a pressure plate that holds XT+ pressure with a HD pedal feel and you can get a 6 puck sprung hub which would probably do the trick. My friend with a turbo SER that is in the 11's has the pp and full face unsprung hub combo so i think a 6 puck sprung hub would hold just fine but still be plenty streetable.

The best part is they're a lot cheaper than ACT/CM since they are relatively uknown but their products are tried and true with the SR20 crowd. If you have the money to cough up get a tilton twin disc, it will probably never fail you. Good thing i can spray a 175-200 shot progressive on my stock bottom end

sol2nr

good info. thanks. definitely looking for more suggestions.

Built B16A

ceramic is the way to go for both bite, and wear

anythign that will grab, will wear...

i had a backyard clutch from a place called centerforce.. ( tech guys at centerforce made a junkyard honda clutch for me ) its a full puck (oe style) PP side, and 8 puck flywheel side..

me.. fully built B16A. 12-1.. race gas.. 100 shot. chirpin 5th on the freeway.. ive used mine for a good 30K and its still in pretty good shape.

long story short. ceramic.

*edit.. PP side is kevlar, and flywheel side is ceramic. *
*edit #2.. lol, dual diaphram PP's are good too*

sol2nr

so exactly which clutch are you recommending?

will they custom make one for anybody?

Built B16A

im not exactly out of the game.. but i don't run the streets like i used to

i dont' know what to recomend you, but if i were looking for a clutch, ide want some good pressure plate tension, and prefferably a softer pp disk side, and a ceramic flywheel side..

ive used 4 puck clutches on both sides, and after 2 weeks, they were un street able.. chatter, and no feathering possible. (clutchmaster stage4)

go for something around stage 3 or 4.. ide look into 6 puck. get dual diaphram.

the cluch i had... was made by centerforce.. a friend of a friend deal.. if i could get another i would.. but its not on the market. hell, my car doens't even run. so its lasting a REAL long time.. hahah

DaveF

i have an opinion.....

we have a crx with a built ls/vtec running an 80 shot / direct port.... the car has run a best of 11.5 @115. on 24.5 inch slicks.. stock differential.

sol2nr

dave,

totally stock tranny? its defintely doable but how long will it last? even an 80shot isn't that huge, i'm going for about double that so stock clutch def. wont hld up. but need the clutch to be streetable for my daily commutes and autoX and road racing. hmmm

EG1.8cT68

iTrader: (1)

My Exedy thin cerametallic showed virtually no wear what so ever even after I went to the track every weekend and launched at 7k several times per session. I beleive for the cash you are diffinetly going to get your moneys worth. How ever the organic disks regardless of manufacturer in my mind are junk, nothing more than a waste of time and money, even the Exedy version. I have had several of these (organic disks from different companies)and after 3-4 months of my abuse they all began to slip.

sol2nr

but how is the pedal feel and daily driving characteristics? thanks for the reply.

ACTman

The Exedy organic will not hold. To step to their three puck would be a mistake IMO because you give up too much driveability and it will still be marginal. The problem is that the Exedy just doesn't have enough clamp load. If you try and hold the power with high friction (like ceramic) you give up driveability (it chatters). A ceramic is more of a race part. Any spring center ceramic puck will chatter way more than I care for. The solid center puck (like ours) will chatter less but it still chatters, and the splines tend to wear out from the torsional vibration. People don't realize that a spring center doesn't make the clutch engage smooth. That's not the purpose of the springs at all.

A post mentioned dual diaphragm. Dual diaphragm design is crude IMO since you can generate just as much spring load with one diaphragm as they do with two, except without the extra friction of the two diaphragms rubbing on eachother every time the clutch is actuated.

In the ACT line, a small step up (as you asked about) would be our HDSS since our pressure plate is quite a bit stronger than the Exedy, but I don't think it will hold the 125 shot. It should hold more or less like the Exedy ceramic except with totally different characteristics. If you go to our XTSS, it should hold fine on the street, but the pedal will be stiff which you won't like in traffic. Maximum dymanic (slipping friction) torque ratings are 243 (HDSS) and 319 (XTSS). All are balanced and SFI certified.

Bottom line; there is always a tradeoff. Choose wisely.

sol2nr

very informative. thank you. thats what i was looking for....a small jump up, not a big one that will sacrifice drivability a lot. i'll definitely consider those.

anyone else have an opinion. the more the merrier.

thanks.

EDIT- deleted my stupid question.


Modified by sol2nr at 2:02 PM 4/6/2004

Built B16A

heh.. you could always get 2, and waste hours a labor changing for big events..

but like ACT dude said.. its a trade off.. you want a killer clutch it wont be street-able... if you want a street clutch, it won't be full race..

its a trade off.. just go for the middle.. ide say a 6 puck stage 2-3 depending on the company (clutchmasters has like stage 5 or some horseshit, while others have max 3)