CarAudioPro

Been thinking about doing something like that (B20 Non-Vtec Turbo). I cant really find anyone who has done it, maybe I wasnt looking hard enough. Or am I mising something that everyone else knows and I dont about turboing a B20? Is it a no no?

Any info links wouold be great.

Probably going into a 2000 civic sedan.

MR.johnson

google turbo b20. its been done 7-8 million times.

CarAudioPro

I guess I wasnt lookin at google, I was hoping honda-tech would have some good write ups. Hopes and dreams man.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Go into the LST forum. B20 is the same thing with larger bore basically. All thwe information you could ever ask for on a non-vtec setup in that thread.

Link
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/lst-ls-t-turbo-b18a-b18b-setups-1323059/

Westrock2000

Heres what I always wondered. Why didn't more people have turbo B20's in CRV's? That's one of my guilty pleasure desires, is to get a 1st gen manual and turbo it out.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Its been done. I want to boost a 1st gen but not with a b20, block has a different siamesed cylinder liners compared to every other b series, not to mention the thinnest sleeves

I'd either sleeve the b20 or sell it to some all motor guy and go my favorite route, ls/vtec.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

b20 sleeves arent any thinner than b18 sleeves. Thats a myth they are same thickness just designed differently and no aluminum between the cylidners its all steel sleeve. They hold up quite well when tuned properly up to thew 400hp range after that goonight sleeves unless CSS but the cost of that you might as well sleeve the damn thing.

I always wanted a first gen CRV with a 5 speed and boost it on stock motor with a cheap setup ebay **** except the wastegate and turbo but a ebay log with ebay bov and sre piping weould be awesome. maintain all factory equipment and have a quick little 300hp crv would be **** for a daily driver with ice cold air

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The steel liner is thinner iircn the aluminum casting is the same thickness. I measured my old b20 core vs my other motors and mine were thin

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

But yea a 300hp300tw crv would be dumb fun, especially the awd version.. or be a badass and convert it to rwd utilizing the stock components. That would throw people off.. and I would totally slam it and slide it just because I could lol

BLU CIVIC

yungkhmer

Search for the b20 thread.

seelback

b20 stock bottom end
g.e. block guard properly installed
arp head studs
oem honda water pump and oil pump
ferrea valvetrain
ems
good name reliable bolt ons and good name reliable turbo components

if you do your research and dont cut any corners you can boost a stock b20 motor with no problems.

Snailor Built

If you do research and dont cut corners, you can boost anything at all. All about the tune, A car that runs with us at the shop has a b20vtec, peakboost topmount 60-1 and it goes to 9k rod/piston and built head and its been that way for 2 years.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

And converting the awd 5spd crv to rwd is basically as simple as pulling the front axles and seals and pressing in a blockoff fitting into the axle holes.. the trans diff has two ring gears, one from the pinion off the motor and the other drives the rear driveshaft, since it's full time awd the power distribution is constant to the rear diff.

I don't recall if the crv has an open or lsd rear diff, I know our awd element has an oem clutch type... it might be worth seeing if it could be adapted to the crv diff case but given the k series spins the wrong way I'm not sure

I would probably just weld the rear diff it is an open type.. then go confuse people at local drift events. Just like the element in FormulaD that has an FR C32 from an nsx mounted FR in the engine bay, twin turbo, etc. It still blows my mind to watch an element drift lol.

v8eatrr

Super easy to do

And I made 220whp due to an exhuast leak before the turbo
Make sure to use lock washers

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I use lock washers like the nordlocks. I also safety wire every bolt/nut from the turbine housing/manifold nut s and exhaust manifold nuts and basically any other nut/bolt that could cause serious issues if vibrated loose

yungkhmer

after watching this a few years ago i picked up a b20z, been running the same block for years. went from b20vtec to built ls head/b20z block boosted to b20vtec turbo. Im guessing my street tunes were spot on, granted i didnt take pass 8,200 rpms, no knocks no nothing. block is STILL running. Im gonna try and shoot for 325+ whp at the end of summer.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

was this all on a stock b20 bottom end? no rod bolts?

yungkhmer

stock sleeves, stock rod bolts. i got the motor from a friends dad, motor only had 40xxx miles. probably has 70xxx now. OH i did put in itr oil & water pump. other than that, completely stock.

98sierra

in the process of building a 650hp b20 drag car right now

yungkhmer

make a build thread.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

When will people know, all b series pumps share the same part number, regardless of what model car that they were for, so there's nothing about an itr pump that makes it special, it's the same pump used on every b series motor.

Same for the pumps except there is a 19t pump and a 22t pump

JDMAF

side note... the crv rear end a clutch pack... however there is a guy on here that has figured out how to gut the whole thing and throw a D series LSD in one...

Jimmynitro

There's a crv build on ht 3xx whp 3xx tq. Turbo. Fir u guys talking bout the crv. Incase u aint see it. Think its like. Crv of death. Sweet ride. As far as b20 blocks. Tune it correct. I cracked a sleeve on a nitrous b20, N I also have a buddy running b20-v stock block making 400+ turbo. He had it for few years now.

Jimmynitro

Talk to epic tuning the did awd ef hatch. D series. And 2 eg awd b series. A coupe n hatch. They have experience w the rear ends n making them lock