Mario.

Friends car starts, runs crappy, the idle is really junky... maybe we are missing something really obvious here, but what can we do to fix this? Also, does anyone have any links or search terms to use for beginning to street tune a turbo car with the AFC. The dyno is two hours away and car needs to be able to drive to the dyno.

m R g S r

A lot of people have steered away from the AFC because of all the FREE engine managment programs! I suggest you sell the afc, postpone the dyno appointment and get something like uberdata.
But good luck.

Mario.

My friend has neither the time nor experience to street tune Uberdata to drive it to the dyno. His plans are to street tune the AFC, dyno tune the AFC, then drive to the dyno with chipped ECU and laptop for Uberdata. Not to mention that Uberdata is not free since you need a laptop, chipped ECU, and EEPROM burner at the very minimum.

I appreciate the suggestion.

nonvtecD

Have someone burn you an Uberdata basemap for $15. $15 is almost free.

Mario.

Thanks, but right now we have the AFC to work with and I've heard a lot of success stories with the AFC so that's what we got, and that's what we are gonna try with.

So, if anyone can actually help with the problem, that'd be great.

boostincoupe

For the last time, there is almost nothing "free" about uberdata or any other standalone DIY setup for OBD-II peeps like me.

You have to buy the ECU, conversion harness, chipping supplies, burner, wideband (or dyno time), laptop (or use desktop), etc. etc.

I have the opportunity to pick up a mint VAFC for 100 bucks, and some DSM 450's for 40 bucks. There, set and done. Maybe get a few dyno pulls for good measure, but that's still not bad in my opinion.

g0ldywang

you've just gotta lean the hell out of it at idle...especially if you are running an aftermarket fuel pump too. My buddy has afc and 440's on his sohc turbo setup and the car would barely idle until we leaned it way out. Only for the idle though, be careful leaning it out anywhere else depending on if you have a proper a/f measurment device.

G"UNIT

what is your afc settings on? what is your sensor type on? when i had the vafc hax in my turbo car i loved it. work great...

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the last time, there is almost nothing "free" about uberdata or any other standalone DIY setup for OBD-II peeps like me.

You have to buy the ECU, conversion harness, chipping supplies, burner, wideband (or dyno time), laptop (or use desktop), etc. etc.

I have the opportunity to pick up a mint VAFC for 100 bucks, and some DSM 450's for 40 bucks. There, set and done. Maybe get a few dyno pulls for good measure, but that's still not bad in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should still check out uberdata man. I'm running uberdata untuned right now on my obd2 coupe and my friend who was running the hack said that my car feels way smoother than his ever was. Plus with the hack you have all that bad timing advance. I probably only spent around $240 on all my stuff for uberdata. A wideband of coarse is extra, but you really need one of those to tune the vafc as well.

krazn

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D15B7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have someone burn you an Uberdata basemap for $15. $15 is almost free.</TD></TR></TABLE>


lol. for some reason i laughed out loud in my office cause of that. u dont know how many times i got "almost" free stuff

Mario.

Finally, some guys are getting what I am asking.

I personally will be running Uberdata, but listen up dudes... for now, today, we have a V-AFC to work with.

So please, he will be going to Uberdata... but to get his car drivable, we need to configure the AFC. Do people not understand this or something?

G"UNIT

whats the settings on.. i need to know what is going on in the vafc to tell you what it is.. get HONDATA when he gets the money..

SOHC_MShue

he is getting uberdata. Why would he need to get hondata?

Mario.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the settings on.. i need to know what is going on in the vafc to tell you what it is.. get HONDATA when he gets the money..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gonna get the setting information from him. I believe the sensors are at 6 | 6 for our cars ... I am gonna get the actual setting numbers from him once I can get a hold of him.

Thanks for the help guys.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he is getting uberdata. Why would he need to get hondata?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like HONDATA!! i am not going to turn this into a hondata vs uberdata thread.. you like uberdata thats you...

If your going to get it tuned at a dyno and just want to drive it there put it at -34 all the way across. it will run right and idle right so you can get to the dyno. thats what i started mine off at and it ran fine. then i set everything else myself.. me and a friend just street tuned it. The afc hack will do good for him if he is having it tuned..

USDM 4G VTEC

back on topic

i have the Hack for 3 mths now and runs great for what it is and gives me a good 290-310 miles per tank on my 11 galon tank ( and i floor it a lot)

i got the VAFC on -37% from 1k-1.5k

2k-3.5k i have it on -36%

4k-6.5k i have it on -35%

and 7k+ i have it on -33%

runs great and idles perfect at 750 rpms +/- 5 rpms

-Trinitron-

Make sure the sensor type is on PRESSURE. The incorrect sensor type will cause wierd idle and misfire in the mid to high rpm. Try adding and removing fuel to correct the idle.

Mario.

Here is his reply:

"I know I have the vafc set for what it's supposed to be, in: 6 out: 6, 4 cyl arrow pointing up, etc. I have that set for exactly what the diagram floating around says.

I leaned the injectors to -40% across the board. The car will idle and I can drive it, but it backfires once I start getting to 0% vaccuum and entering boost (or also it backfires when I rapidly open up the throttle).

I am now starting to think the problem lies elsewhere (not injectors, not afc) because out of sheer frustration I put in the stock injectors, set everything back to stock as far as the fuel increments and it is still sputtering when I give it gas (now this is totally stock, not trying to boost either, just idle and give some gas while not moving and it still is backfiring slightly). This is why I'm thinking it's not the injectors, nor the afc but something else. No codes from the ecu, but still maybe the o2 sensor could be bad? Let me know what you think."

The only flaw I found is the location of the throttle... it is supposed to be at an angle, not straight up I believe.

Thoughts appreciated.

EJ1 wilcox

This link explains the hack and approximately where your AFC settings should be with 450 cc DSMs...

http://www.geocities.com/therm....html

::edit:: I'm not sure if that link is working properly...

Poop111444

I had the hack....and your backfire... you mean a Farty Pop? At 3K if i let off the throttle car would blow a flame and pop. I call it the Farty pop. It was because the hack runs it very very rich, unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust.

Mario.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Poop111444 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the hack....and your backfire... you mean a Farty Pop? At 3K if i let off the throttle car would blow a flame and pop. I call it the Farty pop. It was because the hack runs it very very rich, unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could be... but considering his turbo spools at 3,000 RPM's he's not revving it at all basically. Touching the throttle gives a backfire.

Like he said, he threw in stock injectors and put the AFC back to 0%... and it still has this fugly backfire.

mekkis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the last time, there is almost nothing "free" about uberdata or any other standalone DIY setup for OBD-II peeps like me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So it costs an extra $25 to make an OBD2-1 conversion harness... boo hoo. Still less than a new AFC.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario BA4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally will be running Uberdata, but listen up dudes... for now, today, we have a V-AFC to work with.

So please, he will be going to Uberdata... but to get his car drivable, we need to configure the AFC. Do people not understand this or something? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then read the definitive writeup, all others are junk : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I like HONDATA!! i am not going to turn this into a hondata vs uberdata thread.. you like uberdata thats you...</TD></TR></TABLE>

We may have butted heads before, but, bro, that is a class-act answer. You like Hondata, and you let other ppl like what they like.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekkis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So it costs an extra $25 to make an OBD2-1 conversion harness... boo hoo. Still less than a new AFC.

Then read the definitive writeup, all others are junk : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443

We may have butted heads before, but, bro, that is a class-act answer. You like Hondata, and you let other ppl like what they like. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You forgot the P28 ecu and the fact that not all of us can make conv. harnesses, so we pay for them. 80 bucks alone + the 100 for the p28 = more than the cost of a used AFC, but with Uberdata I still need a chip burner, chipping supplies, etc. So, once again, for me, it's cheaper to go OBD-II Hack.

ash.zero

what car is this? also, do you have fmu installed?

sounds like you're giving way too much fuel as the boost spools. my stock injectors were 240cc's. around 3000 rpm, mine's set to like...-42 in narrow throttle. try leaning it out. but when you hear a hint of knocking, back off and don't limit the map voltage so much.

also, was the afc installed along with the turbo? if so, double check the wiring. good luck.

Mario.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ash.zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what car is this? also, do you have fmu installed?

sounds like you're giving way too much fuel as the boost spools. my stock injectors were 240cc's. around 3000 rpm, mine's set to like...-42 in narrow throttle. try leaning it out. but when you hear a hint of knocking, back off and don't limit the map voltage so much.

also, was the afc installed along with the turbo? if so, double check the wiring. good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a 1991 OBD-1 Prelude Si. No FMU installed.

The AFC was installed with injectors.

UPDATE:

I told him to check his plug wires:

"I am racking my brain here and it hurts. So I went outside, put the settings in, turned it over and took it around the block and it is still sputtering. So....I decided to check the plugs. I got them all out and #1,2&4 were all coated with carbon. #3 was almost brand new clean...no carbon at all. So this is a problem. I'm praying just a bad wire because they are pretty cheap. So, I am going to run over to my friends house, grab his extra set of magnacore wires and hook those up."