schwett

ok, can anyone think of a reason why it would be a bad idea to tap the fuel rail "cover plate" and install a fuel pressure gauge sender onto it? the tapped hole would align with one of the two bores in the rail already, or i might possibly bore out a large hole on the end i order to allow the fitting on the sender to screw in further. any reason not to do that? i don't see any fancy pulse dampener in there anywhere.





the cap is aluminum, 7/32" thick.

and please, nobody tell me to put it on the fuel filter! i could do that, but i think this may be a better way for my application. tia!

Holeshot

I've positioned the guage there before, as long as the sender isn't any larger than 1/8" diameter it will be plenty thick enough to tap.

schwett

yeah, the fitting on the gauge is 1/8" npt. it's relatively heavy though, a lot heavier than the little b&m gauge. would it be better to run a short length of fuel line from the cap to the sender and mount it more securely with a clamp? i'm a little worried that all the vibration will break the fitting off or something.

Xerxes

I don't know how high of a quality your gauge is, but another thing to think about is the gauge's reliability itself. I've heard of MANY instances where a b&m pressure gauge mounted on the engine itself broke from vibration and basically got stuck at a certain pressure (possibly max, i can't remember)

-Xerxes

schwett

i'll be attaching a sender rather than a gauge, but the sender is the autometer 1/2 sweep cheapie one. that's one reason i don't want to stick it on the filter - removing it would require a days work. maybe the safest thing is to tap the cap, but run a short line to the sender where i have it currently mounted (nice and secure and insulated from vibration).

schwett

here it is :





the aluminum tapped pretty easily, but it seems like it wasn't the tightest seal unless i screwed the nipple wayyyyyyyyyyy in. it got damn tight in the end, with some teflon seal, but then i had to grind off the other half of the nipple sticking through the plate.

the sender's going on the down side - it definitely won't fit on the up side. depending on the fit once i put it back in the car, i may need to rotate the t a bit or possibly switch it so that it points out and down rather than up and down.

in either case, this is a much better way to do it than what i did originally, which was cutting the feed line in half and teeing it off. it's also a LOT easier than removing the blower. that end cap comes up with two fairly easy to get to 10mm bolts (even with jrsc ) and then you can do the rest out of the car!