sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

Okay so here's what I've got so far:
GSR block out of a 99 GSR, ~70k miles on it, completely bare, not a single thing attached.

Things planned (things needing suggestions)-

1. 84mm GE HD sleeved b18c1
2. CP pistons 9.0:1 with Eagle H-Beam rods http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CP-Pi...Q5fAccessories
3. ACL race bearings
4. GSR crank
5. GSR head
6. Skunk2 valvetrain
7. ITR cams
8. ARP Head studs
9. ITR Mani
10. AEM High Volume Fuel Rail
11. AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator

Now questions:

1. Should I go with 83, 84, or 85mm sleeves?
2. 9.0:1 CR or 9.7:1? How much of a difference (power AND safety-wise) is there?
3. Is the GSR crank acceptible or should I go for an aftermarket lighter one?
4. Same with the ITR cams, should I go ITR GSR or aftermarket?
5. I've read the ITR mani is good, any other suggestions?


Let me know what you think so far..Need to start tearing into what turbo and researching that while tweaking some more stuff on here probably. Thanks guys!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Your sleeve size choice should be based upon the availability of head gaskets, and other equipment. you won't gain much torque between the 3 choices, since you're staying with the stock stroke. Stay either 81, 81.5 or 84mm. If going 84mm, your head gasket choices will be easier to come by, and with the LS crank, you'll become a true 2.0 litre as opposed to 1.88-1.9. If you decide on the LS Crank or B20 crank, match the same rod to the crank. (LS crank=LS rod. GS-R Crank = GS-R Rod)

There is no reason to go to anything "lighter" ,OEM Crank will do fine.

An ITR Intake manifold will not bolt up to the GS-R head. You'll need either a Skunk2, Blox or Edlebrock if you plan to change intake manifolds.

ITR cams are fine. Depending upon the turbocharger you decide (in essence deciding if you want 500whp on 93octane or using a type of race gas... E85 is not race gas) ITR or A Skunk2 Pro1 will be more than fine.

As for compression, anything above 9.0:1 is ideal. but remember , think of the fuel you plan to use to get to these hp numbers (outside of E85, please for better referencing).
I personally like 9.7:1 for the better off-boost acceleration and need for less boost pressure to get better results, but that also depends upon the competency of the tuner, the fuels in your area, and what you're trying to do with the car. In either case, do not go below 9.0:1. You're not a DSM or a Subaru, don't treat it like one.

Turbo choice is an entirely different matter. Look to the FAQs to start on that search. There are some questions you need to ask yourself before you even begin to ask on this forum. SERIOUSLY.

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

This car will be my dd, and I'll be running 93 octane..I do have availibility to e85 and I DO know that it is not race gas, but due to MORE availability I'll be running 93 octane.

And with turbo-choice, I haven't began FULLY searching yet, as I need to get the motor build under way first, but I'll definately be doing my research to its highest before asking. Thanks!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Lastly. I notice you're in Illinois. Have you already addressed how you're going to get around the emissions ***** that you have to deal with come registration time? 500whp on 93 octane setups aren't that easy to refit back to stock just so you can try and fool the emissions brigade. Just a thought as you plan your strategy.

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

hell, i've had my 97 civic for 3 years..and you are supposed to get tested every 2 years, and i haven't received my notification and i checked to see if one was scheduled and it hasn't been..i honestly didn't know about emissions in Illinois, but nobody in my family has ever had to do an emissions test and everyones car here is 10+ years old..

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

I just got off the phone with my dad, and he said that our county isn't included in the emissions testing, so I am fine with the emissions part, sorry if I came off rude or anything, I just went on a mad research spree after you said that XD

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No problem. It is county regulated. Cook county requires it, but most others don't

DA TeG 90

1. I would go with 83MM sleeves as that leaves room for error.

2. 9:0:1

3. GSR crank is fine, but if you can pick up an LS crank I would go with that one as you will become a 2.0.

4. ITR cams will get you to 500whp no problem. How ever with Skunk2 cams (tuner 1, tuner2 or pro 1) you will make 500whp+ at lower boost.

5. ITR is good but Skunk2 or Eddlebrock are also good choices.

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

To the Shodan- Question about rods for the LS crank..

That set I posted with the original post with the CP/Eagle H-beams...the size WILL be different due to a different stroke length correct?

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

1. Is there alot available for 83mm bore? TheShodan was saying that there are more options available with the 84mm..

2. Reasons for 9.0 as opposed to 9.7?

3. I'm going to try for the LS crank, but if I have to stick with a GSR one, then so be it.

4. Are those 3 cams you listed (tuner 1, 2, and pro 1) in order of lowest to highest performance? And would more aggressive cams be harmful or harder to take care of?

5. It was stated that the ITR won't bolt up to the GSR head, so it looks like aftermarket it is!

Thanks!

madblkscientist

1. 84mm is more common for head gaskets pistons rings.
2. 9.0 will be more sluggish durring acceleration vs 9.7, when u drop the compression it will feel a bit slower
3. get the ls there is a difference

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

with the 9.7:1 CR, is there more of a chance of problems ahead though?

Schister66

If this was my personal setup, i would go with an 84mm bore (for ease of finding a headgasket), a 9.7:1 compression (because i love my 9.8:1's off-boost response), and i would definitely include the LS crank for the added torque it can provide.

I'm not sure if your goal of 500whp will be achievable on 93 octane pump gas alone, but for a street car, that's pretty unusable anyway. I would much rather have a more responsive car all around rather than hitting some trivial power number. If you want my suggestion for a turbo, look into the Borg Warner S258 .70ar. It will make the power you want and is AWESOME on the street. I use a slightly smaller S256 .70ar on my DD and absolutely love it

blackeg

ive been using the same oem ls crank in my motors for a few years now. its currently in a 84mm benson sleeved gsr block. my compression is a little over 9:1, if i did it again i would go closer to 10:1, but definately keep using an ls crank.


itr cams work very well. i have mine with a victor x intake manifold.


500whp is real hard to use on the street, especially without maybe a boost by gear option, some good tires and flat, long, straight highways. id venture to say you will wind up running somewhere in the upper 300hp range on the street and the 500hp at the track

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

that is correct. different crank = different stroke = different length rod

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. not unless your tuner is not very good at all, and you have limited engine management (like some sort of uberdata or s-afc)

Many of us here are built at 10.0:1 with 93 octane. but we also made sure tuning was of the utmost.

madblkscientist

if 500hp is the max and i mean max no going higher then talk to a tuner and get together and ask him what is the highest cr u can run safely on 93 and build ur rig towards that

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

With that turbo, and the 9.7:1, and the LS crank, on 93 octane, what power approximately WOULD I be looking at?

The sound of 500 just sounds amazing to me, but I suppose you and blackeg are correct, it would be hard to keep that power down to the road.

Do you think 450whp is achieveable?

I want the max I can get, as there are a lot of S*** talkers around here that need to be beat

madblkscientist

i would first build a strong motor with the usuall suspects (forged internals)for safety and insurance while staying within budget to buy a decent manifold and turbo wastegate

9:7-1(better for te street)
if u can go 84(easier to source parts)
if u can ls crank and ls forged rods(more tq)
sk2 manifold(optional)

then get it tuned to see what it puts down and if u want more u can either use higher oct gas+raise the boost, or put a bigger turbo+higher oct gas

meth/water inj
nos

point is there are options

what cars are u going tobe racing

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

Yes, thats exactly what I'm doing is exploring options, on schedule right now is to buy some 9.7:1 CP pistons, eagle LS rods, LS crank, and then I'm sending the block to Golden Eagle for some 84mm HD sleeves then the sk2 mani

Then GSR head, Sk2 cams, sk2 valvetrain

Turbo is still up in the air, but I've got time for that.

There are a lot of srts around here along with some stock stis, talons (easy), gtis, kids with bolt-ons on their hondas (they talk the most unfortunately) and some camaros.

madblkscientist

i cant speak on turbos ive only eplored greddy 16-18g-20g,garrett t25-t3t4-fp3076

but it seems like every1 here like the t3t4 and borgs

there r 2 many 2 choose from and almost imposible 2 compare

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I want to find one with a decent early spool, but that will put out the power i need with room to improve, but that will carry me all the way to redline, so reasearch research research it is

LS AzZkIkr

Would a oem style intake (skunk2, AEBS, Blox) make 500+? I am wondering the same thing?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes, it can. The difference between that and the Victor X is not whether or not it can "make" the power, its when the that power range is best used. For Drag race and higher end applications with larger turbos, the Victor X and its design is best. For more midrange torque and usable powerband (which is in the lower rpm range) the Skunk2 is the better choice.

sjp00422

iTrader: (2)

Would that still allow for the power to be carried INTO the higher rpms?