96 honda accord ex f22b1 full build and turbo
 

Hey guys I'm a new user To this sight, but have bin going on it for months. Anyways I have a 96 honda accord ex with a F22B1. I'm planning on turboing the engine and full rebuiling it. ive never don a full rebuild but I am very confident and have done a shit ton of research. So I want to post my build to get some more ideas and some solid answers. First off I don't want no one to tell me that this is a dumb idea or I should just get a H series. this is my first build and I chose this motor for a handfull of reasons. Anyways here's my thoughts..
I want to use
-Remanufactued stock crank(still debating)
-Wiseco pistons: dish of -10, comp hight 1.208"
-Bore out block to 85.5mm (stock sleeves)
-Eagle: 141.5mm H beam rods
-Not sure on bearings (want to know what are good oil clearances for my set up)
-Arp head studs
-Oem headgasket(still debating)
-H23 intake manifold (fully ported and polished)
-70mm TB
-850cc injectors
-High flow rail and filter(stock fuel lines)
-255Mlh fuel pump
-Stage 3 map sensor
-EGR delete, PS delete, AC delete, brake booster delete, ABS delete, EVAP delete, IACV delete, and any other anti-racecar sensors.
-Port and polish head(doing myself, I have a head to practice on too)
-ACT stage 3 or 4, 6 pug disk with 11lb or so flywheel.
-NGK iradium spark pulgs
-10.5mm spark plug wiers
-Msd external blaster coil
-10 row oil Cooler
-Port out oil pump( I heard you can get a little more flow)
-high flow Water pump(if possible)
-Turbo not a cheap one eather(don't know what size to get was thinking t3/t4)
-Hasport engine monts
-Keeping tanny stock( getting lsd down the road, unless this car has it already)
-Stage 1.2 bisimoto camshaft
-I don't know about valves (new oem ones, or upgraded ones worth it?)
-thinking about crank pully(I heard the stock one works a lot better not sure tho)
-P28 ecu (don't know what chips to get but I think going to need some)
-S300 hondata(want your guys opinion on that)
-Straight piped, no cat no muffler or nothing( unless there is a good muffler that doesn't sound like a piece of rice lol)
-20917 moroso oil pan(said H series but I'm pretty sure they are the same, unless no need to change)
-should I go with oem gaskets?( heard they are the best)
If I missed anything pls ask, I appreciate anyone who helps me. In the list I kind of asked the questions and would love some good solid answers. Here is a screeshot of my compression calculater to answer CR and piston to deck hight ( I want to make sure I'm not hitting my valves)
Sorry its a lot to read but I would really appreciate and answers or opions on what to do.

Tags: turbo, accord, honda, forced induction, f22b1, f22b2, f22, f23, engine rebuild, accord questions.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...05c9ed961d.png

Re: 96 honda accord ex f22b1 full build and turbo
 

According to your compression calculator, you're going to have problems with your build. Shows your pistons will be over your deck by 0.017..

Re: 96 honda accord ex f22b1 full build and turbo
 

Moved to the FI section from the Machining Section. You might find more information here since you are going Turbo.

The other section is more in line with machine shop work (re-sleeving, valve guide replacement etc).

Re: 96 honda accord ex f22b1 full build and turbo
 

Ok, do you know what's a good clearance. I'm pretty sure 0.007 is stock.

Re: 96 honda accord ex f22b1 full build and turbo
 

What kind of power are you looking for? What are you goals and intended purpose for the car? What fuel will you be running?

Couple things to note relevant to your list:
-Stock F22 transmission sucks and it's really going to hold you back unless you're wanting to build a 200mph top speed queen.

-Figure out your power goals and then buy your clutch. Don't buy too much clutch...just because it's a puck doesn't mean it's good for you or needed. Most of the time you can get away with a full face disc and still have nice driveability. Pucks wear out faster anyway.

-Skip the MSD setup. Just get good plugs and wires. Healthy stock ignition setup will do 600hp+.

-You're better off using a set of H22 rods and 4G63 stroker pistons. Keeps same displacement and engine characteristics but has a more favorable rod/stroke ratio and depending on the piston you buy you can lower your reciprocating mass a bit. Both of those things mean a generally less stressed bottom end all around.

-Honestly you want to keep as much of the stock sleeve material that you can so only bore if you have to. If you can run a stock bore piston and hone to fit...you'll be better off and have a stronger engine. If you're wanting 400-500whp, consider sending the block off to get the CSS treatment. Stock sleeves will only hold about 400whp reliably by themselves.

-Oil cooler not necessary unless you plan on doing road courses with the car. Put that money towards a beefier cooling system. Dual core full length rad, silicone hoses, good cap, etc.

-On a similar note, deleting the balance shafts will net HUGE reductions in oil temperatures anyway. Those things spin at 2x engine RPM at any given time...they cook oil. I have seen 30F oil temperature drops just from removing the belt.

-H23 intake manifold won't fit the F22Bx heads, Only F22Ax heads. Your only options are F23 intake manifold swap which is very common or I believe there are adapters out there to run a K series intake manifold. There's a lot of work involved with the K series manifold swap.

-If you want Hasport mounts because they're shiny, cool. FYI, Innovative makes cheaper mounts that work just as well.

-You don't need an aftermarket oil pan. You can use the stock pan. Alternatively you can use an F23 pan AND pickup if you want about 1 quart greater oil capacity to help with starvation issues/oil change intervals/overall oil temps. You must match the pickup with the pan you run.

-You never made any mention of brake, tire, or suspension upgrades which will be required for many reasons, safety included, when you add a large amount of power to an old, worn out economy car.

-Swallow this pill now. There's a reason why the F22 is not really modified much anymore. There are better options even though you don't want to hear it. The engine is limited in efficiency because of the single cam and the original economy-conscious design. It will make torque for days but they do not like breathing up high without a lot of flow work and even then a similarly built H will always outperform it.