snowboardgeek1

First, many thanks goes out to my friend David for doing most of the installation part of the turbo kit. He was very meticulous, and the install was CLEAN. Everything fit PERFECTLY. Install took us 6.5 hours. If not for going to Lowes to find some screws for misc. things, we could have finished earlier. Also, thanks goes out to Chris Whitfield @ Whitfield Racing. He did an awesome job on the tuning. If anyone needs a tune, go to Chris.

Anyhow, here's my setup:

95 Integra RS B18B w/ 166K miles!!!!
Greddy TD05-18G turbo
Spearco FMIC
RC 310cc Injectors
HKS SSQV BOV
Tuned w/ Crome by Chris Whitfield http://www.whitfieldracing.com
Boosting at stock wastegate, only 6.9psi!!!
Manual boost controller
K&N filter
Golden Eagle Vac manifold
2.5" Stainless steel downpipe
2.5" Carsound high flow cat w/ flex pipe
2.25" DC sports exhaust - damn bottleneck
GSR oil pan
Stainless steel oil lines
Greddy sandwich adaptor
VDO boost and oil temp gauges, installed on dual gauge bezel
Blitz dual turbo timer/boost gauge

Got the car tuned yesterday at Whitfield racing in Upland, CA. If anyone wants to get their car tuned, go to Whitfield racing. Cost is only $150/hr for tuning with Crome, but Chris only needed one hour to tune my car. Times may vary but I saw a B20B w/ a T3/T4 getting tuned by Chris, and it only took Chris one hour to tune as well. His rates are very cheap compared to other tuners because it doesnt take long to hook up the car to the dyno, since he uses a Dynojet vs. a Dynapack. With a Dynojet, you also get WHP vs HP at the crank.

We did 5 or 6 runs total. First run was with his basemap, and his basemap was close to being perfect. For the first run, I got 187whp. For the final 4-5 runs, I got 196-197whp consistently, and torque peaking at 187 lbft. At the crank, taking into account a 15% loss, I'm around 226 hp. Not too bad with a Greddy Turbo kit, boosting at only 6.9psi. Chris said I could have been at 215whp at 8-8.5 psi but my goal was only 200whp, and I reached that quite easily, with boosting at such low levels. Even he was surprised at the fat torque curve and how strong my engine was with 166K miles. The car does not smoke and no oil leaks anywhere. My A/F ratio was at 12 consistently.

This is my first time owning a turbo car, and the experience of installing it, boosting and hearing that BOV going off for the first time, has been priceless. I'm content with my setup as far as power is concerned. Reliability is a huge factor for me, so I think with the power I'm pushing, the engine should last a long time. I completed my suspension a few months ago, so I'm done in that department. Next up is a paint job and replacing some of the speakers. Other than that, the car is pretty much complete!


Here's some pics of the install and with the car strapped to the dyno. Also, some pics of the dyno sheet that I have scanned.










Modified by snowboardgeek1 at 1:58 PM 1/15/2007

93supercoupe

looks like a clean fun setup.

Just adding some pwer.

Nawlinsv6

Pretty clean setup. Your IC looks sick.

snowboardgeek1

Thanks!

3rdgenLS

on what kind of clutch?
for the numbers

snowboardgeek1

Exedy stock clutch. I'll replace it when it goes out. I just had it installed 30K miles ago, and when I replaced my rear main seal, the clutch appeared to be in new condition.

3rdgenLS

i think i'll be going to whitfield on my next tuning. you got a good deal paying just for an hour of tuning.

1turbodc2

iTrader: (1)

looks great Eric!!! now keep that front plate off!!

lol enjoy it man u deserive it!

Smokinsax

Honda + boost = fun

stewie8apie

nice and clean

snowboardgeek1

Thanks everyone. All that hard work definitely paid off.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

Great job... welcome to the dark side..
yeah for 166k LS motor it seems to be holding up well.

Take good care of her, don't get boost greedy & the motor should last you another 30-40k....
when it goes... rebuild.. lol

snowboardgeek1

I'm expecting for the engine to last another 100K...seriously lol

VspecSiR

I have the same turbo kit, and for the exact same reasons as you. I'm not looking to push for big power either, and reliability is more important especially because this is my daily. I'm surprised this post didn't get bashed by non greddy owners yet, but I probably spoke too soon, good luck to you man

snowboardgeek1

Oh its been bashed. Look in page 1.

komat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowboardgeek1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> His rates are very cheap compared to other tuners because it doesnt take long to hook up the car to the dyno, since he uses a Dynojet vs. a Dynapack. With a Dynojet, you also get WHP vs HP at the crank.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

dynopack are whp too.... also the tuning charge shouldnt start until the car is hooked up and when the guys start tuning

snowboardgeek1

Different tuners do different things. Chuch charges 2 hrs minimum for tuning, which comes out to approx. $300 minimum. Also, Dynapack's usually give out higher hp numbers vs. a Dynojet, same cars/engines.

http://home.earthlink.net/~spc....html

HiProfile

My only question would be why you used a turbo capible of 350-400whp for under 200whp. Even if the dyno read low, there's guys pushing sohc's on the d-series kit (15g) past your dyno numbers, not to meniton spooling much quicker. I understand the 310's limit you to about where you are now, but by the same token, why use that turbo with injectors capible of half what the turbo can do? I would highly suggest getting a ported 15g or 16g, selling the 18g - which will get you halfway started on your rebuild fund (just in case).

snowboardgeek1

Did I ever say I wanted to go to 350-400 whp? Didn't I say I my goal was 200whp, with reliability? I can definitely shoot for higher numbers, but when you have 166K miles on an engine, would you? I highly doubt it.

Why would I want a 15G when I already have a turbo that can flow more, IF, I decide to shoot for higher hp numbers, then I'm set. Why would I sell my 18G, to get even a "ported" 15G? Just so I can spool faster? What, another 2-300rpms faster?

You guys, i'm not trying to be an *** here, but read the first post. If you guys can't understand what the goals were in hand, then don't bother posting.

Spec R

congrats man.

chris tuned my LS turbo there too.

188whp and 187wtq with the same turbo setup as you at 7psi.

I was still rocking the two inch greddy downpipe and my 2.25 NA exhaust though.

i had something like 125k miles too. have fun with it man.

i re-dyno'd elsewhere at hit 200/200 at 8 psi.

I would have made more with a bigger downpipe and exhaust but oh well.

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowboardgeek1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys, i'm not trying to be an *** here, but read the first post. If you guys can't understand what the goals were in hand, then don't bother posting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did read your whole post, saw the 200whp goal, then started typing. A smaller turbo doesn't equate to less reliability. Any argument about IAT's will also go down in flames, as you have an intercooler-overkill as well, as its physically big enough, as well as has much denser internal fins than what many 300whp guys go with. The main problem is the injectors - they're probably at 80% duty cycle. Those will have to be upgraded, and you will need to get it retuned. I'd much rather get bigger injectors to help protect against overboosting than a turbo thats much 'bigger' than the injectors. One good boost spike, and you'll be pinging like hail on a tin roof while the afr's go lean, and possibly pig-rich as you decel if they lock up while at 100%.

And it would be a lot more than 200-300 whp faster spool. A heavily ported big 16g maybe. And by the time you choose to rebuild the motor, you'll probably spring for a turbo rebuild. By then it would have been better to run a used 15g and sell it for a turbo that perfectly suits your goals for your built motor.

My thoughts on running a big turbo but 'saving it for a rainy day' is like running drag radials on a stock car. Sure they'll help *if* you upgrade the motor, but chances are they'll wear out by then, and give you sub-par cornering & wet traction in the mean time.

Its no better than the mis-shifting ricer losing a race, crying "well I'll smoke you when I get NOS!"

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did read your whole post, saw the 200whp goal, then started typing. A smaller turbo doesn't equate to less reliability. Any argument about IAT's will also go down in flames, as you have an intercooler-overkill as well, as its physically big enough, as well as has much denser internal fins than what many 300whp guys go with. The main problem is the injectors - they're probably at 80% duty cycle. Those will have to be upgraded, and you will need to get it retuned. I'd much rather get bigger injectors to help protect against overboosting than a turbo thats much 'bigger' than the injectors.

And it would be a lot more than 200-300 whp faster spool. A heavily ported big 16g maybe. And by the time you choose to rebuild the motor, you'll probably spring for a turbo rebuild. By then it would have been better to run a used 15g and sell it for a turbo that perfectly suits your goals for your built motor.

My thoughts on running a big turbo but 'saving it for a rainy day' is like running drag radials on a stock car. Sure they'll help *if* you upgrade the motor, but chances are they'll wear out by then, and give you sub-par cornering & wet traction in the mean time.

Its no better than the mis-shifting ricer losing a race, crying "well I'll smoke you when I get NOS!"</TD></TR></TABLE>

point taken...
except for that last sentance.... a little harsh for the guy. lol


But honestly i would have to agree with HiProfile.
If all you wanted was 200whp I for sure would of gone with an 15G.
Cost way less, much better spool time, much better feel of a usable powerband & even torque curve. I can almost say for sure that if you just wanted a torquey street car the 15G would of been your best. choice.
Yes that intercooler is overkill now that i think about it.
BUT is not nessary a wear item that would need to be replaced when you build your block.

I think the only reason why anyone one would pick 18G kit over 15G with your goals is just so that you can say you have a 18G (which would get more props) LOL. I could see a boosted dseries kill you all day. but thats just me.
see sig.. I'm not all about laggy turbos tooo. lol


Charlie
still nice though.

raiden571

looks nice and clean. i wish i would have kept a simple setup with my car

snowboardgeek1

As for the duty cycle, they're at 65%. Definitely more power to be obtained if needed.

This turbo was specifically made for the LS. Maybe you guys forgot but I have to deal with CARB issues since I live in CA.

Comparing me to a ricer is funny, considering there's nothing ricer about my setup. Whatever.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Honestly I wouldn't take anything half the people on this site say to heart. Your car is done, its turboed and seems to run perfectly fine. The turbo is suited just fine for your setup. BTW you can't exactly bolt up a 16G to that manifold. They aren't the same bolt pattern. So you would basically be telling the guy to change his whole setup.

But 200 whp gets old after a while, and I bet in a couple months you turn the boost up and get bigger injectors any way. Even if the motor isn't going to be built down the road. Because that is what boost does to people