shawn3168

hi, I'm new to this forum, I've had turbo cars before but were factory turbo with safc's used for tuning. I always had dsm's but i bought a honda around a month ago I knew it had an ebay turbo kit on it no matter how much the previous owner insisted it is not. It definatley is, and i have experience with those garbage turbo's so I knew, I was going to have to change the turbo system piece by piece as things went bad but when I bought it I thought it had a broken axle turned out to be the whole trans was bad but no big deal I bought a new one and put it in (not new but jdm from a place in paterson nj) so now it runs and drives great but here's my question, as the person i bought the car from literally knew nothing about the car. It has dsm 450 injectors it's a d16 with a t3/t4 on 8lbs currently and low compression piston's (supposivly) I want to change the wastegate spring for 12 lbs the 450 injectors should be more then enough to support the boost but i can't figure out how the car was originally tuned to run boost in the first place. In short i have no idea what my car is tuned on its a p28 ecu, d16z6, ebay turbo kit wastegate boost at 8lbs, low comp pistons, dsm injectors. I have researched and there's like 5 different possibility's crome, hondata, chipped, flashed, honestly I don't know any help would be appreciated also it has the check engine light shift light i noticed the other day if that helps at all -thanks shawn

shawn3168

Oh forgot to add, it does not have an o2 sensor, egr system or maf sensor and no check engine light on. I don't know if that help's my old eclipse was like that on stock ecu with a safc and no check light either. I am very mechanically inclined just completely new to Honda.

Kelb

First off, PLEASE use paragraphs, my poor eyes.

There are several things you can do. Do a compression test to find out if you're actually low compression (you inciniuated that he stated he changed internals?).

Telling us you have a t3/t4 on 8lbs does nothing, We need to know measurements of the turbo.

If your parts are in running order, and the car itself is fine, You can take the car to be tuned at a reputable shop. If it were me though and I had no idea what was in my car, I would likely tear it down and rebuild it. You say you're mechanically inclined, start putting some quality parts on your car. I would replace the ebay sh*t with name brand parts, and then go get it tuned by a shop you can trust.

shawn3168

Sorry about the paragraphs. Yes, everything is working as it should now.

So I'll do a comp. test, Where will it read out if it's a low comp set up?

The turbo is as stated an ebay t3/t4 t04e 50 trim I apolagize, I figured all the ebay t3/t4's were the same size, and I have full intentions of replacing the parts for quality parts in due time as things fail surprisingly the turbo has no shaft play at all YET.

I would like to know what it's tuned on because there really isn't anywhere local that does tuning. Also real quick if I have the check engine shift light does that mean I can setup a 2-step or launch control that would be awesome. - again Thanks shawn

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Don't trust anything the old owner told you, obviously he didn't know dick about the car.

IF the motor actually has aftermarket rods/pistons, then you will be able to turn the boost up and re tune it and make more power.

Sounds like it has been chipped and tuned on either crome,ectune or neptune.

The 450 injectors will support up to about 300 whp.

The stock D16 can only handle about 220 whp before it starts snapping rods and such, that is why it's very important to know if the block is actually built or not, and it needs to have aftermarket rods and pistons to handle more power, the stock rods are very weak.

The only way to know what ebay t3/t4 you have is to take it off and start measuring wheels, chances are its probably a standard issue ebay 50 trim.

The only way to know if the tune is any good and how much power its making is to put it on a dyno.

I too have owned several turbo dsm's as well as turbo honda's. They are a different world, anything that "worked" on a dsm you can forget about with honda's man.
You can crank the boost pressure up and just go with a dsm because it was turbo from the factory so the ecu is able to compensate for fuel and timing on it's own (not ideal, but it can do it).

With a turbo honda you have to remember that it was not turbo from the factory. The ecu only knows what it has been programmed to do, so if you start changing boost pressure or change injectors etc. you MUST re tune the ecu, it will not work it out on its own like a dsm ecu can, you will just blow up the motor.

Also the stock map sensor (this is what honda uses instead of a MAF) can only read up to 11 psi, go above that and the ecu gets confused and goes into limp mode. You have to put in a higher reading map sensor for more boost than 11 psi, and that map sensor has to be calibrated with the ecu tune to work properly.

When you go from a car that was boosted from the factory to a car that is boosted from N/A form it's a whole different world man.

shawn3168

Thanks for the reply man, Damn I didn't know ECU's this old had a limp mode vw's have that **** if the boost goes up in any way past what it's tuned for they go into limp.

Now im a little scared to mess with it. I was surprised to see there was no MBC on it just wastegate boost. Also yes ebay 50 trim.

Car is not running a MAP or o2 and egr system is gone. TPS and all that are still there.

I think next investment is an A/F gauge, yes whomever put the kit on did not even install an a/f gauge or EGT.

shawn3168

If it were chipped, will the chip still be present in the ECU? Or will it just be socketed I'm fuzzy on this?

I thought Honda's were supposed to be simple and easy. haha

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Open the ecu and take a pic of it then post it

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Honestly you should be afraid to mess with it, thats why I gave you the info that I did. Untill you REALLY know whats going on with the car and understand the honda world, messing with it will probably only result in a blown motor.

It does still have a map sensor, they are not on the intake, its a littlr tiny sensor somewhere on the intake manifold. Without one the car would not even start at all no matter what, this is what the ecu uses to read incoming vac./pressure...

The ecu will have a chip in it, post a pic up.
It may be in a low profile socket, which makes it very hard to tell if its just an oe chip that is soldered down or if its a removeable chip, but it for sure has a removable chip.

As far as the a/f gauge goes, you are talking about a wideband correct?

A regular a/f gauge is just a blinky light show for $20 that tells you nothing, you need a wideband to actually see a/f ratio's.

A wideband is a good start, also you should really read the stickys at the top of the FI forum, and read up as much as you can about turbo hondas and ecu tuning so you have a better understanding of how it works in honda world.

Like I said before as well, the stock D16 rods/pistons are pretty weak, and can only handle about 220 whp before catastrophy, so you really need to figure out whats going on in that block as well....

shawn3168

alright i opened it up it is chipped, my friend said he used to have like three of these chips for his old honda there like cheap *** ebay chips or something?











SST, can I use a 2 step?

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

your photos dont work.....

the chip its self is just a cheap sst chip, what matters is whats on the chip.....

shawn3168

I fixed the photo's. I don't know how to see whats on it I don't have anything to hook it up to a computer or anything.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

you probably wont ever know unless you can find out from the previous owner what software was used to tune it.

It's probably crome, but it could be something else as well.

I think the best thing you can do is:

Drop the oil pan and look to see if it has forged H or I beam rods, or stock.
This alone tells you what the motor is capable of handling.
If it has forged internals, you can make more power, if it has stock internals, stay below 220 whp.

As far as tuning goes, you kinda need to just take it to a dyno, see how much power it's laying down, and see what the A/F ratio's look like.

If your not happy with the results you see, pay the shop to re tune it to your liking, then it doesnt matter what program is on the chip.

A tune usually cost around $400, then you know exactly what you have.
And you dont NEED a wideband a/f gauge if you know it has been pro tuned, so save the money you would spend on a wideband, and have it tuned....

shawn3168

Damn that's some money, that suck's i can leave the boost were it is it's fast for everyday, i would just like to add a 2 step or launch control but i guess i can't do that.

I'll check the rods next oil change i just changed oil and filter so I'm not gunna take that apart yet.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Whatever program its using should have 2 step its just not turned on, you can pull the bin file off of the chip if you have a burner, allowing you to make changes, but you would have to know what softwarewas used to do this

shawn3168

got it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi5d5z2ZFv8