93h2beg

Long story short-
built lots of hondas- all N/A 1.6 ltrs to 2.3 strokers. was byying up parts for a built b20 vtec turbo- got the drift bug sold off all my turbo parts and the car.

Did the drift thing for a minute.(not that fun, really expensive tires)

sold the drift car- bought a hybrid (work commuting)
Have my cuda drag race car 542 ci motor 4 speed fun car. (lots of broken parts)

But I still have the itch for a turbo honda.

Found a 93 CX for a steal- got it. A buddy of mine had my first LS engine swap I ever did. Got it back, totally stock LS b18b1. It still had the new flywheel and clutch and PP bolted to it- maybe a few thousand miles on it.
I still have a built - ported and epoxied GSR head from a N/A build that i could never bring myself to sell.

I have 3 transmissions torn apart under my parents house, and I can make one work. 1 b16 1 gsr and 1 ls. Wil probably do the b16 gears with ls final drive, some sort of lsd.

Regardless I am not looking to do a crazy build, I want to use OEM type parts where I can.
That being said.... Is a holset hx35 a good turbo to get? Are there other recommendations? I had one for a h23 build that blew b4 it got boost.

I want to do a 300-400 hp car on 91 octane pump swill.

It seems there are a few people who seem to know their junk around here. Im not looking super specific build directions.

I know good fuel pump, big injectors, good piping and intercooler etc etc etc... But it sure seems the turbo game has changed a bit in the past few years. Looking for some light to be shed on inexpensive OEM type turbos. No im not thinking Ebay cheapy turbo.

bergercurtis

HX35 should be a tad big, but it'd get you to 400+. If you want to explore some more options.. I'm no guru by any means, but he is very helpful with tailoring your setup to your specific usage.

Speed Trapp Consulting

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

400 on stock internals is going to be...entertaining, at least. The stock rotating assembly starts to get angry when you go too far past 300-350, especially if you're only working with 91 pisswater.

2kdrift

x2 Lower your power goals or build the block. But honestly 300 HP Would still make for a great street car still lots of fun, really depends on what you wanna do with it

lots of "cheap" turbos available IMO that are not OEM. $600-$700 is not expensive at all when you start to consider all the other parts you will need for a turbo build

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hell, $700 is the absolute bottom of what I'd even consider spending on a turbo.

93h2beg

This car will not be a DD, just a fun mess around car. Heck I hate to admit this, but my Volt is so nice to drive, smooth, quiet, heck its flat out silent. Slow yes, but so easy and brainless to drive.

Ok so maybe revise my goals to 300ish whp.

Find a cheap $600-$700 turbo. If i over build on the turbo side, wil that not allow the engine to make HP easier? Meaning if My turbo is not straining to do xxx cfm at xxx psi then shouldn't it make more power than another smaller less efficient turbo maxed at the same cfm and psi?

2kdrift

True but theres a quite a few garrets you can get @ that price journal bearing 50 trim, 57 trim etc. They are tried and true to be reliable and make good power I just dont see the point in saving 3 or 4 hundred at best for a second hand turbo

If you dont max out or "stress" a turbo it will last longer. But generally its not a very good idea due to turbo lag. Usually you want to pretty much match appropriately to your goals that way you get less lag.

Put it like this 2 civics exactly the same setup but one has a 500 HP capable turbo compared to the other has a 350HP capable turbo. (they use different boost pressures to attain exactly 300 HP) The car with the smaller turbo will actually be faster, just because the 500Hp capable turbo will have much more lag

aditionally turbos have effiency ranges as far as boost pressure, which means its best to stay within that efficency range. Go check out the STC turbo website and watch some videos as he explains it much better then I am able to