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Well i had a lot end up in my way that didnt allow me to work on my own car but now finally a month later i am putting my new engine in, started the swap yesterday and im about half way done now, limited time to work on it in school but i like being able to do it in a shop, i really thought about swapping it at home but im happy i waited now, Only problem is my headers dont fit something wierd i think because they almost seem like theyre bent up the 2 bolt flange is way higher up than stock
Heres some pictures
Hoping i can have it test drivable by friday, n/a and maybe even without vtec wired in yet just so i can get it home.. possibly the stock y7 exhaust too which would be lame lol
And now im a member of a car club called Royal Alliance, its pretty cool a lot of people the club originated in Texas and is growing, peep the windshield banner if u can haha
A little bit of progress today, swaps about ready to drop in and is looking beautiful enough lol, cant wait to drive my car again even if it will be choked out like crazy by the y7 manifold cat haha
All clean
Now the only thing stuck on my mind is that 2 of the valve cover bolt's threads inside the head were already stripped out, so i put helicoils in the holes, but i am feeling worried that there might be tiny pieces of aluminum from the head inside there free floating now... Ill probably just go ahead and pull the cam girdle and cam and inspect and clean what i can from there..
Well its been running for almost a week, have already put 500 miles on it im going to go ahead and do an oil change now. Its been running pretty good too and the stage 4 isnt as harsh as i expected. I have vtec wired directly into the jumper harness and that also fixes the iacv because obd1 only has 1 spot for the wire to go.. Also my buddy hooked me up pretty good and gave me some ebay 4-2-1 headers that actually fit and were cleaner, only problem is i had no donut gasket to seal end of the downpipe so it has an exhaust leak, fixing that tomorrow now that i finally found the right gasket, seemed impossible to find at autopart stores
And the pictures
Im so happy to be driving my car again again haha, driving it easy but the little single cam has some pull, cant wait to see what the all motor d really does on the street lol I still havnt decided fully on what turbo kit to run, but im sort of leaning towards getting a precision 39mm wastegate, and probably some 550cc injectors then just run the rev9 kit after 1000 miles, the turbo itself is still in great condition i think it can handle at least 200whp for some while but i am on the look out for a new turbo and ram horn manifold, maybe a bov.
Soo i have an update for the thread tho i wish it didnt happen Lol, i dropped a valve and bent it and broke the valve guide so i need to replace those and everything else looks ok.. Heres a couple pictures
So i didnt do good enough research on what i should set my limiter to, it was at 8500 which now i kno is way too high, when i have it retuned i will lower it to 7900, and now im finally installing my tachometer
I like it, i think it looks good and doesnt block the temp guage either.. I used all the hardware it came with to mount it and fit pretty much perfectly n clean..
Also got some injectors a while ago, Some smartfire 550cc they should do good for my temporary goal of 250whp coming up here soon.. Hopefully within a month or two it'll b boosted but ill have to see
Also im gonna quit running the clear cam gear cover, it broke almost all the way around, and was really dirty from inside
My car is back running today, had to put stock retainers in the head because 2 or 3 other ti retainers were ready to drop valves. Runs good again now and VERY soon it will be boosted, gettin ready to thro my walbro 255 in and ordering the list of turbo kit parts i want to run for now.. Got a few pictures and total cost to repair was $100.. $10 1 supertech valve guide, $10 1 ferrea 5000 valve, $40 oem head gasket, and $40 labor to install the guide, used retainers from the stock y7 head
Welp, I have a sweet lookin Precision wastegate ordered, Along with all the other small stuff i need for my turbo kit.. Going to boost the car on the budget kit upto 10psi max for now and see what it makes, Cant wait
Pretty much next step is to bolt on the kit n hit the tuner, but where to go is yet to be decided.. heres a couple pictures
Had a nice parts pile building up again, the big white box is for my ranger tho, It really needed some new coil springs so i got some 2" (front end) lift coils for it Lol
Its so beautiful feels good to have a great quality wastegate to run, and its not a bad deal, around the same price as a basic tial 38mm but this precision is a 39mm that comes with a full range of springs, and v band adapters and all the hardware and new gaskets, very happy with how it all looks so far. It even came with a 1.5psi spring that ill use to drive to the tuner
Ended up just getting a 2 guage pod instead of the 3 i always planned on, Not sure if ill get a wideband or if i even wanted it mounted in the pillar permanantly anyway since i hear they really dont last long in a daily driven car. I do need a copper tubing installation kit for this oil pressure guage tho.
I am excited to see how it does, getting ready to replace an inner tie rod, do valve lash, then go for 4 tires and an alignment, after that its time to boost it
retainer came loose and it made contact with the piston, most likely happened at higher rpm then the motor was meant for
Well yup what 2kdrift said, the keepers pulled thru the retainers some how
Got the valve lash done, some of them definitely tightened up after breaking in the motor, the whole exhaust side mainly, next is a compression test to make sure everything is good to go for boost, except i needa pick up some helicoils to put my valve cover back on. Lol.
My work shop car port lol
Lil y8 still lookin clean
All adjusted n looks good for now
Last edited by 92_civic_eg; 02-03-2017 at 06:48 PM.
never used helicoils, but you might look into time sert just incase you have not heard of those. A bit pricey but they work great
Originally Posted by TheShodan
The block, sure.. Not a valve cover. By the time you get to do all that, you can get another d-series cover.
Originally Posted by 2kdrift
yea tru lol. I assume the problem is with the head not the cover itself
Yes the problem was in the head not the valve cover, i used helicoils last time because they were free and I've heard of time serts but never messed with them, these helicoils worked but are kind of pricey for a 1 size kit at $40 and some change lol
Did the compression test and they all came in very consistent, Just above 150psi so i am happy with that, heres a pic of the guage from cylinder #4 which was just a hair higher than the rest, 1 2 & 3 all were just past the 150 line
Looks like its ready for boost, its gonna be sick lol
hell yeah dude you're setup will be a dice roll on 400 whp. Just throw 20-20 psi at it with some e85 and your in good shape.
My goal for the current setup is only 250whp, And you mean dice roll as in whether itll pop or not? My motor should hold 400whp, but im not attempting it on this turbo setup, once i upgrade turbo, manifold, and intercooler then i will be going for 400whp and most likely sticking with 93 octane because there isnt any e85 near me, but thanks either way
Left to do is swapping the oil pans, setup return line, bolt up exhaust and finish the oil pressure guage installation, then top off the fluids n start it up, double check everything and go see a tuner, im getting prettty excited to see what itll do even on low boost with this kit
Trying to have it done for Import face off in gainesville on the 29th, its a qtr mile and i alrdy have my ticket, even got some slicks to throw on since i found them new for a good price
They are Mickey thompson et drags, just some 20"x6" on 14's.. Pretty small but i think they should get the job done
Last edited by 92_civic_eg; 01-22-2017 at 07:30 PM.
Seems to be going well. But please be careful of that oil feed flange. That spells trouble. Those of the cheapo ones that have a small restricted hole in the bottom that is the cause for a lot of starvation issues.
Seems to be going well. But please be careful of that oil feed flange. That spells trouble. Those of the cheapo ones that have a small restricted hole in the bottom that is the cause for a lot of starvation issues.
Well actually i did not double check it, the feed line i bought did come with one like that, but I just used the one that was already on the turbo and think i remember noticing it was larger, I probably will check it out and if it is the same style just drill it out a little bit
But the kit is fully bolted on and the car runs pretty smooth, looks like I'll work out any kinks i can find tomorrow, finish the exhaust and put the front bumper on
Should be getting it tuned on thursday, driving it to tampa for a dyno tune
Well actually i did not double check it, the feed line i bought did come with one like that, but I just used the one that was already on the turbo and think i remember noticing it was larger, I probably will check it out and if it is the same style just drill it out a little bit
Should be getting it tuned on thursday, driving it to tampa for a dyno tune
Just because it was in a kit, doesn't mean they knew what they were doing. It's not the hole size, it's the fact that it's a hollow flange with a cavity and hole on the bottom. Just keep a major eye on it on your tune day. (And yes, where the hole is does matter)
Just because it was in a kit, doesn't mean they knew what they were doing. It's not the hole size, it's the fact that it's a hollow flange with a cavity and hole on the bottom. Just keep a major eye on it on your tune day. (And yes, where the hole is does matter)
I can check it again, pretty sure I can just take off the feed line without losing much if any oil, so it should have the restricted hole above the cavity youre saying? So that the inside of the flange doesnt see full oil pressure?
I can check it again, pretty sure I can just take off the feed line without losing much if any oil, so it should have the restricted hole above the cavity youre saying? So that the inside of the flange doesn't see full oil pressure?
There's a write up somewhere where I describe the two types in complete detail. I'll need to find it. but suffice it to say, get rid of that flange in the meantime.
10-19-2016, 02:24 PM
Re: 92_civic_eg's D16y8 Turbocharged build thread
