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But should I use my micro to check clearances after the crank is polished and sent back? haha..
I'm going with OE bearings with a little looser clearance, shooting for .0018in.
This was my largest headache. Trying to figure out what bearing and what size. I went with standard and nailed .0015 clearance across the board. But.. I also did not polish my crank. It was good and didn't need any finishing. Go for the appropriate size bearings you'll need to hit your target range. (Potentially having to mix and match sizes to hit your target tolerance).There will be standard, undersized and oversized. You can spend too much money here ordering one set of each to reach your goal; or you can shoot from the hip and go with 1 set of oversized. This part, sir, is definitely a roll of the dice. Once you have your bearings, assemble the bearings to the rods, then add a bit of plastiguage, then rods to the crank (no rings on the pistons for ease of testing). Torque down the rod bolts then disassemble and check the plastiguage clearance. Adjust as necessary.
This was my largest headache. Trying to figure out what bearing and what size. I went with standard and nailed .0015 clearance across the board. But.. I also did not polish my crank. It was good and didn't need any finishing. Go for the appropriate size bearings you'll need to hit your target range. (Potentially having to mix and match sizes to hit your target tolerance).There will be standard, undersized and oversized. You can spend too much money here ordering one set of each to reach your goal; or you can shoot from the hip and go with 1 set of oversized. This part, sir, is definitely a roll of the dice. Once you have your bearings, assemble the bearings to the rods, then add a bit of plastiguage, then rods to the crank (no rings on the pistons for ease of testing). Torque down the rod bolts then disassemble and check the plastiguage clearance. Adjust as necessary.
this is what is throwing me off as well, I plan on micro measuring as well... however.. I have to order the bearings before measuring so I'm just rolling the dice? The numbers and letters on the block and crank will give you exact replacement bearings.. however if I want a little looser, do I order a different bearing? and trust me, I've been reading on this for the past few hours and still can't wrap my head around it haha
This was my largest headache. Trying to figure out what bearing and what size. I went with standard and nailed .0015 clearance across the board. But.. I also did not polish my crank. It was good and didn't need any finishing. Go for the appropriate size bearings you'll need to hit your target range. (Potentially having to mix and match sizes to hit your target tolerance).There will be standard, undersized and oversized. You can spend too much money here ordering one set of each to reach your goal; or you can shoot from the hip and go with 1 set of oversized. This part, sir, is definitely a roll of the dice. Once you have your bearings, assemble the bearings to the rods, then add a bit of plastiguage, then rods to the crank (no rings on the pistons for ease of testing). Torque down the rod bolts then disassemble and check the plastiguage clearance. Adjust as necessary.
and what happens if I order bearings, measure them up with both micro and plastigauge to double check... and they are not to the spec I was looking for, I scrap the ones I ordered and start over?
this is what is throwing me off as well, I plan on micro measuring as well... however.. I have to order the bearings before measuring so I'm just rolling the dice? The numbers and letters on the block and crank will give you exact replacement bearings.. however if I want a little looser, do I order a different bearing? and trust me, I've been reading on this for the past few hours and still can't wrap my head around it haha
Brother, I read on this particular **** for a couple weeks and ended up just winging it.. STILL can't make sense of it; post build. The block map legend (as I like to call it) gives stock bearing sizes. You **can** use it as a guide, but remember, this is for ordering replacement OEM bearings on a stock block and crank.
Originally Posted by 716_ISPYPSI
and what happens if I order bearings, measure them up with both micro and plastigauge to double check... and they are not to the spec I was looking for, I scrap the ones I ordered and start over?
No need to scrap em. That's why I said you can spend more money than you think here. If you order one set of each size; 1 standard, 1 under, 1 over. You can mix and match as needed. Mains plus rods=6 sets of bearings, unless you're lucky enough to find them all together.. ACL race is about 120ish a set? See how it runs away from ya?
Brother, I read on this particular **** for a couple weeks and ended up just winging it.. STILL can't make sense of it; post build. The block map legend (as I like to call it) gives stock bearing sizes. You **can** use it as a guide, but remember, this is for ordering replacement OEM bearings on a stock block and crank.
No need to scrap em. That's why I said you can spend more money than you think here. If you order one set of each size; 1 standard, 1 under, 1 over. You can mix and match as needed. Mains plus rods=6 sets of bearings, unless you're lucky enough to find them all together.. ACL race is about 120ish a set? See how it runs away from ya?
INSANITY! So if I want to run a little looser than normal I'm going to order undersized and just go from there. hopefully my local Honda dealer as these in stock in case I need to get different ones
In an hour or so ill be stripping the engine down, throwing in the new rods for now to see how much to notch off, and getting that all prepped to be notched. probably tomorrow night.
He explains checking bearing clearance and what not... torquing the girdle down he had step 1 at 32 ft.lbs and step 2 at 53 ft.lbs .... but then later down when actually installing the crank and rods he has step 1 at 18 and step 2 at 38...
why the difference? tighten a little more during clearance testing just to make sure the clearance is correct? or is he inaccurate with one of them.
this is what is throwing me off as well, I plan on micro measuring as well... however.. I have to order the bearings before measuring so I'm just rolling the dice? The numbers and letters on the block and crank will give you exact replacement bearings.. however if I want a little looser, do I order a different bearing? and trust me, I've been reading on this for the past few hours and still can't wrap my head around it haha
also, didn't get a clear answer on this... should I make my measurements and do the math on which bearings to get before or after the polish of the crank? or is it so minimal it doesn't matter.
INSANITY! So if I want to run a little looser than normal I'm going to order undersized and just go from there. hopefully my local Honda dealer as these in stock in case I need to get different ones
In an hour or so ill be stripping the engine down, throwing in the new rods for now to see how much to notch off, and getting that all prepped to be notched. probably tomorrow night.
He explains checking bearing clearance and what not... torquing the girdle down he had step 1 at 32 ft.lbs and step 2 at 53 ft.lbs .... but then later down when actually installing the crank and rods he has step 1 at 18 and step 2 at 38...
why the difference? tighten a little more during clearance testing just to make sure the clearance is correct? or is he inaccurate with one of them.
I couldn't begin to explain why this was done. Maybe a typo or something he read from the manual. **shrug**
I'm liable to catch soooo much flak for what I'm about to say; there were issues with this car starting after the rebuild so... Take from THAT what you will. However... I used that write up as a baseline for my rebuild too. There were a few things I did differently though.
edit.. now that I think about it, I believe the first sequence had to do with bearing crush **shrug**
Ready to start notching! Going to throw the new rods in to figure out where and how much to notch and go from there, wish me luck... should I install the pistons first or will having the engine perfectly lined up be enough with just rods.
Also, I don't see THAT much of a difference between the Manley and stock rods, I would have been just fine keeping stock internals ....
Piston wrist pins may need to be pressed in. Not sure with those. You'll want to install the pistons without rings to get a good idea of where you REALLY need to notch. You **may** be able to without the piston, I'm honestly not 100% sure.
I did mine with pistons installed, but with no rings yet.
Piston wrist pins may need to be pressed in. Not sure with those. You'll want to install the pistons without rings to get a good idea of where you REALLY need to notch. You **may** be able to without the piston, I'm honestly not 100% sure.
I did mine with pistons installed, but with no rings yet.
yeah I think they do, I'm gonna take them to a shop to get put together quick to save me the headache
betta warn em' kid, Mr. Meth's a
boiling pot
bout to blow his lid from the presha
too hot for tv, fo sheezie
too many wanna be hard, be easy!
it's all in together, going all out together
it dont take much to please me
(sorry...i couldn't resist Da Rockwilda)
i wish i had seen this post from before. All the Single cam parts i have i coulda helped you out
i have a set of CP pistons with 11 miles on them...
sleeved d16z6 block
arp headstuds
built-up head (sold a week ago)
clutch..pressure plate, lightened flywheel and arp bolts, with arp pressure plate bolts
left the single cam game alone after i got my hands on a free b16 :-)
betta warn em' kid, Mr. Meth's a
boiling pot
bout to blow his lid from the presha
too hot for tv, fo sheezie
too many wanna be hard, be easy!
it's all in together, going all out together
it dont take much to please me
(sorry...i couldn't resist Da Rockwilda)
i wish i had seen this post from before. All the Single cam parts i have i coulda helped you out
i have a set of CP pistons with 11 miles on them...
sleeved d16z6 block
arp headstuds
built-up head (sold a week ago)
clutch..pressure plate, lightened flywheel and arp bolts, with arp pressure plate bolts
left the single cam game alone after i got my hands on a free b16 :-)
build me a list with everything you have left with prices if you don’t mind and maybe I’ll go shopping!
Trying to use one of the links on that Forced Induction FAQ thread that was originally posted way back up and its not finding the address...
can only lead me to an explanation between the different types of turbo manifolds/turbo mount styles? Doing some research to figure out which manifold I'm going to go with.
Thanks in advance.. and yes I've done some googling and will continue to do so but if someone has a link to that thread that works or another one, that would be much easier.
Trying to use one of the links on that Forced Induction FAQ thread that was originally posted way back up and its not finding the address...
can only lead me to an explanation between the different types of turbo manifolds/turbo mount styles? Doing some research to figure out which manifold I'm going to go with.
Thanks in advance.. and yes I've done some googling and will continue to do so but if someone has a link to that thread that works or another one, that would be much easier.
There are many many types.
What was the power goal again?
What fuel type?
What type of power are you looking to deliver? (street car/"road race"/drag, etc.)
Will the car have a/c?
What size turbo do you have in mind?
^answering those will help narrow down the suggested manifold style.
Trying to use one of the links on that Forced Induction FAQ thread that was originally posted way back up and its not finding the address...
This was another huge problem I discovered. A LOT of the old content is missing pictures and so on, IF the links still even work, regardless of what forum you'll find them on.
This is largely due to photobucket going postal and begging for money to host your ****. So, many of the pics are gone from those threads. Anywho. I found some mitigation to this problem in youtube. Videos were just as helpful and they've managed to stay put unless the publishing party removed them.
What was the power goal again?
What fuel type?
What type of power are you looking to deliver? (street car/"road race"/drag, etc.)
Will the car have a/c?
What size turbo do you have in mind?
^answering those will help narrow down the suggested manifold style.
shooting for 450whp safely but won’t be mad if I come closer to 500.
93 pump octane unless higher octane is recommended in which case I’ll run 100.
car will be a street/road race. Low end power would be nice but I wanna hit boost quickly and hold consistently.
AC I’m impartial to so if there are more options without it then AC goes out the window, no pun intended.
i guess all these will help decide which turbo I wanna run as well. Haven’t dug that deep yet but I def want to run a turbo on the bigger side but with minimal lag, in a perfect world.
shooting for 450whp safely but won’t be mad if I come closer to 500.
93 pump octane unless higher octane is recommended in which case I’ll run 100.
car will be a street/road race. Low end power would be nice but I wanna hit boost quickly and hold consistently.
AC I’m impartial to so if there are more options without it then AC goes out the window, no pun intended.
i guess all these will help decide which turbo I wanna run as well. Haven’t dug that deep yet but I def want to run a turbo on the bigger side but with minimal lag, in a perfect world.
The power level is good, the range you're wanting it in will be the difficult part. I can't offer too much advice on which turbo to choose, but I could suggest you may consider swapping the head to Y8. The Z6 head does better up top, the Y8 does better low/mid.
The power level is good, the range you're wanting it in will be the difficult part. I can't offer too much advice on which turbo to choose, but I could suggest you may consider swapping the head to Y8. The Z6 head does better up top, the Y8 does better low/mid.
im gonna roll with what I have since it was gifted, so ill sacrifice some low end power and build the head to handle high revs and go more that route... this is just preliminary research on manifolds and turbos just to get an idea... ill do more readings on different size turbos and pairings with manifolds and go from there... just looking for someone with good links to check out since that one wasn't valid anymore! otherwise ill keep forum hunting.
im gonna roll with what I have since it was gifted, so ill sacrifice some low end power and build the head to handle high revs and go more that route... this is just preliminary research on manifolds and turbos just to get an idea... ill do more readings on different size turbos and pairings with manifolds and go from there... just looking for someone with good links to check out since that one wasn't valid anymore! otherwise ill keep forum hunting.
thanks my friend
Sure! Look on youtube for chillin garage. He's done phenomenally with the Z6 and has been of great help to me for my build. He's a member here, of course as well; Junvillaruz.
Sure! Look on youtube for chillin garage. He's done phenomenally with the Z6 and has been of great help to me for my build. He's a member here, of course as well; Junvillaruz.
OKAY OKAY OKAY no one laugh at me but I think I made my first idiotic blunder.
I installed all the pistons onto the connecting rods.
and just realized that with the slight overbore of the pistons (75.5), I won't be able to install the new rods to turn the engine over to check where and how much to notch.... what do I do now
OKAY OKAY OKAY no one laugh at me but I think I made my first idiotic blunder.
I installed all the pistons onto the connecting rods.
and just realized that with the slight overbore of the pistons (75.5), I won't be able to install the new rods to turn the engine over to check where and how much to notch.... what do I do now
Just wait til it comes back from CSS then. Not a problem! You'll need to clean up the block again, but still no biggie.
Breathe brutha, breathe!!
shooting for 450whp safely but won’t be mad if I come closer to 500.
93 pump octane unless higher octane is recommended in which case I’ll run 100.
car will be a street/road race. Low end power would be nice but I wanna hit boost quickly and hold consistently.
AC I’m impartial to so if there are more options without it then AC goes out the window, no pun intended.
i guess all these will help decide which turbo I wanna run as well. Haven’t dug that deep yet but I def want to run a turbo on the bigger side but with minimal lag, in a perfect world.
There are more options with a/c out of the way primarily because you are just allowed so much more room comfortably to work with; but the power can also be had fairly easily with a/c. Pairing an efficient/responsive BB turbo with a bottom mount AC Mini or ramhorn will get it done. Higher octane will benefit you if it's readily available along with a mild cam. The Z6 head is fine all around. 450-500whp out of a D on 93 while being super responsive is a "cocktail" needing the right ingredients (to keep it enjoyable and in one piece). What camshaft/intake manifold are you using/planning on using?
Originally Posted by 716_ISPYPSI
OKAY OKAY OKAY no one laugh at me but I think I made my first idiotic blunder.
I installed all the pistons onto the connecting rods.
and just realized that with the slight overbore of the pistons (75.5), I won't be able to install the new rods to turn the engine over to check where and how much to notch.... what do I do now
Just notch it afterwords, leave the block plugs out and have plenty of brake clean on hand to hose it down/clean it out.
08-01-2018, 03:48 PM
Re: 716_ISPYPSI's D16 Turbo Build Thread
Re: 716_ISPYPSI's D16 Turbo Build Thread
