B18Sleeper

Ok I am looking to build a B16a to break 600hp. This will not be a Daily Driver, cause I am redoing all the suspension, body, brakes, and everything right now for a weekend Drag car. Its gonna look clean and be fast as hell, but I have been researching this for months now, and before anyone says anything about some pieces I have a bare B16a block and head nothing else, so this is why I have the TB, IM and other stuff that I know isn't needed to prolly reach this. Its basically being a motor from scratch I have a few parts from the motor I got be its basically a bare block. Anyways this is what I have came up with over the pass months reading and searching. So is my goal possible with this or is there anything someone can help me out with. I was thinking about a 83mm bore but I aint sure, This motor will not be built for a while or until I finish my suspension, brakes, and paint. But yes there are somethings left off more than likely info me of what else I may need. Thanks

Balance Crank
Surface Head
Bore Block
Valve Job
CP Pistons 9:1 84mm
Crower Rods
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor
Golden Eagle 84mm Headgasket
ARP Head Studs
Skunk 2 Racing Standard Comp. Valves
Skunk 2 Racing Valve Springs
Skunk 2 Titanium Valve Retainers
Crower Camshaft
STR Pro Series Gears
JG Edlebrock Victor X Manifold
JG Edlebrock 65mm Throttle Body
NGK Spark Plugs
NGK Spark Plug Wires
ACL Bearings
Flex-A-Lite Radiator Fan
Fluidyne Radiator
HKS SSQV BOV
Precision 1000cc Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
STR Fuel Rail
AEM FPR
Precision FMIC (750hp Rated)
Precision SC61 Turbocharger
Turbo Misc Goodies
Boost/Vac Gauge
EGT Gauge
A/F Gauge
Oil Press. Gauge
Water Temp. Gauge
HKS Boost Controller
HKS Turbo Timer
AEM EMS or Hondata S300

tony n.

buy my car

B18Sleeper

I DONT WANT YOUR CAR. Dude I already have 5k invested into my civic and all I want is to start on my motor. I believe I have a setup that will work for 600hp but I just want input, instead of buy my car.

kyden

you're going to need a diff fuel pump setup if you wish to reliably break 600hp.

B18Sleeper

this is why i came here, do u have any suggestions? cause i am about to put my block and head in the machine shop to start work but i need to know about the 84 or 83mm bore plus sleeving the block. I know it will need to be done but before i send it off i need some input. its hard to find and figure out everything on here on your own. i just dont want to jump in and waste money on something that needs replaced cause it fails on me. or it doesn't work as i expected.

tony n.

If i was you i go with 84mm. Bigger fuel system...it held me back from making 600+

Go with a bigger turbo i had a sc61 wasnt too happy with it

Goodluck with the build

B18Sleeper

fuel system can u give me an idea? the only thing i can think of is bigger injectors and aeromotive a1000 fuel pump. but the FPR i dont see how it wouldnt work. then which turbo do u recommend for this?

HondaKyle

gonna need to get rid of about half that stuff. Boosting a car isnt as easy as it sounds. Start off by shooting for 300 horse and then work off that. try a GT turbo also they are more money but well worth it if you have to wait a little longer they are around 800-1300 for the size and type you should be looking at

crank shaft- stock is good till around 800 horse


A/F Gauge- is pointless


Skunk 2 Titanium Valve Retainers- dont get titanium you have to change them every 7-10K miles because they deform

HKS Turbo Timer- they are nice to have but if your getting low on cash just wait this one out

Precision 1000cc Fuel Injectors- 800cc should be fine but you never know on this one ask some one who knows a little more

Boner_Ben

I assume you are sleeving the motor since you said you want to go with an 83-84mm bore. I personally have made 570whp with a stock sleeve b16a with some rods/pistons, t3/67, 1000cc injectors, walboro, and good engine managment.

Sounds like a solid setup with the right tuner.

HondaKyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume you are sleeving the motor since you said you want to go with an 83-84mm bore. I personally have made 570whp with a stock sleeve b16a with some rods/pistons, t3/67, 1000cc injectors, walboro, and good engine managment.

Sounds like a solid setup with the right tuner. </TD></TR></TABLE>nice I miss having a B motor

Turbo-charged

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gonna need to get rid of about half that stuff. Boosting a car isnt as easy as it sounds. Start off by shooting for 300 horse and then work off that. try a GT turbo also they are more money but well worth it if you have to wait a little longer they are around 800-1300 for the size and type you should be looking at

crank shaft- stock is good till around 800 horse


A/F Gauge- is pointless


Skunk 2 Titanium Valve Retainers- dont get titanium you have to change them every 7-10K miles because they deform

HKS Turbo Timer- they are nice to have but if your getting low on cash just wait this one out

Precision 1000cc Fuel Injectors- 800cc should be fine but you never know on this one ask some one who knows a little more</TD></TR></TABLE>


where in the hell did ANY of this info come from?

your original post was too long for me to read, but i would STRONGLY suggest starting out with an LS block over a B16. your powerband will be so much more braud, make more power, spool faster, etc etc.

JDogg

if you must stick w/the b16 block go buy a crower 89mm stroker kit

matt k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you must stick w/the b16 block go buy a crower 89mm stroker kit</TD></TR></TABLE>why a b16 will make good power they don't beat the skirts on the piston bad they don't have windage/crank case pressure problems like the bigger cranks the power band is there you just have to rev them. to me its like the small block of the honda world . great for the street they don't make the huge tq numbers so they are a little bit easy er on the tires. sleeve it put an eagle rod je/wiesco/ross/arias/ shelf piston decnt head good turbo call it a day not very hard . now you need to spend the most money on the tune with out that every thing else is crap here is my test motor 84mm eagle rod je piston 32lbs falling to 28lbs when i put the bigger spring power held till 11000 rpm boost has been as high as 38lbs to 40lbs at the track [IMG][/IMG]


Modified by bob menuts at 10:49 PM 3/1/2008


Modified by bob menuts at 10:54 PM 3/1/2008

tony n.

i rather build a gsr

B18Sleeper

Ok first off I want to build a B16a cause I dont want to go with the same everyone else does. B16a isnt everyones choice but its the motor I want to build. As for everything I got down being not needed. I am buying a BARE BLOCK NO INTAKE OR ANYTHING. So why not just buy these aftermarket and better performing parts? Then why do you want me to start out with 300hp and move on from there? explain that to me?

Turbo-charged

i dont think ive ever seen a dyno run start the sample @ peak torque before


i had a b16 in my street car for years making about 450whp. it was fun....but then i put an LS block in it with the same head and wondered why i ever spent the money on the B16. oh well haha

Legion

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk 2 Titanium Valve Retainers- dont get titanium you have to change them every 7-10K miles because they deform</TD></TR></TABLE>

My skunk2 titanium retainers have 20k miles on them. Not a scuff/scratch/crack/"deformity" on them.

MidShipCivic

84mm b16a. Do it do it.

matt k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think ive ever seen a dyno run start the sample @ peak torque before


i had a b16 in my street car for years making about 450whp. it was fun....but then i put an LS block in it with the same head and wondered why i ever spent the money on the B16. oh well haha</TD></TR></TABLE>ya im bad about that with my car ive made thousands of dyno pulls and still hit the button late

B18Sleeper

guys i am just lookin for a b16a that will be fun and fast. i dont want a ls block or anything like that, cause i have an SI. i just want to pull as much hp out of this motor as possible then later on i may build another one with an ls head but this car will be a complete b16a motor. so is what i have a waste or not, if so what is the wasted money? dont say the b16a motor and the whole thing either.

B18Sleeper

ok so many ppl say alot of my list is a waste and not needed but no one is helping me out? guys i aint an expert but when u have a block with only pistons, crank, and rods and a bare head. i dont know what is a waste on this list cause gettin oem honda parts wouldnt be a big difference in price. so can someone please elaborate on what is not needed with this build? cause i am nearly done with the body, supsension, and brakes and ready to start on this motor. but many of people on here and built there motors and experienced stuff i want to try and avoid if possible. can someone please help me out on my build. thanks

SOUNDEFFECTS

it will make 600 whp with a bigger turbo easier but it should be possible on your setup.

nowtype

Don't use Crower rods. Use Eagle or Manley. Crower Vtec cams are also known to be garbage. Run Skunk2 cams. Which one depends on your turbo/manifold selection. Don't bore under 84mm. With a B16 you need all the torque you can get. I would go B18 block with a LS crank, but since you don't want to, 84mm B16 would be your best bet.

B18Sleeper

so what turbo the GT35R? and I wouldnt mind an ls crank i just want to use the b16 block and head for this build. internals can be from whatever motor.

nowtype

You can't use a LS crank without increasing the deck height of the B16. You'd have to buy an after market crank if you wanted to stroke the B16 and then you'd be spending way more than it would cost to buy a bare LS block and crank.