SovXietday

Precision 5857BB (ball bearing) turbo. Just under 600 miles on it. Last time I drove it hard was on the dyno, ever since then the car has been smoking badly. Turbo came off today, this is what I found. Just a Dseries.





Obviously the exhaust side seal is gone. No warranty. What kind of costs am I looking at to fix this, or is it just time to go BW like I should have in the beginning...

I don't really know how this happened. 3AN feed, 10AN return, vertical CHRA, never had any issues before on a journal Garrett. Hooked up as per the instructions with the factory restrictor that came on the turbo. The instructions literally say "we do not feel it is necessary to use an external oil feed restrictor fitting". Apparantly I needed another one.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

ouch rebuild time on a BB chra, = LOOT

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

have any pics of the turbo mounted on the car?

SovXietday

Sure do.





?!

wilham320

iTrader: (1)

That sucks.... This is the reason I haven't had the guts to get a precision. Seems like there are a few lucky ones that have no problems, but a lot of folks are experiencing the same failures.

How long has it been on your car? No Warranty??

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Since those are ceramic ball-bearings, you may have to purchase another cartridge completely from Precision. It is their cartridge, and no other facility will attempt to try and rebuild that.

I'm sorry that this happened to you. what was the oil pressure of the turbocharger at cold start and WOT? this is important.

Lewy. Dee Ayy

iTrader: (1)

i have a 5557e none ball bearing...i will get random puffs of smoke when coming to a stop does not happen everytime. and sometimes just when the car idles for a bit....im praying it does not get worse...only 1,500 miles on the turbo...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, that could be from a variety areas. Are you talking oil smoke, fuel smoke?, etc.

cbustuner

I think you jinxed yourself by posting in the failing pte turbo thread.

I had a similar issue on a garret after I built a new motor with a lot higher oil pressure then the old motor it was on. I just ran a smaller restrictor and it fixed the problem. I don't know If I would add one if they told you not to though

SovXietday

So pretty much not really worth fixing then?

Cold idle is around 75psi, WOT was roughly 95psi. Too much for the factory restrictor to handle? (well, other than the obvious lol!)

LOL yeah I guess I did didn't I?

When I took off the downpipe the turbine was literally sitting in a puddle of oil. I don't think a secondary restrictor is going to fix my problem.

AlexDphoto

sorry to hear youre having problems with that pte. Time to go garrett (stc ;D )

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, that's pretty damn high. Even the Garrett built in restrictors can't handle that kind of pressure. You definately overpressurized it.

Guys, I've said it before, I'll say it again. Precision employees and statements don't count on individual applications and their oil pressures, no matter what the damn website says. Stop listening to these statements, use proper judgment, and go by the oil pressure of your engine. I know they're supposed to know their own product backwards and forwards, but it doesn't mean they know your application backwards and forwards, as they deal with hundreds of engine applications besides our little Hondas, they can't possibly know yours.

With newer engine platforms in the Import community, (the 8th Gen civics come to mind) oil pressures are forever increasing. (8th Gen civics see about 90psi of oil pressure, Subarus see 100psi of pressure, and they're getting higher)

If oil pressure 75psi +, use a .060-.065" restrictor on Journal bearing applications, and .030-.040" on Ball-bearing applications.

SovXietday

Welp, that's an expensive lesson to learn for a part that I literally have laying around...

Thanks for the info Shodan, hopefully my mistake can keep someone else from doing it.

cbustuner

My exhaust housing was just as bad as yours.It was all in my downpipe and I had a bit sitting in my turbine housing.I didn't even notice it smoking heavily,I only realized something was wrong because there was an oil spot on the floor in my garage.When I jacked the car up, there was oil where the downpipe meets the turbine housing and where the plates hold the exhaust housing to the chra.I'd say it was pretty bad lol. My wot oil psi was about the same as yours. I cleaned everything out, went from a .075 to .065 to .040 and no more oil in the housing after 200 miles of test driving and ever since then. I used a gauge after the restrictor to initially test out my readings at idle.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

OP yu can try installing a restrictor and it may remedy the issue or at least reduce the oil leaking to a tollerable amount so you dont have to just chuck a very expensive turbo in the trash

rich7777

Once a turbo gets like this do the oil seal rings need replacing or can a restrictor save it (sometimes) ?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sometimes adding the restrictor after seeing these symptoms is ok. You may be able to save it. But if the turbine shaft ring is truly bad, it may or may not be able to be rebuilt. Since this was a 5857 BB application, and Precision states that because of the ceramic bearings inside the CHRA it can be rebuilt, I can't say for certain whether or not it truly is done. That's really for Precision to decide at this point.

SovXietday

Going to try a restrictor on it and run it for a while. If it doesn't fix it I'll send it to Precision to see what costs will be and make a decision on getting a new turbo from there. Keep your fingers crossed lol.

Shodan, got your messages. Definitely will go that route if need be. Thanks again!