3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends?
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3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends?
I ma getting ready to order teh bends to make my new downpipe. It is 3" and needs to be ac/ps compatible. I dont have anything to reference and was wondering what bend i will need to make this work? I was thinking 3 180 degree bends and 1 straight, will that be enough bends? if not then what will i need?
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: 3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends? (turbotime)
you should only need 2 180's and one straight and dont forget a flex section
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ok now my dp is MILD steel, the only flex sections are SS, can MILD be welded to SS?
Sorry i have 0 welding knowledge
other than knowing the diff between MIG and TIG
Sorry i have 0 welding knowledge
other than knowing the diff between MIG and TIG
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Re: (turbotime)
well how you route it et cetera will determine if it is a/c compatible, if you think the 180 bend isnt tight enough get an extra section of straight pipe and make the bend using pie-cuts
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Re: (turbotime)
Well what manifold are you using? There are very few manifolds that are fabbed up with the intent for a 3" DP to retain AC.
Unless the manifold states so... you might be using a 2.5" transitioned to 3" downpipe.
Unless the manifold states so... you might be using a 2.5" transitioned to 3" downpipe.
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im using the revhard manifold which is really similar to the DRAG manifold as far as how it places the turbo... the manifold is ac/ps compatible
ill just get 2 180s and a straight and a flex, and since the manifold is ac/ps compatible i dont think itll be too tight to fit a 3" in whatddya think?
ill just get 2 180s and a straight and a flex, and since the manifold is ac/ps compatible i dont think itll be too tight to fit a 3" in whatddya think?
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Re: (turbotime)
you won't be able to do it with just the bends. your gonna need to have a bunch of little pie cuts. it gonna be really tight. and one of your mount bolt will probably be really hard to get in
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i think if i cut a 90 bend at 45 degrees i can prolly snake it past the ac compressor.... the draw dp was hard to get to all the bolts but it had plenty of rom clearning teh ac compressor
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Re: (turbotime)
It's gonna be rough... any manifold (unless it's stated AC Compatible w/3" DP) won't fit with a full 3" DP. Even with Pie cuts it's a huge challenge without angleing or denting the bend to clear the compressor. And at that point a 2.5" bend from the turbo may flow better than the superangled 3" DP.
If you are getting this custom fabbed you're best bet is to use a 2.5" bend and expand it to 3" as soon as you can.
Face it: you gotta pay to play... Either with your wallet or with taking out the creature features.
If you are getting this custom fabbed you're best bet is to use a 2.5" bend and expand it to 3" as soon as you can.
Face it: you gotta pay to play... Either with your wallet or with taking out the creature features.
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i hear ya!
This is getting MIG welded and tools are kinda limited, if i were to use 2.5" to clear the compressor how would i flare it out to mate with the 3"?
ill try and get a pic of the manifold and stuff on the engine so u can see how it all lays out and then u can let me know how difficult u think itll be
This is getting MIG welded and tools are kinda limited, if i were to use 2.5" to clear the compressor how would i flare it out to mate with the 3"?
ill try and get a pic of the manifold and stuff on the engine so u can see how it all lays out and then u can let me know how difficult u think itll be
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Re: (turbotime)
[QUOTE=turbotime]ok now my dp is MILD steel, the only flex sections are SS, can MILD be welded to SS?
Yes, you can weld mild steel to Stainless with no problem
Yes, you can weld mild steel to Stainless with no problem
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Re: (aallbbeerrtttttt)
you should have plenty of room to run just a 180 bend, if it doesnt fit just cheat it a little its not going to make that much of a difference, but if you are **** retentive go with piecuts
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chassis shops sell mandrel bends in tighter bends than sold on keteller?
i was just gonna buy the 2 180s and a straight off kteller and hope i can snake it...
i was just gonna buy the 2 180s and a straight off kteller and hope i can snake it...
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yes you will be able to weld mild to stainless, it will rust though but obviously thats not a concern. just weld it with either 309L or with mig, either way it will work just fine.
you might need to pie cut a little bit there, but it shouldn't be too major, 6" is quite a bit of clearance. so long as you don't have a huge reducer sticking off the flange first.
you might need to pie cut a little bit there, but it shouldn't be too major, 6" is quite a bit of clearance. so long as you don't have a huge reducer sticking off the flange first.
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Re: (Turbo-charged)
Just do what I did...2.5" with a flare to 3" under the oil pan. You may have trouble/have to crush some of the tubing anyways to get the bolts on there with the 3" piece.
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yeah i think im gonna have to got with 2.5"-3" flare for the first part so it flows well...
Where can i get a mild steel 2.5"-3" flare? Or if i need to get the 2.5" flared who could do it? I want it to be a clean flare...
thanks!
Where can i get a mild steel 2.5"-3" flare? Or if i need to get the 2.5" flared who could do it? I want it to be a clean flare...
thanks!