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3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends?

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Old 04-12-2006, 08:36 AM
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Default 3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends?

I ma getting ready to order teh bends to make my new downpipe. It is 3" and needs to be ac/ps compatible. I dont have anything to reference and was wondering what bend i will need to make this work? I was thinking 3 180 degree bends and 1 straight, will that be enough bends? if not then what will i need?

Thanks
Old 04-12-2006, 08:36 AM
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Default Re: 3" ac/ps downpipe for eg with bseries - what bends? (turbotime)

you should only need 2 180's and one straight and dont forget a flex section
Old 04-12-2006, 08:40 AM
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ok now my dp is MILD steel, the only flex sections are SS, can MILD be welded to SS?

Sorry i have 0 welding knowledge
other than knowing the diff between MIG and TIG
Old 04-12-2006, 08:42 AM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

lol most turbo manifolds have mild flanges and stainless runners so i think you're fine
Old 04-12-2006, 08:43 AM
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hehe ok sweet so just 2 180s and a striaght and a flex... nice, and that will be ps/ac compatible? (big factor for me)
Old 04-12-2006, 08:45 AM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

well how you route it et cetera will determine if it is a/c compatible, if you think the 180 bend isnt tight enough get an extra section of straight pipe and make the bend using pie-cuts
Old 04-12-2006, 08:49 AM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

Well what manifold are you using? There are very few manifolds that are fabbed up with the intent for a 3" DP to retain AC.

Unless the manifold states so... you might be using a 2.5" transitioned to 3" downpipe.
Old 04-12-2006, 08:52 AM
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Default Re: (Soccerking3000)

you can do it with one 180degree bend and some pie cuts.
Old 04-12-2006, 08:54 AM
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im using the revhard manifold which is really similar to the DRAG manifold as far as how it places the turbo... the manifold is ac/ps compatible

ill just get 2 180s and a straight and a flex, and since the manifold is ac/ps compatible i dont think itll be too tight to fit a 3" in whatddya think?
Old 04-12-2006, 09:02 AM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

you won't be able to do it with just the bends. your gonna need to have a bunch of little pie cuts. it gonna be really tight. and one of your mount bolt will probably be really hard to get in
Old 04-12-2006, 09:05 AM
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i think if i cut a 90 bend at 45 degrees i can prolly snake it past the ac compressor.... the draw dp was hard to get to all the bolts but it had plenty of rom clearning teh ac compressor
Old 04-12-2006, 12:22 PM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

It's gonna be rough... any manifold (unless it's stated AC Compatible w/3" DP) won't fit with a full 3" DP. Even with Pie cuts it's a huge challenge without angleing or denting the bend to clear the compressor. And at that point a 2.5" bend from the turbo may flow better than the superangled 3" DP.

If you are getting this custom fabbed you're best bet is to use a 2.5" bend and expand it to 3" as soon as you can.

Face it: you gotta pay to play... Either with your wallet or with taking out the creature features.
Old 04-12-2006, 12:37 PM
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i hear ya!

This is getting MIG welded and tools are kinda limited, if i were to use 2.5" to clear the compressor how would i flare it out to mate with the 3"?

ill try and get a pic of the manifold and stuff on the engine so u can see how it all lays out and then u can let me know how difficult u think itll be
Old 04-12-2006, 03:59 PM
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ok here are some pics, i think there is plenty of room now that i see it together, what do you think?




Old 04-12-2006, 04:08 PM
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Default Re: (turbotime)

[QUOTE=turbotime]ok now my dp is MILD steel, the only flex sections are SS, can MILD be welded to SS?

Yes, you can weld mild steel to Stainless with no problem
Old 04-12-2006, 04:12 PM
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with MIG? what about the clearances?
Old 04-12-2006, 08:39 PM
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buuuump
Old 04-12-2006, 10:11 PM
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Default Re: (aallbbeerrtttttt)

you should have plenty of room to run just a 180 bend, if it doesnt fit just cheat it a little its not going to make that much of a difference, but if you are **** retentive go with piecuts
Old 04-12-2006, 11:28 PM
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Default Re: (Soccerking3000)

could also go to chassis shop and get a sharp 90 or a full donut if needed
Old 04-13-2006, 07:46 AM
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chassis shops sell mandrel bends in tighter bends than sold on keteller?

i was just gonna buy the 2 180s and a straight off kteller and hope i can snake it...
Old 04-13-2006, 04:29 PM
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yes you will be able to weld mild to stainless, it will rust though but obviously thats not a concern. just weld it with either 309L or with mig, either way it will work just fine.

you might need to pie cut a little bit there, but it shouldn't be too major, 6" is quite a bit of clearance. so long as you don't have a huge reducer sticking off the flange first.
Old 04-13-2006, 04:36 PM
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Default Re: (cua0)

thats plenty of room...if you plan ahead you even have enough room to make all the bolts easy to get in and out
Old 04-13-2006, 05:00 PM
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Default Re: (Turbo-charged)

Just do what I did...2.5" with a flare to 3" under the oil pan. You may have trouble/have to crush some of the tubing anyways to get the bolts on there with the 3" piece.
Old 04-13-2006, 07:14 PM
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yeah i think im gonna have to got with 2.5"-3" flare for the first part so it flows well...

Where can i get a mild steel 2.5"-3" flare? Or if i need to get the 2.5" flared who could do it? I want it to be a clean flare...

thanks!
Old 04-13-2006, 09:03 PM
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